What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (40 Viewers)

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New windshield the right way with all Toyota moldings/rivets/etc. - The installer planned on a day and took 2.5 days. Said Safelite did the last one and it was a mess to clean up. To their credit the price was the same as they originally quoted. Anyone who needs a windshield in Cincinnati, highly recommend Mel's Autoglass.
 
New windshield the right way with all Toyota moldings/rivets/etc. - The installer planned on a day and took 2.5 days. Said Safelite did the last one and it was a mess to clean up. To their credit the price was the same as they originally quoted. Anyone who needs a windshield in Cincinnati, highly recommend Mel's Autoglass.
What did he charge you? After this recent ice/freeze the small crack in my windshield ran nearly all the way across.
 
$500 total. Aftermarket glass but everything else Toyota. PM me your email if you want copy of invoice with cost breakdown and part numbers for the Toyota items.
 
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Back from getting the 200k mile service at my local shop. Timing belt (and all associated parts), new plugs, radiator hoses and valve cover gaskets as well. Glad to have her back.
 
I really wanted the goose gear liner for my truck but at $850 dollars plus the tailgate cover of my choice we were looking at around 1100 dollars.

This cost me about 300 with a lot extra sound proof and raptor liner to spare. You could have got this price down but I bought a 140 dollar raptor liner kit and only used 1/4 of it. The rest was just basic tools like a jig saw. The router wasn’t necessary. Copied Brady adventures tailgate cover guide.

Tools needed
Saw horses
Jig saw
Router for nice edges on the tailgate cover.
Some silicon for the bolts I removed from the cargo area
Some drill bits
We’ll nuts and machine screws.
Raptor liner.
Kilmat sound proofer

Came out great and I’ve got a s*** ton of raptor liner to spare.

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I really wanted the goose gear liner for my truck but at $850 dollars plus the tailgate cover of my choice we were looking at around 1100 dollars.

This cost me about 300 with a lot extra sound proof and raptor liner to spare. You could have got this price down but I bought a 140 dollar raptor liner kit and only used 1/4 of it. The rest was just basic tools like a jig saw. The router wasn’t necessary. Copied Brady adventures tailgate cover guide.

Tools needed
Saw horses
Jig saw
Router for nice edges on the tailgate cover.
Some silicon for the bolts I removed from the cargo area
Some drill bits
We’ll nuts and machine screws.
Raptor liner.
Kilmat sound proofer

Came out great and I’ve got a s*** ton of raptor liner to spare.

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plywood would be heavy
 
I guess it depends on your uses but I’d think a rubber mat would be light but not very convenient utility wise. For example sliding cargo/objects in and out could make it would bunch up and shift around. I did a similar deck out of leftover 7/16 Doug Fir plywood and cheap bed liner (rustoleom i think) a couple summers ago. It’s light and works well, I can basically threat the back like a truck bed now. Do wish I’d of done sound deadener like @jbbattag did, with the carpet gone it’s quite noisy back there now. Ideally or if it wears out enough it’ll be replaced with 7/16 hardwood ply and bed liner.

@jbbattag did you anchor the deck? Not seeing any hardware except the tailgate. I used a dowel center marker in a couple of the 3rd row seat mounting holes to mark the underside of the ply then drilled some counter sunk holes to bolt the deck to the floor.
 
@jbbattag did you anchor the deck? Not seeing any hardware except the tailgate. I used a dowel center marker in a couple of the 3rd row seat mounting holes to mark the underside of the ply then drilled some counter sunk holes to bolt the deck to the floor.


I was planning on doing this, but my cuts were good enough just from tracing the old ratty carpet that it fit extremely snug, it doesn’t move at all when driving. Having the kilmat soundproofing underneath gives it a really nice padding too. I usually keep a tool box with some jacks and ratchet set back there so that should add some weight on top to boot. If it ever gives me any issue I have all the third row seat bolts and will bolt it down.

this project started when I found dampness like many others have in the cargo area. The dampness was coming from the third brake light. After 18 years my carpet was absolutely disgusting. I transitioned to a weathertech mat about 8 years ago and even that was ratty at this point. This is sort of a utility vehicle for me. Heavy duty cargo area bed with matching tailgate is a great mod! Let me know if you need any help @highkick05, I know you are thinking about doing it once you crunch the weight numbers, may have to upgrade your suspension though.
 
I was planning on doing this, but my cuts were good enough just from tracing the old ratty carpet that it fit extremely snug, it doesn’t move at all when driving. Having the kilmat soundproofing underneath gives it a really nice padding too. I usually keep a tool box with some jacks and ratchet set back there so that should add some weight on top to boot. If it ever gives me any issue I have all the third row seat bolts and will bolt it down.

this project started when I found dampness like many others have in the cargo area. The dampness was coming from the third brake light. After 18 years my carpet was absolutely disgusting. I transitioned to a weathertech mat about 8 years ago and even that was ratty at this point. This is sort of a utility vehicle for me. Heavy duty cargo area bed with matching tailgate is a great mod! Let me know if you need any help @highkick05, I know you are thinking about doing it once you crunch the weight numbers, may have to upgrade your suspension though.
Nahr, used plywood in an old half cabin fibreglass boat I used to have to replace a few panels. I know the weight all too well, but if you plan on sliding work gear in and out, hell that would do the job well.
 
The good thing about the cargo deck is you now have a platform to mount other things. I've made many iterations using my cargo deck over the years. It's a nice blank slate. You can't mount anything to a rubber mat.

Mark out what you want to mount, add some stainless tee nuts to the underside and you're good to go. Never use wood screws, because they'll just pull out.

I've mounted a compressor, drawer systems, cargo rails, water storage, cargo boxes, etc. All those mounting bolts for the third row seats can be adapted to use with climbing anchors for more tie downs.

A cargo deck is one of the more functional improvements to the rear storage area, but I may be biased.

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^^^
SO. CLEAN.

Looks great. Last time I was up under mine, doing similar refresh project, the level of old grease and oil had me looking like one of those poor seabirds you see whenever there's an oil spill. I smelled like a refinery for a week.
 
I was planning on doing this, but my cuts were good enough just from tracing the old ratty carpet that it fit extremely snug, it doesn’t move at all when driving. Having the kilmat soundproofing underneath gives it a really nice padding too. I usually keep a tool box with some jacks and ratchet set back there so that should add some weight on top to boot. If it ever gives me any issue I have all the third row seat bolts and will bolt it down.

this project started when I found dampness like many others have in the cargo area. The dampness was coming from the third brake light. After 18 years my carpet was absolutely disgusting. I transitioned to a weathertech mat about 8 years ago and even that was ratty at this point. This is sort of a utility vehicle for me. Heavy duty cargo area bed with matching tailgate is a great mod! Let me know if you need any help @highkick05, I know you are thinking about doing it once you crunch the weight numbers, may have to upgrade your suspension though.
Another reason for tying your cargo platform and sundry items mounted onto it is you don’t want all of the stuff free to move about the inside of your passenger compartment in an accident or rollover. Bolting things down gives the occupants a much better chance at surviving some unforeseen event.
 
Installed the weBoost Drive Reach cellular booster. Tested it out today at Alpental (local ski area).

With the car turned off:

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With the accessories enabled so that the booster is on:

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Decent gain on download, but significant gain on upload (enough to do a video call I think). You can also see the loss difference of 69% to 16%. I also used the built in cell stats to measure -118 RSRP w/o the booster, and -104 RSRP (this is with 5G) so a 14 dB gain. I think I can improve this a bit with antenna placement or upgrading to a bigger antenna. Currently just using the antenna the kit comes with which is magnetically connected to the roof. The interior antenna is stickied to just behind the driver seat.

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Will need to see how much this helps when I go overlanding this summer, but it can't boost where there isn't any signal at all.
 
Installed the weBoost Drive Reach cellular booster. Tested it out today at Alpental (local ski area).

With the car turned off:

View attachment 2937808

With the accessories enabled so that the booster is on:

View attachment 2937807
Decent gain on download, but significant gain on upload (enough to do a video call I think). You can also see the loss difference of 69% to 16%. I also used the built in cell stats to measure -118 RSRP w/o the booster, and -104 RSRP (this is with 5G) so a 14 dB gain. I think I can improve this a bit with antenna placement or upgrading to a bigger antenna. Currently just using the antenna the kit comes with which is magnetically connected to the roof. The interior antenna is stickied to just behind the driver seat.

View attachment 2937810

Will need to see how much this helps when I go overlanding this summer, but it can't boost where there isn't any signal at all.
I've had a question about these. Do they work while driving ? Just installed ceramic tint which has 0 signal interference. One of these would rock
 

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