Wish someone would 3d print it
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (33 Viewers)
- Thread starter SHUSH
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Sounds like a project for @BenCC
Using my Toyota dealer to cut my aftermarket key from RemotesRemotes.com - Replacement Keyless Entry Remote Key Fob Free Programming Instructions - https://www.remotesremotes.com/default.asp to match my VIN, and post #14 and #45 under Mauser’s “100 series master key thread”, I was able program both the lock/unlock function and the ECU immobilizer function to accept a second master key.
Now, I have less stress about my 23 year old fob going missing, or simply failing due to age.
Now, I have less stress about my 23 year old fob going missing, or simply failing due to age.
Replaced both front headlamps and driver's signal due to broken tabs today. Easy job although I've had some trouble locating the plastic parts in sheet metal that the bolts screw into. On the passenger side the plastic "grommet" fits into a square hole and I found a source for that. On the driver side it's a round hole. Not a clue on that one - the dealer shows it as square also, so no idea. I'd love to say the lights are brighter, but with glass lenses they really are the same. Ended up under $200 each with Black Friday online pricing. I finally stole from a stealership!
GTV
SILVER Star
Show yours off! I'm hoping to get mine back from powder very soon...
wiseinvestor
GOLD Star
Thanks for the heads up on that. I have been dreading the steering rack replacement cuz of the things I’ve seen and researched on it. However, I am also excited to get everything done as I can tell a huge difference already on how the rig drives and rides.
I'm stealing the tray idea. Thanks.Replaced my steering rack-
The original rack @ 225k hadn't started leaking yet but was feeling some looseness, some new torque steer, and found the inner tie rod loose where it screws into the end of the rack (red arrow).
View attachment 3329626
At this mileage I had considered replacing the ITR's and then the Outer TRE's which was more than half way to the cost of a new rack. So I pulled the trigger on new 44250-60100 from Eric at Serra Toyota Decatur. $578 and free shipping. Ordered the rack on Monday and it was sitting at the house by Thursday- well packed and fast delivery.
I had read and re-read the "How To replace your own steering rack" thread, planned ahead to have the needed parts on hand, and some extras just in case. @PabloCruise posted a series of images and steps to help and I think @Ayune put all that into a nice step by step document you can download to follow along if you don't have the FSM- and @2001LC had some good tips as did a dozen others. Its great DIY thread ( Link to thread: Replace Rack)
So with all that DIY tech support and instructions you'd assume its a pretty straight forward job- right? For a one and done project- technically it was fairly easy, but for me time consuming. The prep-steps took more time than physically taking out the rack. And then some stubborn parts like the 19 year old return line fitting that freezes up and you twist the return line until it looks like a piece for licorice. At the steering rack the return line fitting was frozen to the end of the tubing- nothing to do but embrace the sinking feeling that you're going to replace more parts.
View attachment 3329630
A few years ago I bought the Sunsong High pressure & low pressure replacement lines 3403598 Rock Auto- $95 vs OEM at several hundred $$$. So I had the replacement sitting in wait just in case. If you've read my other posts, you may know that I am an ardent OEM parts user but in some cases "better" vs "best" is a narrow window and you weigh the cost benefit. The SunSong lines fit fine, and they dont leak (yet) so I'll carry on.
Back to set-up and prep work. There's some short cut methods to expedite time and save some consumables. Not sure how much time I saved but I did eliminate dumping coolant. If you are replacing lines- its good practice to flush the system with fresh atf before you tear everything apart- I guess even if you dont replace the lines, its probably a good idea . You want to be careful to take good measurements before you start removing things, and pictures help too. I was anal about disassembly to ensure my reassembly alignment was correct and the steering wheel straight after buttoning it up. The extra time spent paid off and thankfully nailing the install, it drives straight and steering wheel is lined up- now just waiting a week to get in to confirm proper alignment at my preferred shop. Just about everything you need to know is in that How To thread- one of better how-to threads on the forum. Cudos to contributors of that thread.
Tools: Having a 17mm line fitting crows foot helps along with some good long handle crescent wrenches for the TRE's- and a good ball joint separator for the TRE. I suck at keeping my tools organized for the task- when I think I have everything I need I need something else I end up back and forth to the tool box with lots of up & down off the floor, then loosing the tool under my creeper that I just set down. So I made a tool caddy and parts holder repurposed from an old bread tray to help me keep organized while under the truck. Rollers, magnetic strips on the sides to hold sockets, tools and hardware- even hold an oil drain bucket. Yes its Fugly but its sturdy, cheap and effective.
View attachment 3329660View attachment 3329663
Parts: for the 03-07 rack you can reuse the lines ( as long as they come off with out damage). You'll probably need new outer TRE's ( I wouldn't install a new rack and reuse old TRE) need new sealing washers for the HP line ends, some quality SYN ATF. But I replaced more than required as some of my fittings were toast and new made the install a better end result.
Here's the list of parts I used- for 03-07(I reused virtually nothing you can do it for less) total parts cost $1030 ( discounted parts)
View attachment 3329656
Good luck on your next wrenching project
BullElk
SILVER Star
Installed a protective liner over tailgate carpet. Crude I know but perhaps functional.
Les Summer
SILVER Star
Were you having tough starts before switching out the vacuum switching valve? How many miles on it? thanks if you see this and answer.
Installed some onboard air and a new switch panel.
Installed T'eyes CC3 system WITH working AC.
Previous couple of weekends
*Ripped out old carpet
*Install sound deadening
*Closed foam padding
*New carpet
*New races, bearings, front rotors and brakes
*New diff and transfer case fluid
Next up:
*Timing belt
*Water pump
*Fan clutch
*Front diff bushing (Vibration and clunk)
*Ripped out old carpet
*Install sound deadening
*Closed foam padding
*New carpet
*New races, bearings, front rotors and brakes
*New diff and transfer case fluid
Next up:
*Timing belt
*Water pump
*Fan clutch
*Front diff bushing (Vibration and clunk)
This is awesome. Did you insulate the area right above the transmission/shifter? If not, I highly recommend because that area where the OEM cup holders are heat up. Insulating it is/can be beneficial if you put drinks on your cup holders. I am just looking for a good free weekend to do mine.
Previous couple of weekends
*Ripped out old carpet
*Install sound deadening
*Closed foam padding
*New carpet
*New races, bearings, front rotors and brakes
*New diff and transfer case fluid
Next up:
*Timing belt
*Water pump
*Fan clutch
Front diff bushing (Vibration and clunk)
*Ripped out old carpet
*Install sound deadening
*Closed foam padding
*New carpet
*New races, bearings, front rotors and brakes
*New diff and transfer case fluid
Next up:
*Timing belt
*Water pump
*Fan clutch
Front diff bushing (Vibration and clunk)
Yep. Pretty much everywhere and then cut or removed any that needed to be when putting it all back together. Only small screw up was cutting the carpet a tad short over the transmission tunnel in the foot wells. Had to seam it. First time ever doing carpet. Portable steamer and glue made it relatively easy. Very happy to have waterproof padding vs the old stuff that soaked up and water.
Last edited:
GTV
SILVER Star
Finalized the spare raise this weekend. I removed the front and rear bars completely so the spare rests directly on the forward crossmember and the rear bumper step plate. With the 20mm spacers in place the tire wasn’t quite high enough to make contact with the forward crossmember and therefore wasn’t secured. I exchanged those for 1 1/4” spacers (≈32mm) and now the tire rests firmly against the forward crossmember. I also lowered the winch with some 1/2” spacers.
Before:
After:
Not too bad for a 35x11.50.
I discovered that it is pointless (and actually worse) to raise the spare higher than 1 1/4”. You can raise the spare crossmember higher but the forward crossmember and the rear step plate are your limiting factors. Raising the spare crossmember higher will decrease the contact area the tire has, it will only rest against the front & rear and the spare crossmember will essentially float above the tire.
Last edited:
GTV
SILVER Star
Yes it will, however, I got away with 1 1/4" raise because I have a 1/2" body lift. The evap canister is mounted to the body and therefore gave me the space I needed. You'll have to get creative with the canister to get more than 3/4" of raise.
Also, the face of your wheel and width of your tire will dictate how far you can space the winch down. With the spare mounted up I was able to see/feel the available space I had to work with.
Last edited:
Did you run into the hum/hiss? Factory amp?
