What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (18 Viewers)

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The joints I pumped until I saw fresh bright red grease. Those slip yokes though were worrying me. It's not hard to get to them. Front is harder, but would only take 15 minutes to get back under there. I thought I had read somewhere that you could over grease those yokes. That's what was in the back of my mind. Maybe someone else will chime in too.
Yeah U joints easy as and agree about yokes 20x harder. Not much comprehensive info around about what is happening in the yokes when greasing them. I gather the reason is like you mentioned 'you can over grease them'. Also figured the force from driving would just push the extra grease out anyway. I had a fair few big flicks of grease on some tubing and stuff when I looked underneath after driving. Will take a clean rag and some waax&grease or acetone to it 2moz.

I think its a dirty job more than anything ! wasted so much good grease on the front yoke ! went all over the place lol
 
Finished the last of the sound proofing. Secondskin luxury liner pro. Getting closer to wrapping up this build
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Then I installed the Dobinson’s drawers.

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K so kept pumpin grease came out after 50 so pumps. Back yoke was black as. Kept pumpin until I could see clean blue . Funny thing is after pumping until I saw clean it seemed to completely seal up again .. weird

50 pumps oh my, some will say you have a ticking time bomb... but the forum is split in opinion about this so you should be good.. i like to pump until i see new grease as well pumped 20 times when first got it, don't think it had ever been done.
 
Took the rig on a fantastic 200 mile gravel route around the Texas hill country. Everything was great..,.until my alternator crapped out. Barely made it home as the battery fell from 13.4 volts to 10.8 volts. It was holding steady at 13.7-13.8 for the entire trip (as it always does). But, when it started dropping, it went quick and battery warning light kicked on. Had battery tested and it tested like new. Charged right up in an hour. Plugged it back in the rig and watched the voltage on my Scangauge bouncing between 13.7-14.6 before finally starting the slow descent down to 12.8. I shut it down and am now considering my alternator options. The original lasted 22 years and nearly 250k.

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I upgraded mine to the Tundra/Sequoia alternator 130 or 150amp vs stock 90amp (?). Just need to replace the connector to the alternator (P/N: 90980-11964). If you running extra electrical stuff good to have the extra amperage available (ie sound system, LED light bars, winch, etc...).
 
I gently kissed and caressed the steering wheel then whispered "you motherf***er" when it softly clunked going into reverse.

That may not be the most effective way of dealing with a driveline "clunk", but it is one way of dealing with it, and it is pretty inexpensive too.
 
Looking better by the day.

Before/After:
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Waiting on the epoxy to cure on the front two door lock actuators. Read stories about people's assemblies popping open or allowing water ingress so I'm taking no chances. Went with a marine grade epoxy and am also gonna ziptie them.

Passenger motor looked fine, but the driver side looked alot more like I expected. Old motors left, new motors right. Amazing the difference such a cheap fix can make.

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Finished the last of the sound proofing. Secondskin luxury liner pro. Getting closer to wrapping up this build View attachment 2307983

Then I installed the Dobinson’s drawers.

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Those Dobinsons drawers look the part for sure. I have had my KISS drawers for quite some time, but am considering something like the Dobinsons. How would you rate them? Does either top slide out? Also, the sound deadening.....worth it?
 
Torsion Bars....hahahahaha.....torsion bars. You AZ people don’t know how good you’ve got it. I cut that mother lover out, and proceedeView attachment 2308286View attachment 2308287View attachment 2308288d to put a 3” hole in my driveway driving one end off. The other end may be a goner, PB can only do so much.
Man, I grew up in NY(salt country, western) and am now out west in Bay Area...My cruiser was a one owner that spent its summers in Bend Oregon then Highway miles to winter in Arizona., currently sitting at 284K miles....a world away from Rochester cars!
 
Man, I grew up in NY(salt country, western) and am now out west in Bay Area...My cruiser was a one owner that spent its summers in Bend Oregon then Highway miles to winter in Arizona., currently sitting at 284K miles....a world away from Rochester cars!
You should totally move back to the salty fun, dig deep, challenge yourself and stuff! None of that fair weather west coast livn, yuck. lol.
 
So for the past two days I have been crawling around under this thing cleaning up and doing general maintenance. I have had this rig for a year and it has 189k miles on it. I just found this. I assume it's the key that is supposed to go in the glove box

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Yep. If you want to start the car with it, you need to use both parts, the security "chip" for the immobilizer is in the "holder", and you probably should keep it in your wallet (not the glove box).
 
You should totally move back to the salty fun, dig deep, challenge yourself and stuff! None of that fair weather west coast livn, yuck. lol.
I love the Ethos!

to be honest its not all wine and roses out here...I left a ski area being only half an hour away...versus 4-6 hours(depending on Bay Area Kooks driving up to Tahoe)...and the cost O Livin' is ridiculous...The best part is the clean cars!

I've got my eye on Bend as a final destination....but going back to NY? or even New England? probably not...I dream of finding an old 911 that I can afford and driving that and the LC...
 
Yep. If you want to start the car with it, you need to use both parts, the security "chip" for the immobilizer is in the "holder", and you probably should keep it in your wallet (not the glove box).
Curious- that is an LX thing only? Or was it also included with LC? My LC is an '01
Great buried treasure find!
 
Curious- that is an LX thing only? Or was it also included with LC? My LC is an '01
Great buried treasure find!

I'm pretty sure this was LX (short blade) only.

Someone could probably come up with a home-brew equivalent for the LC with the proper "chip" and a metal key.
 
I found the source of the front end clunk I would experience when on washboard roads. The driver's side frame bushing for the lower control arm was toast. I could easily move it an inch any direction with a small pry bar. The replacement Super Pro bushings are very beefy and should improve the ride.

I removed any rust and painted the driver's side LCA this morning, waiting for it to dry. Tomorrow I will reassemble everything, check the index on my tbars and take it for a drive. Can't wait! This has been quite the load of work.

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