Lookin good my friendWent from this....
to this...
The 3M kit works really well with a cordless drill (at low RPM of course). I've been skeptical of these kits only because I'm not sure how long the supplied protectant/UV coating will last, but I'll keep my eyes on them. Other than that the results are pretty good considering it wasn't much work at all. My lights were far from the worst I've seen but I'm OCD so it had been bugging me for a while.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (52 Viewers)
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Emu wings? Anyone investigated using the existing glass and using the whole towards the back of the vehicle for the lock? Drill holes in the top edge for the hinges and add a strut.
This is what I was wondering the hinges could probably be modified or swapped to open further and replace the motor mechanism that pops them out the 2 inches with some kind of latch system and you could have side opening windows.
I agree. I prefer top hinge but you are correct.
I would remove side hinges, remove rear motor mechanism, replace with turning lock. Add strip of metal across the top of glass on the interior with adhesive, attach hinges to metal strip. Attach strip of metal down the side that has the hinges now with adhesive, attach strut. Done.
If adhesive does not work add a c channel metal around inside and outside of glass, like put the glass in a metal channel for the strut and top hinge to secure to.
This to That (Glue Advice)
I would remove side hinges, remove rear motor mechanism, replace with turning lock. Add strip of metal across the top of glass on the interior with adhesive, attach hinges to metal strip. Attach strip of metal down the side that has the hinges now with adhesive, attach strut. Done.
If adhesive does not work add a c channel metal around inside and outside of glass, like put the glass in a metal channel for the strut and top hinge to secure to.
This to That (Glue Advice)
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You cannot use the stock glass. Its tempered glass it will shatter at any attempt in drilling. The top hinges need two 3/4" holes per hinge to mount. Emuwings uses safety glass.
The window is so long I don't think the narrow hinge on the side would hold the weight comfortably. Also any hit from the top would shatter the window with that much edge and swing out you would be leaving the tempered glass for open to a lot of vulnerability. While a good idea I think it would not work. Plus there is not much room between the body and the outer edge or the window crease literally 1/4 of an inch. Adding c-chanels metal trim and epoxy would put the edge of the glass outside of the quarter panel bend exposing the glass and also possibly making a whistle sound while driving. The Emuwing set up was thoughtful and precise it leaves the glass flush with the body and allows for up,down, side/side adjustments.
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cruzerDave
Land Shark Outfitters
Made a 'turn-dome-light-off-while-tailgate-is-open' thingy per suggestion by someone in a thread somewhere I wish I could give credit to. Worked great while camping for the last 5 days, and I always knew where my bottle opener was!
Thank you for the feedback. Just hate wasting parts!
I did read that there is no way to drill.
I did read that there is no way to drill.
Well the thing is you can't drill tempered glass, you can drill safety glass. Once glass is tempered it cannot be punctured it will shatter in millions of pieces. Anyone beg to differ to keep me honest but that's what I understand. Stock glass was probably drilled for the tilt hole and tempered after.
Yes, absolutely no drilling. I am thinking of taking mine apart and seeing if there is a solution. The metal strip epoxed to inside glass would allow for the adjustments, left and right and up and down. Another thought is get super mcgruber and some how use the grab handle attachment points that would be further into the vehicle for the hinge attachment points.
Gotta pull the top half of the roof pillar trim all the way around, plus some trim bits like dome lights and seatbelts. Pain in the ass job and not sure how much more of a PITA it'd be with rear AC... I pulled it when I replaced my sunroof cables a few years ago, see pic.
In other news, bought another set of wheels and sent them out to have them powder coated, plus I wire wheeled some minor rust on my rear axle and repainted. And on top of that, I had two new key shells cut at my local hardware store.
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Theoretically the rear glass is already on a hinge on one side, I would only try to extent the range of this hinge so it swings out more. Honestly sure not how its limited, if the limit is only the mechanism on the other side then it may already swing out more than the few inches if just disconnected from the mechanism. Also there is already a hole in the glass at the back where the mechanism attaches to. The trick would be to reuse this point as part of the latch system. Again all of this is speculation behind my desk here as am not home to look closely at the existing system.
You can sell the old glass probably for a couple of hundred for both pieces. I saw a guy at home depot with a broken one from a baseball game.
. You may have to keep listing it until some unlucky person gets a busted window. That's what I'm going to do store the stock glass and list it for sale until someone needs it.
Built an attic/dog net
Drove my 100 series five hours each way to pick up this near-mint 2006 4Runner. Bought it from a Toyota Service Manager, it's been babied!
Drove my '98 7 hours each way from Albuquerque NM to Windsor, CO and back to get my new rear bumper installed by its maker, Mike at Bump It Off Road.
My front bumper was made by Ben at Dissent. I stopped by his workshop in California last year and had Ben install that one, and that worked out very well. He installed and tested the winch and the lights at the same time, and they have all worked perfectly ever since:
I get a lot of comments about it, in fact I had only been in Colorado yesterday for less than half an hour when, stopped at a gas pump, another random guy came running up to tell me how he thought my front bumper was "totally badass", and the best he had ever seen.
Meanwhile my stock rear bumper had been dragged through New Mexico mud, rocks and brush to the point where it threatened at times to fall off:
Note the repeatedly bent out of position trailer hook-up plug, dragged through deep sand most recently at the White Pocket in Arizona:
I had ordered one of Ben's new Dissent rear bumpers several months ago, but I backed out after he decided it would not support keeping the spare in the original OEM position. At that point Mike's BIOR bumper seemed to suit me best, and Ben graciously helped us out matching the powder coat color to the one he had used on my front bumper. So at 8.00am this morning, after the 500-mile drive the day before, I pitched up with my long-suffering dog Oscar at Mike's workshop in Windsor:
and he went to work on the rig...
I don't recall what I said right before I took that picture that was so amusing.
Mike soon had the job done, and I'm very happy with the result; also with the added weight, which after removal of my stock bumper and trailer hitch was close to zero, (and with the price):
Oscar and I drove the remaining 500 miles and returned safely to Albuquerque this evening.
My front bumper was made by Ben at Dissent. I stopped by his workshop in California last year and had Ben install that one, and that worked out very well. He installed and tested the winch and the lights at the same time, and they have all worked perfectly ever since:
I get a lot of comments about it, in fact I had only been in Colorado yesterday for less than half an hour when, stopped at a gas pump, another random guy came running up to tell me how he thought my front bumper was "totally badass", and the best he had ever seen.
Meanwhile my stock rear bumper had been dragged through New Mexico mud, rocks and brush to the point where it threatened at times to fall off:
Note the repeatedly bent out of position trailer hook-up plug, dragged through deep sand most recently at the White Pocket in Arizona:
I had ordered one of Ben's new Dissent rear bumpers several months ago, but I backed out after he decided it would not support keeping the spare in the original OEM position. At that point Mike's BIOR bumper seemed to suit me best, and Ben graciously helped us out matching the powder coat color to the one he had used on my front bumper. So at 8.00am this morning, after the 500-mile drive the day before, I pitched up with my long-suffering dog Oscar at Mike's workshop in Windsor:
and he went to work on the rig...
I don't recall what I said right before I took that picture that was so amusing.
Mike soon had the job done, and I'm very happy with the result; also with the added weight, which after removal of my stock bumper and trailer hitch was close to zero, (and with the price):
Oscar and I drove the remaining 500 miles and returned safely to Albuquerque this evening.
2001LC
SILVER Star
You putting deadener on wheel wells?
What's that white plastic box behind PS wheel well?
What's that white plastic box behind PS wheel well?
Yes wheel wells and inside rear quarter panels and on the roof. That box is the rear a/c unit. If you look close it looks like there use to be a sound deadening material between the a/c box and the fender and disintegrated over time putting some back in there as well.
