Wish someone would 3d print itIt seems that over the past few years, several mud members have been looking for the same part. Discontinued by Mr T…
View attachment 3495127
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Wish someone would 3d print itIt seems that over the past few years, several mud members have been looking for the same part. Discontinued by Mr T…
View attachment 3495127
Sounds like a project for @BenCCWish someone would 3d print it
Nice vice! I made nearly the same part for the same reason. Looks very good!Last weekend my custom receiver project finally came to fruition. Tucked the bike rack in about 4”, it’s bolted to both sides of the crossmember and rigid AF. Just needs powdercoat and I can finally scratch this off the list.
Before, with the chinsy Amazon unit:
View attachment 3485146
View attachment 3485147
View attachment 3485148
View attachment 3485149
View attachment 3485150
View attachment 3485151
Nice vice! I made nearly the same part for the same reason. Looks very good!
This was a big week for my rig. Got to install some toys and go for a good camper towing trip...followed by the annual Christmas tree haul.
Rented a Taxa Cricket for Thanksgiving
Installed a Kammok Crosswing quick-deploy canopy from the kickstarter
replaced my ML subwoofer foam surround (shoutout to Simply Speakers)
Installed Owl Expedition seat MOLLE/Extinguisher mount
NOT PICTURED: some new Bosch wiper blade.
Any long term feedback on the kammok crosswing awning? Been looking at the current models.
Thanks for the heads up on that. I have been dreading the steering rack replacement cuz of the things I’ve seen and researched on it. However, I am also excited to get everything done as I can tell a huge difference already on how the rig drives and rides.Nice work! Steering rack is not as bad as it may seem. Definitely make sure to raise the engine on the drivers side as seen in the write up. Also when you do that loosen the fan bracket bc it will push into it once you lift the engine slightly.
I'm stealing the tray idea. Thanks.Replaced my steering rack-
The original rack @ 225k hadn't started leaking yet but was feeling some looseness, some new torque steer, and found the inner tie rod loose where it screws into the end of the rack (red arrow).
View attachment 3329626
At this mileage I had considered replacing the ITR's and then the Outer TRE's which was more than half way to the cost of a new rack. So I pulled the trigger on new 44250-60100 from Eric at Serra Toyota Decatur. $578 and free shipping. Ordered the rack on Monday and it was sitting at the house by Thursday- well packed and fast delivery.
I had read and re-read the "How To replace your own steering rack" thread, planned ahead to have the needed parts on hand, and some extras just in case. @PabloCruise posted a series of images and steps to help and I think @Ayune put all that into a nice step by step document you can download to follow along if you don't have the FSM- and @2001LC had some good tips as did a dozen others. Its great DIY thread ( Link to thread: Replace Rack)
So with all that DIY tech support and instructions you'd assume its a pretty straight forward job- right? For a one and done project- technically it was fairly easy, but for me time consuming. The prep-steps took more time than physically taking out the rack. And then some stubborn parts like the 19 year old return line fitting that freezes up and you twist the return line until it looks like a piece for licorice. At the steering rack the return line fitting was frozen to the end of the tubing- nothing to do but embrace the sinking feeling that you're going to replace more parts.
View attachment 3329630
A few years ago I bought the Sunsong High pressure & low pressure replacement lines 3403598 Rock Auto- $95 vs OEM at several hundred $$$. So I had the replacement sitting in wait just in case. If you've read my other posts, you may know that I am an ardent OEM parts user but in some cases "better" vs "best" is a narrow window and you weigh the cost benefit. The SunSong lines fit fine, and they dont leak (yet) so I'll carry on.
Back to set-up and prep work. There's some short cut methods to expedite time and save some consumables. Not sure how much time I saved but I did eliminate dumping coolant. If you are replacing lines- its good practice to flush the system with fresh atf before you tear everything apart- I guess even if you dont replace the lines, its probably a good idea . You want to be careful to take good measurements before you start removing things, and pictures help too. I was anal about disassembly to ensure my reassembly alignment was correct and the steering wheel straight after buttoning it up. The extra time spent paid off and thankfully nailing the install, it drives straight and steering wheel is lined up- now just waiting a week to get in to confirm proper alignment at my preferred shop. Just about everything you need to know is in that How To thread- one of better how-to threads on the forum. Cudos to contributors of that thread.
Tools: Having a 17mm line fitting crows foot helps along with some good long handle crescent wrenches for the TRE's- and a good ball joint separator for the TRE. I suck at keeping my tools organized for the task- when I think I have everything I need I need something else I end up back and forth to the tool box with lots of up & down off the floor, then loosing the tool under my creeper that I just set down. So I made a tool caddy and parts holder repurposed from an old bread tray to help me keep organized while under the truck. Rollers, magnetic strips on the sides to hold sockets, tools and hardware- even hold an oil drain bucket. Yes its Fugly but its sturdy, cheap and effective.
View attachment 3329660View attachment 3329663
Parts: for the 03-07 rack you can reuse the lines ( as long as they come off with out damage). You'll probably need new outer TRE's ( I wouldn't install a new rack and reuse old TRE) need new sealing washers for the HP line ends, some quality SYN ATF. But I replaced more than required as some of my fittings were toast and new made the install a better end result.
Here's the list of parts I used- for 03-07(I reused virtually nothing you can do it for less) total parts cost $1030 ( discounted parts)
View attachment 3329656
Good luck on your next wrenching project![]()
I knocked out an evap code with a new vacuum switching valve and refoamed my subwoofer and front door speakers. I will tackle the rear door speakers this weekend.
I used the Simply Speakers kit from eBay.
Here are some good how-to videos for accessing the subwoofer and front door speakers. For the subwoofer, note that it is easy to remove the entire housing from the car--the Youtuber did not realize this and did the refoaming in the car.
This is awesome. Did you insulate the area right above the transmission/shifter? If not, I highly recommend because that area where the OEM cup holders are heat up. Insulating it is/can be beneficial if you put drinks on your cup holders. I am just looking for a good free weekend to do mine.Previous couple of weekends
*Ripped out old carpet
*Install sound deadening
*Closed foam padding
*New carpet
*New races, bearings, front rotors and brakes
*New diff and transfer case fluid
Next up:
*Timing belt
*Water pump
*Fan clutch
*Front diff bushing (Vibration and clunk)
View attachment 3497338
View attachment 3497339
View attachment 3497342
Yep. Pretty much everywhere and then cut or removed any that needed to be when putting it all back together. Only small screw up was cutting the carpet a tad short over the transmission tunnel in the foot wells. Had to seam it. First time ever doing carpet. Portable steamer and glue made it relatively easy. Very happy to have waterproof padding vs the old stuff that soaked up and water.This is awesome. Did you insulate the area right above the transmission/shifter? If not, I highly recommend because that area where the OEM cup holders are heat up. Insulating it is/can be beneficial if you put drinks on your cup holders. I am just looking for a good free weekend to do mine.
Played around with raising my spare today. The skid plate spacers (and bolts) that came with my TT diff drop are 1 1/4” OD, 20mm (≈3/4”) tall. The ID (5/16”) and OD are perfect for the application but I’m leaving about 10mm on the table, and I want that 10mm! I can’t find aluminium spacers with those specs but they must exist… anyone have any ideas?
1.25” OD x 5/16” ID x 1 3/16” long
Or
32mm OD x 8mm ID x 30mm long
Also replaced my spare winch while I was there, I think some rocks found their way in and was binding the mechanism up.
View attachment 3478682
View attachment 3478683
Nice. Bookmarking this when I do mine. Do you think 35x12.5R18 will work?Finalized the spare raise this weekend. I removed the front and rear bars completely so the spare rests directly on the forward crossmember and the rear bumper step plate. With the 20mm spacers in place the tire wasn’t quite high enough to make contact with the forward crossmember and therefore wasn’t solidly mounted. I exchanged those for 1 1/4” spacers (≈32mm) and now the tire rests firmly against the forward crossmember. I also lowered the winch with some 1/2” spacers.
Before:
View attachment 3497877
After:
View attachment 3497862
Not too bad for a 35x11.50.
I discovered that it is pointless (and actually worse) to raise the spare higher than 1 1/4”. You can raise the spare crossmember higher but the forward crossmember and the rear step plate are your limiting factors. Raising the spare crossmember higher will decrease the contact area the tire has, it will only rest against the front & rear and the spare crossmember will essentially float above the tire.
Nice. Bookmarking this when I do mine. Do you think 35x12.5R18 will work?
Did you run into the hum/hiss? Factory amp?