We all seems to have different sized bananasSure this a 1job?
What year is your cruiser?
It definitely felt more like a 1 1/2
job to me
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (52 Viewers)
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It definitely felt more like a 1 1/2
job to me
‘00 LX hit 99,999 on the ODO today.
Long way to go.
Long way to go.
Ordered Denso 9500107 Fuel Pump replacement kit from RockAuto. I like to replace fuel pumps after 20 years and 200,000 miles as preventative maintenance.
Fuel pump replacement on the 100 is easier than going under the bed or dropping the tank on a pickup.
Ordered the o-ring gasket as an afterthought. I should be set.
I need to pull the carpet in that area for another project. So while I'm in there....
Fuel pump replacement on the 100 is easier than going under the bed or dropping the tank on a pickup.
Ordered the o-ring gasket as an afterthought. I should be set.
I need to pull the carpet in that area for another project. So while I'm in there....
It's just a baby.
Mdej3
SILVER Star
Great times with the hundy and the wife.
Painted my hood. When you live in Texas or Arizona....you pay a 'Sun Tax' and some of the Clear-Coat on my hood was getting kind of cloudy.
It doesn't help that my LX is 'Smoky Topaz Mica'. So I sanded all the clear coat off and cut into the old base paint a bit, but shot over the top of that. 3 coats of base, let dry, 3 wet coats of catalyzed clear-coat.
Will need to let it cure a few days then cut and buff it.
It doesn't help that my LX is 'Smoky Topaz Mica'. So I sanded all the clear coat off and cut into the old base paint a bit, but shot over the top of that. 3 coats of base, let dry, 3 wet coats of catalyzed clear-coat.
Will need to let it cure a few days then cut and buff it.
done a great job, what did you use for clear coat?
Yeah the metalics are harder to shoot, but looks like the colour is bang on.
I duplicolor wheel painted these LX wheels I picked up a couple of months ago and finally got them installed. I’m not 100% sold on them as I think it looks less aggressive now. Just waiting to get my sliders powder coated and installed. Saving for a roof rack now
Currently doing body and paint work on my side mirrors and unfortunately I broke the side mirror switch wood panel trim while I was removing the door panel. Ughh
Saw one in eBay but the wood color is different. Anyone that has leads to used/surplus part for this?
PFA
the one on the right is the eBay part
Saw one in eBay but the wood color is different. Anyone that has leads to used/surplus part for this?
PFA
the one on the right is the eBay part
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Used 'Glamour Clear Coat' and hardener.
Shot the metallic base with a #2 tip and dropped down to a #1 for the clear.
It will look better once polished out, but already more presentable than it was.
LCT
SILVER Star
Looks great! How long did it take and cost for materials? I was quoted ~$500 for just the hood. You think that’s a fair price? Thanks!
Prep work *depending upon what is needed* will take most of your time. Also the quality of the finish will dictate whether or not you 'sand' between coats. In my case, I have about 7 hours in the job. I would not consider it 'Pro' quality work but the average person walking by would not see the difference.
$500.00 for a proper paint job on the hood is a bargain. This assumes good products being used. I was quoted $900.00 on mine.
Cost of materials for me amounted to Sand Paper, Masking Tape and plastic, and the paint components. I already had a respirator, a decent spray gun, compressor, Lacquer thinner for clean up, etc.....
All told....I probably have $150.00 in it. Depending upon the temperature and humidity your base coats *with medium activator* will dry in 15 minutes. I put down 3 coats. Let it dry/cure for 2 hours then came back and laid down a flash coat of clear, waited 10 minutes, a wet coat of clear, waited 20 minutes and final wet coat of clear. 2 hours later that was dry to the touch.
I will let it all harden a couple of days and then polish it out. I have a polisher and all the compounds. But even if I didn't polish it....it easily passes for a decent respray 'as is'.
Laying down the paint is the easy part. 'Prep Work' is the critical component.
I did my work with the hood on the vehicle because my Wife declined my request that she help me remove the hood.
But it would be a lot easier to do it OFF the vehicle.
You have the touch. Paintwork is an art and science.
LCT
SILVER Star
Thank you so much for the detail step by step instructions! That is a lot of work and agree with you that $500 for a pro job is a bargain. Thanks again and great job on your hood paint. It looks like a pro work to me.
This project....not so much, but yes a professional painter is a skilled individual, no doubt.
With base-coat/clear-coat applications you have to get things right....or you'll be starting all over again. If a person were using a single stage paint, corrections can be made after the spray. But single stage next to BC/CC would not match.
Checking in from Alabama, with an LX that lived in Memphis the first 16-17 years... I think it's the paint. All the upward-facing surfaces of my truck look like absolute garbage, including the door handles and stuff. Hood and roof are trrrrrrashed.
Did you spray outside or in your garage? I've got most of the stuff besides a spray gun, but honestly the thought of coating all the contents of everything indoors with a mist of Riverrock Green Pearlmica or whatever the paint is called (or having to build a temp spray booth...) has kept me from considering it too much.
I actually sprayed this outside *sort of*. My shop is so full of other projects I didn't want to move.
So I put up a canopy I already had 10'x10' and draped plastic down 3 sides. Had just enough room to move around. If I had removed the hood and put it on sawhorses I would have had much more room, but I did it with the hood still on the vehicle, so had to do a lot of masking. Hood off....would have been a piece of cake.
Got a rooftop box on the old girl 
having owned my LX470 for almost a week now, i noticed that the PO had the rear hatch resprayed and the painter didn't do a good job of masking as there appears to be overspray. Any recommendation on getting that sorted? I thought about wet sanding it and polishing, I tried clay bar and it helped remove some of the overspray that was lighter but there's still a discernable texture that didn't come off with clay
Yes....base coat overspray can be removed...but be careful not to cut through the clear coat under it. You can take some 800 grit wet of dry and lightly remove the overspray, then buff it out or use finer wet or dry 1500/2000 to restore the shine.
