I get tornadoes and hurricanes at our Orange Beach house.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (40 Viewers)
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I need some advice.
I am trying to figure out a cost-effective way to deal with dried up PPC film on the hood, fenders and mirrors. The hood also have a large patch where the paint appears burnt up. The two options I have are:
1) Pay a body shop to strip and repaint the hood and fenders. cost ~ $1500
2) Pay a restoration guy to chemically strip/use an eraser wheel to remove the PPC and do 3 stage paint correction and live with the burn mark. cost ~ $800
I plan to keep the truck long term (don't we all?) and want to get it done right. My first preference is to keep the original paint but the burnt mark is giving me second thoughts. What do you suggest?
I am trying to figure out a cost-effective way to deal with dried up PPC film on the hood, fenders and mirrors. The hood also have a large patch where the paint appears burnt up. The two options I have are:
1) Pay a body shop to strip and repaint the hood and fenders. cost ~ $1500
2) Pay a restoration guy to chemically strip/use an eraser wheel to remove the PPC and do 3 stage paint correction and live with the burn mark. cost ~ $800
I plan to keep the truck long term (don't we all?) and want to get it done right. My first preference is to keep the original paint but the burnt mark is giving me second thoughts. What do you suggest?
I think you're gonna wind up needing paint no matter what. If you have a solid detail guy, they can get the old film off with the minimum of damage and then correct as best they can what's there under it, but that mirror has primer/ urethane showing, the clearcoat is failing on the hood at that discolored spot, and what's left under the old film is TBD once they can get it off. If all the rest of the paint on the truck is just fantastically great, probably pay the money to get it all correct, wax it up nice, and keep it good for the long haul. Would be a buy once cry once scenario.
For me, taking the other route: My clear's already gone/ totally failed on all my upper horizontal surfaces, so I'm just gonna plastidip the whole car once I correct a couple little dents and square up some stuff that needs attention (new windshield, for example). I'd be into a real repaint for almost as much as I paid for the truck, and I'm not that worried about it. If I get rich I'll peel it off and do it "correctly," but chances are good I'll just get bored and shoot another color over it.
I realize there is a big difference in decals. I had a bad TRD decal on my Tacoma when I bought it. I used a 3M eraser wheel to grind off the old decal.
I tried many approaches before finding the eraser wheel that finally did the job. It just takes a lot of time and patience not to burn the paint.
Lots of dust and some ghosting remained from fading in the hot TX sun.
Used some Turtle Bug and Tar foaming remover to remove any remaining decal residue.
It didn't look bad when I was done.. You can still see a little bit of the red TRD ghost.
I tried many approaches before finding the eraser wheel that finally did the job. It just takes a lot of time and patience not to burn the paint.
Lots of dust and some ghosting remained from fading in the hot TX sun.
Used some Turtle Bug and Tar foaming remover to remove any remaining decal residue.
It didn't look bad when I was done.. You can still see a little bit of the red TRD ghost.
3. Truck Bed Liner the whole thang
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Where you get that at?
Might be a good time to price out a wrap in the color you always wanted.
JakeTheSnakeNH
GOLD Star
Adjusted a saggy driver side door that wasn’t quite aligned with the striker and would lift up slightly every time I shut it.
Made quick work of it thanks to the info in this thread:
forum.ih8mud.com
And in particular the link for this handy little tool from Amazon:
Door Hinge Screw Remove Wrench... Amazon product ASIN B06Y3MNYZ1
Made quick work of it thanks to the info in this thread:
Sagging Driver Door. Adjust, fix, or replace hinges?
Hi, The drivers side door took some damage at some point. I'm guessing it was hung on and now when I close the door, it needs to be "lifted" to close properly. Symptoms: -Loose door at hinges. No obvious damage, but bolts seem tight. I can List the door and see movement at the hinges. -Hits...
forum.ih8mud.com
And in particular the link for this handy little tool from Amazon:
Door Hinge Screw Remove Wrench... Amazon product ASIN B06Y3MNYZ1
mdcoa
SILVER Star
Noticed this on Saturday during my whether-it-needs-it-or-not semiannual waxing of the LC. Not sure when it fell off—it was there when we got back from recent camp/off-road trip...
$80 and 1 minute of labor later, so much better...
$80 and 1 minute of labor later, so much better...
Thanks. the rest of the truck's paint is not too bad. Clear coat is all intact and if doesn't have any gouges or big scratches.
Thanks, Someone else has suggested this before. The detailing/restoration guy is pricing it to take about 8 hours to remove!!
Thanks for the thought - but this one, I am trying to keep pretty!
You know, I have never been a fan of wraps and I think the rest of the truck is in pretty good condition to consider something as drastic as that!
Rigged up a DYI sleeping/storage platform based on one I saw in an old for sale on here. 3/4" red oak plywood 43x52. Secured to 2x4s cut 43" long connected with 3/4" pipe 6" length and pipe mounts. Width 2x4s at 52".
Sits ~10" high so flush enough with backseat folded once over.
$150 a la Home Depot.
Sits ~10" high so flush enough with backseat folded once over.
$150 a la Home Depot.
How come the one on the right looks angry?
It was either wash it or wheel it. Wheeling buddy said she thinks it looks better dusty anyway. Trail was dry all the way to the top!
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
It’s a jeep thing....
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Charcoal canister, vapor canister purge solenoid, all the hose clamps, and patched up some wiring from an unwanted visitor while I was at work on the oil rig.
Just got done installing an alternator, radiator, Ts, battery cables ends, various vacuum lines, dual battery system and Slee dual mount, various lines, hoses,
wiring clips and now on to full brake job with new rotors/bearings/seals all the way around, new calipers, new ceramic pads, new stainless brake lines,
and G=d only knows what else,,,due to turning one bolt and find something else that needs addressing. I figure it comes from being an idiot and letting it sit for way to long....,I hate bad finances. After that will come interior clean up and then onto building a drawer system for the back.
wiring clips and now on to full brake job with new rotors/bearings/seals all the way around, new calipers, new ceramic pads, new stainless brake lines,
and G=d only knows what else,,,due to turning one bolt and find something else that needs addressing. I figure it comes from being an idiot and letting it sit for way to long....,I hate bad finances. After that will come interior clean up and then onto building a drawer system for the back.
