I have exactly these two things to do. Parts sitting in garage. (TT skids amd slee extended brake lines.) Any insight or tips?
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (50 Viewers)
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I have exactly these two things to do. Parts sitting in garage. (TT skids amd slee extended brake lines.) Any insight or tips?
Get the special brakeline wrenches......
Use nytril gloves, that fluid can be absorbed thru the skin, dispose of at autozone etc
Losen the brakeline before undoing the factory clips, makes it easier than if they are twisting in the wind
Bleed with a friend, check for leaks
Skids are pretty easy, pay attention to the left and rights side. (Not like me)
Use a ratchet strap from the axle to something like a slider arm when you take out the original bolts and the new ones just slide in. (Other folks mentioned similar approaches)
Actually got around to a lot of small projects this weekend.
First up, replacing heater tees. Went to pop one out and it broke..... so good thing I changed them out. BTW, my cruiser is a 2001 with 175K on it. Went a bit over the top with the replacements. Stainless Tees and constant torque breeze clamps. Pro tip, get a hose clamp tool and hose hook too. Made everything so much easier. Here are the links to all the parts I used:
- Stainless Heater Tees
- Hose Clamp Pliers
- Breeze Clamps
- Hose hooks
Second, finally put on the hood blackout from the group buy. Was surprised how easy it was to put on. Hardest part was popping off the windshield spray nozzles. Pro tip, use an old credit card to pry up a bit and push in the clips from the top side of the hood.
Last item of business was to fix the trim. Mine was flaking bad. Always wanted to give Plasti Dip a try. Figured there was nothing to loose since you can remove it. Went with the Dupli-Color brand since it matched the stock color pretty closely and it was metallic. It is as easy as all the videos show. Tried two masking methods. 1) index cards and precise taping (top of trim). 2) Masking 1" from trim and allowing over spray (bottom of trim). Both methods work, but the over spray method worked perfect and was super easy. After it all dries, just peel away the over spray and it leaves a perfect line. Was actually really impressed with the Plasti Dip. Looks pretty close to stock and the metallic looks like normal paint. I did 5 coats of the metallic and 2 coats of clear coat. We'll see how it holds up.
First up, replacing heater tees. Went to pop one out and it broke..... so good thing I changed them out. BTW, my cruiser is a 2001 with 175K on it. Went a bit over the top with the replacements. Stainless Tees and constant torque breeze clamps. Pro tip, get a hose clamp tool and hose hook too. Made everything so much easier. Here are the links to all the parts I used:
- Stainless Heater Tees
- Hose Clamp Pliers
- Breeze Clamps
- Hose hooks
Second, finally put on the hood blackout from the group buy. Was surprised how easy it was to put on. Hardest part was popping off the windshield spray nozzles. Pro tip, use an old credit card to pry up a bit and push in the clips from the top side of the hood.
Last item of business was to fix the trim. Mine was flaking bad. Always wanted to give Plasti Dip a try. Figured there was nothing to loose since you can remove it. Went with the Dupli-Color brand since it matched the stock color pretty closely and it was metallic. It is as easy as all the videos show. Tried two masking methods. 1) index cards and precise taping (top of trim). 2) Masking 1" from trim and allowing over spray (bottom of trim). Both methods work, but the over spray method worked perfect and was super easy. After it all dries, just peel away the over spray and it leaves a perfect line. Was actually really impressed with the Plasti Dip. Looks pretty close to stock and the metallic looks like normal paint. I did 5 coats of the metallic and 2 coats of clear coat. We'll see how it holds up.
Maintenance and TLC on my new-to-me 2000 w/ 208k on the clock. Been a nice long bonding weekend with the 'ol gal.
-Oil (M1 Syn 5W-30 High mileage and M1 20k mile filter).
-Changed front/rear diff fluids (Amsoil)
-Changed transfer case fluid (Amsoil)
-Greased front/rear shafts at slide yokes and spiders (Amsoil)...side note: No more clunk/thunk when I stop!
-New Heater T's, went ahead and got all new OEM T's and hoses. If it lasted 200k it will last another 200k with stock components.
-Drained 2 qts transmission fluid (all I could get out) and replaced with M1 Syn ATF
-New Intertstate Mega-Tron battery
-New Spark Plugs (Donso's)
-New Subs in the back (Dayton Audio 4" aluminum) Sounds pretty good! Better than what it was and was cheap enough to try.
-Conditioned all leather (Lexol conditioner). My leather was in really good shape considering age but just feels to much softer now.
If you need incentive to change your spark plugs sooner than 200k miles then here's evidence. Note the plug second from the right-it has seen better days. It came out of the third cylinder from the front-passenger side. With the new Denso's in there is a noticeable performance improvement!
Had to modify the stock box to fit the new subs. May not look pretty but its an airtight fit that gets the job done. They actually sound pretty good for less than $20 each-at least better than what the 17 year old stock subs were putting out these days. Not up to the sound quality I would like it to be but my whole sound system needs a major overhaul-future project.
Finally, used Meguire's Headlight Restoration Kit on the front turn signal housings and fog lights. Night and day. Ive used this stuff on numerous cars and it always turns out great. Not a permanent fix but definitely worth the ~$20 for the kit. Usually lasts about 6 months until they start looking a little foggy again-then just do it again. Still cheaper than buying new lenses Here's a little before/after:
-Oil (M1 Syn 5W-30 High mileage and M1 20k mile filter).
-Changed front/rear diff fluids (Amsoil)
-Changed transfer case fluid (Amsoil)
-Greased front/rear shafts at slide yokes and spiders (Amsoil)...side note: No more clunk/thunk when I stop!
-New Heater T's, went ahead and got all new OEM T's and hoses. If it lasted 200k it will last another 200k with stock components.
-Drained 2 qts transmission fluid (all I could get out) and replaced with M1 Syn ATF
-New Intertstate Mega-Tron battery
-New Spark Plugs (Donso's)
-New Subs in the back (Dayton Audio 4" aluminum) Sounds pretty good! Better than what it was and was cheap enough to try.
-Conditioned all leather (Lexol conditioner). My leather was in really good shape considering age but just feels to much softer now.
If you need incentive to change your spark plugs sooner than 200k miles then here's evidence. Note the plug second from the right-it has seen better days. It came out of the third cylinder from the front-passenger side. With the new Denso's in there is a noticeable performance improvement!
Had to modify the stock box to fit the new subs. May not look pretty but its an airtight fit that gets the job done. They actually sound pretty good for less than $20 each-at least better than what the 17 year old stock subs were putting out these days. Not up to the sound quality I would like it to be but my whole sound system needs a major overhaul-future project.
Finally, used Meguire's Headlight Restoration Kit on the front turn signal housings and fog lights. Night and day. Ive used this stuff on numerous cars and it always turns out great. Not a permanent fix but definitely worth the ~$20 for the kit. Usually lasts about 6 months until they start looking a little foggy again-then just do it again. Still cheaper than buying new lenses
Here's a little before/after:
I did the Dayton's too. They aren't going to win any bass competitions, but they sound way better than the factory ones. And they're cheap.
Maintenance and TLC on my new-to-me 2000 w/ 208k on the clock. Been a nice long bonding weekend with the 'ol gal.
-Oil (M1 Syn 5W-30 High mileage and M1 20k mile filter).
-Changed front/rear diff fluids (Amsoil)
-Changed transfer case fluid (Amsoil)
-Greased front/rear shafts at slide yokes and spiders (Amsoil)...side note: No more clunk/thunk when I stop!
-New Heater T's, went ahead and got all new OEM T's and hoses. If it lasted 200k it will last another 200k with stock components.
-Drained 2 qts transmission fluid (all I could get out) and replaced with M1 Syn ATF
-New Intertstate Mega-Tron battery
-New Spark Plugs (Donso's)
-New Subs in the back (Dayton Audio 4" aluminum) Sounds pretty good! Better than what it was and was cheap enough to try.
-Conditioned all leather (Lexol conditioner). My leather was in really good shape considering age but just feels to much softer now.
If you need incentive to change your spark plugs sooner than 200k miles then here's evidence. Note the plug second from the right-it has seen better days. It came out of the third cylinder from the front-passenger side. With the new Denso's in there is a noticeable performance improvement!
View attachment 1468878
Had to modify the stock box to fit the new subs. May not look pretty but its an airtight fit that gets the job done. They actually sound pretty good for less than $20 each-at least better than what the 17 year old stock subs were putting out these days. Not up to the sound quality I would like it to be but my whole sound system needs a major overhaul-future project.
View attachment 1468880
Finally, used Meguire's Headlight Restoration Kit on the front turn signal housings and fog lights. Night and day. Ive used this stuff on numerous cars and it always turns out great. Not a permanent fix but definitely worth the ~$20 for the kit. Usually lasts about 6 months until they start looking a little foggy again-then just do it again. Still cheaper than buying new lenses
View attachment 1468881
View attachment 1468882
View attachment 1468883
De-chroming.
I went with a gunmetal color, as opposed to the popular black.
I went with a gunmetal color, as opposed to the popular black.
Great look - how is the front? How did you de-chrome and what type of paint did you use, or is that plasti-dip?
I haven't gotten to the front yet, I'm building a Satoshi grill for it.
I used plasti dip. Silver metallic over black base.
Maintenance and TLC on my new-to-me 2000 w/ 208k on the clock. Been a nice long bonding weekend with the 'ol gal.
-Oil (M1 Syn 5W-30 High mileage and M1 20k mile filter).
-Changed front/rear diff fluids (Amsoil)
-Changed transfer case fluid (Amsoil)
-Greased front/rear shafts at slide yokes and spiders (Amsoil)...side note: No more clunk/thunk when I stop!
-New Heater T's, went ahead and got all new OEM T's and hoses. If it lasted 200k it will last another 200k with stock components.
-Drained 2 qts transmission fluid (all I could get out) and replaced with M1 Syn ATF
-New Intertstate Mega-Tron battery
-New Spark Plugs (Donso's)
-New Subs in the back (Dayton Audio 4" aluminum) Sounds pretty good! Better than what it was and was cheap enough to try.
-Conditioned all leather (Lexol conditioner). My leather was in really good shape considering age but just feels to much softer now.
If you need incentive to change your spark plugs sooner than 200k miles then here's evidence. Note the plug second from the right-it has seen better days. It came out of the third cylinder from the front-passenger side. With the new Denso's in there is a noticeable performance improvement!
View attachment 1468878
Had to modify the stock box to fit the new subs. May not look pretty but its an airtight fit that gets the job done. They actually sound pretty good for less than $20 each-at least better than what the 17 year old stock subs were putting out these days. Not up to the sound quality I would like it to be but my whole sound system needs a major overhaul-future project.
View attachment 1468880
Finally, used Meguire's Headlight Restoration Kit on the front turn signal housings and fog lights. Night and day. Ive used this stuff on numerous cars and it always turns out great. Not a permanent fix but definitely worth the ~$20 for the kit. Usually lasts about 6 months until they start looking a little foggy again-then just do it again. Still cheaper than buying new lenses
View attachment 1468881
View attachment 1468882
View attachment 1468883
did you port that box? that might be where your bass went.
I'd love to see the Satoshi grill when done. Maybe see build pics.
The big one is for beer, right?
You're just flaunting that thing all over the place huh.....haha. Admittedly I will too when I get mine back from PC and installed. Looking at it never gets old.....truly a piece of art.
Had the stock one already there. Notice the first hole on the left in the pic....my thirst for more bass is hard to quench
A lot of this. 1100+ miles to McAllen, TX and back for 3 days riding motorcycles in Mexico. This thing is so great for taking a long road trip. After 3 days on a dirt bike, it felt so luxurious on the drive home.
Bought a new radiator cap. Should have purchased a new one when I change the radiator a few weeks ago.
What headlights are those?
