What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (29 Viewers)

[lets_go_red]

Could we get details (ahem..cost) and a sound clip of the exhaust mod?

Oh and I installed a TJM bull bar and Hella lights (from ntsaint) havent wired the lights in yet. Looks awesome

Here is a link to a short sound clip I recorded with the phone. This is EMS mid pipes with dual cats and the EMS cat back with silencer option. Took my tome and it only took me a bit over 4 hours to get it installed by myself.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6w8b48wx946234k/Memo.m4a

 

[rvrats2]

Four hours to Slee twenty minutes to buy and load four hours back home. Picked up my step sliders for the 2000 LC. So easy to deal with them. Love it. Should get them on this weekend. Hope to get diff fluids and power steering flush done too. Can't wait for the high country to open.

 

[jonharis]

^NICE! That's dedication.

 

[PIPO]

Installed the cabin air filters.

 

[rvrats2]

^NICE! That's dedication.

I think it was cheaper than shipping. I rarely go to Denver so I made a day of it. Free frame cleaning from the heavy rain, and snow over vail pass/Eisenhower. Jon, even though you're broken I want to come down and drive western co with you guys. I'm close.

 

[DeltaT]

I had a strange noise coming from the left rear when driving very slowly. It sounded like an exhaust or heat shield rattle. It turned out to be a small rock that was stuck between my rear disk brake and the protective metal cover.
This morning I tried to take off my wheel but no matter what I tried, I couldn't get it off. Removing the bolts was not an issue, but the wheel seemed to be fused to the axle. I had to go to a different shop where I finally managed to remove the wheel using brute force and a big hammer. I cleaned everything up, applied some paint and grease and put the wheel back on. It's unbelievable what one Ontario winter can do. I can't imagine trying to do this at the side of some road when having a flat tire.

I also fixed a little rattle. The plastic panel on the tail gate was loose on one side. One clip was broken off. Nothing a bit of glue can't fix.

 

[krnnerdboy]

I had a strange noise coming from the left rear when driving very slowly. It sounded like an exhaust or heat shield rattle. It turned out to be a small rock that was stuck between my rear disk brake and the protective metal cover.
This morning I tried to take off my wheel but no matter what I tried, I couldn't get it off. Removing the bolts was not an issue, but the wheel seemed to be fused to the axle. I had to go to a different shop where I finally managed to remove the wheel using brute force and a big hammer. I cleaned everything up, applied some paint and grease and put the wheel back on. It's unbelievable what one Ontario winter can do. I can't imagine trying to do this at the side of some road when having a flat tire.

I also fixed a little rattle. The plastic panel on the tail gate was loose on one side. One clip was broken off. Nothing a bit of glue can't fix.

Yikes! My wheels usually come off with a nice horse kick but I did have a wheel fused to the axle once, and I jus rigged up the wheel to a support pole with a ratcheting tie down until it came loose. It near dragged my truck across the floor but it worked. Be sure to add anti seize on the hub and bolts!

 

[adrenalinefjz80]

I did some wrenching on my day off work today: installed front sway bar bushings/endlinks, rear bumpstops, front diff bushing on crossmember, and power steering drain/refill. I replaced the wheel locknuts with normal lug nuts as the key wasn't going to last much longer. I added to the spare parts box: coilpack, wheel stud, serpentine belt.

 

[phsycle]

20 minutes of work on my old Tacoma mudflaps I found.

 

[2000UZJ]

TJM Skids installed. For ~$230 from Jonesy's Offroad I could not be happier. Perfect alternatives to the skid plates available now.

 

[jgray]

^ those look good Nick! ESP for the $$$!

 

[mechanixhorseman]

Broke up my IBS/Slee Dual battery install into three days and completed the job today. I ended up using the die-hard PM-1 and PM-2's. I never though I'd have over 120 lbs dedicated to batteries. Now that the system is in place, I've got a long long laundry list of tasks to complete:

-front and rear fuse boxes
-relay switches for head unit/amp and radio (solution courtesy of RobRed)
-rewire aux lighting and multiple 12v outlets to the aux batt.
-power inverter install
-reverse light
-new amp install
-compressor install

And oh ya... properly dispose of that worthless redtop that failed me in less than two years. Good riddance.

 

[mechanixhorseman]

Some pics of the install:



I didn't end up putting all the welding cable in loom, but rather just the points I zip-tied and that will be subject to friction and vibration. The cable seems well insulated as is and the bright red serves as a reminder that I'm near a hot line.



I was pretty sure I wasn't going to use the extra battery terminals in the PM-1 until I went to re-attach the factory (+) harness. In lieu of fabbing a bracket I just decided to use this post for that and my winch line. The traditional terminal is utilized by the IBS. I also had to purchase longer j-bolts from autozone to make this beastly battery fit.



The aux battery also needed longer j-bolts than those supplied with the slee tray. I decided to reserve all of that real estate on off the battery plate for a couple of 150a breakers for the future fuse boxes, but I found mounting the relay and RBM off the side makes for a very easy to access angle. I'm somewhat undecided as to whether I should put my front fuse box under the hood or in the cab. I don't want to have to penetrate the firewall boot too many times. I'd be interested to hear everyone else's input on this.



Between the tray from slee, the IBS, RBM, and PM-1 & 2 batteries the setup ran just under a grand. I ended up catching the batteries on sale at Sears and getting about $40 off on top of that, ($400 for both).

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

Between the tray from slee, the IBS, RBM, and PM-1 & 2 batteries the setup ran just under a grand. I ended up catching the batteries on sale at Sears and getting about $40 off on top of that, ($400 for both).

Good deal on the batteries. Don't make the mistake I made. 150A breaker is way too much. The max rating for those blue sea fuse boxes is something pretty low like 30A. You have yours routed the way I did my new install. For $25, I'd still recommend looming those. I loomed my new install, and it's nice piece of mind and looks a lot cleaner.

 

[bluecruiser]

TJM Skids installed. For ~$230 from Jonesy's Offroad I could not be happier. Perfect alternatives to the skid plates available now.

What gauge is the steel? Thanks ...looks good.

 

[mechanixhorseman]

Good deal on the batteries. Don't make the mistake I made. 150A breaker is way too much. The max rating for those blue sea fuse boxes is something pretty low like 30A. You have yours routed the way I did my new install. For $25, I'd still recommend looming those. I loomed my new install, and it's nice piece of mind and looks a lot cleaner.

That seems like some pretty useful info, but I guess I'm a little confused. If the fusebox (say... safety hub 100) can hold a 200Amp MIDI fuse, how is the box only rated at 30a? Wouldn't I need a breaker that can handle any load in excess of all the devices on the hub combined?

edit: The hub in the link below is the one I was probably going to order and it looks as if its max amp rating is upwards of 280. Both the 50A and the 150A breaker cost just about the same on amazon so I can't imagine what it would hurt.

http://www.bluesea.com/products/7725/SafetyHub_100_Fuse_Block

 

[Supra88]

Rebooted the upper ball joint as preventative maintenance. I'm amazed at what great shape all of the ball joints have been in, including this latest one. Even after 150,000 miles, it looks brand new. Now it has nice fresh grease to last another 150,000 miles. I managed to bugger up the castle nut threads, so I ordered a new one to avoid damaging the ball joint threads. The original cotter pin had eroded away and the remnants had to be drilled out. (The picture was taken before I bent the new cotter pin in to place).

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

Checked the spec on all the shock mounting bolts. Then replaced all the rear sway bar bushings with Whiteline Poly bushings. Except for the top 4 sandwiching the bracket. All my post trip squeaks are gone.

I ordered Man-A-Fre's 80-Series extended sway bar links and used those with the 80 series bushings but the one 100 series washer (the non gold washer in the pictures).

As you can see the Man-A-Fre links are about an inch longer than OEM.

 

[OregonLC]

I'd be curious to see before/after RTI numbers from those stiffening their ASBs. I'd like to do the mod if it improves road handling, but not if it in any way inhibits flex.

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

I'd be curious to see before/after RTI numbers from those stiffening their ASBs. I'd like to do the mod if it improves road handling, but not if it in any way inhibits flex.

My old 100 didn't have the rear sway bar (broke all the corroded bolts installing the lift).

My plan was to use the extended links to help with articulation and use poly bushings (because they were cheaper than OEM) to help on road. But really there was a lot of squeaking after the last couple hundred off road miles. And I was just trying to fix that. For $100 it seemed with it to replace all the bushings.