What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (15 Viewers)

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Engle 45 platinum, been an amazing fridge. Doubt I'll even have to purchase another to replace it. And at first it was real tight, but I quickly got used to it. Trying my hardest to use every inch to avoid slipping into buying a trailor. Has worked so far, but we'll see how long it lasts 🤣
Thanks for the Info!
 
Please post when you sort it out! I’ve been dealing with a similar issue I can’t locate!
Without pics to support, sorry ....

My top moulding sits on top of the rain channel moulding on that side. It is also loose enough that I can move it with my finger and create gaps visible.

I'll be overlapping the top moulding with the rain channel and gooping the s*** out of the whole corner with sealant. I'm quite sure this is the root cause and the issue will be solved. The other side is done correctly and no issues.

Sometimes symmetry matters.
 
a few weeks ago while changing the head light bulb, the flag terminal ripped from the wire. today i finally tackled this small project and opened up to see what exactly happened. i seen a thread on here about it being somewhat of an issue on the 100’s and when i tried to find the actual part local to me, it was quoted either 100 bucks or “discontinued”, so i went ahead and bought some 16 gauge wire, put my crimp skills to the test, and within half an hour, i got both of them up and running again.

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C1946A21-C535-4575-8F95-B20774A86EE8.jpeg
 
Coils, plugs, oil change, front and rear diff fluids, fixed broken center console latch, and x2 power 27f battery. Interesting thing, the price of the battery varied by $50 depending on the pickup location selected on the batteries plus site. That, plus a 20% coupon I got off here brought it to only $307 with tax.

451F1849-EAD9-4182-B65C-5971813C8A9D.jpeg
 
New shoes, who dis
View attachment 2465298

Started cleaning the AC evap coil which is caked on with junk. Trying to suck up as much as possible before I do any sort of spray down so it doesn't clog the drain. Looks like some of the fins are broken off :doh:
View attachment 2465299
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Replaced all the ignition coils since they were cracked. Planning to keep the old ones as spares since they still functioned.

Found a dead battery after a night of rain with some really slight dampness in parts of the cabin. Not sure if it is related or if I just drained the battery since I have had doors open for the past few weeks without the engine on while I do other stuff. Investigating sunroof drains, windshield gaskets, and roof rack bolts to see if any smoking guns.
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Also borrowed a better borescope from work to take a look at the time-sert that is broken in my #8 cylinder and the piston head (videos of damage below). Welcome to any comments good, bad and ugly about this. I'm just hoping its fixable since I feel pretty bummed about finding it when I haven't even really had a chance to do much besides starting my baselining.
Thread Side View (Piston to Spark Plug Tube)
Piston Head

Finally, found a bushing that is trashed so going to do a review of all of them to see what needs to get replaced.
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Looks like you definitely have part of the time-sert in the combustion chamber. It's also looks to me like it has damaged the cylinder wall as well, but I'm far from an expert. I guess your first course of action would be removing the fragment and determining how bad the damage is. The head can be replaced, but damage to the cylinder wall would be much more difficult to address. Definitely interested to hear what our more knowledgeable members have to say.

Good luck, sir!
 
Without pics to support, sorry ....

My top moulding sits on top of the rain channel moulding on that side. It is also loose enough that I can move it with my finger and create gaps visible.

I'll be overlapping the top moulding with the rain channel and gooping the s*** out of the whole corner with sealant. I'm quite sure this is the root cause and the issue will be solved. The other side is done correctly and no issues.

Sometimes symmetry matters.

sure hope you can post some "before" pics--if your top trim was over your side trim, that'd sure be a problem. My top trim looks _nothing_ like @ClassyJalopy 's, but, yes, it's definitely tucked under the side trim. . . good luck!
 
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Yes sir, I’m out of NE portland. You?
I'm in Tualatin. New it looked familiar. Cedar tree trail or something but I don't recall that particular spot.
 
To the horror of many, I removed my fading "wood" trim... and replaced it with new "wood" trim!

View attachment 2455489

I'm pretty satisfied with the results. We'll see how it ages. If this stuff fails fast, I'm simply tearing it off and sticking with the plastic.

You can see more pictures on my build thread:

what do you have stuck in the ashtray section?
 
Without pics to support, sorry ....

My top moulding sits on top of the rain channel moulding on that side. It is also loose enough that I can move it with my finger and create gaps visible.

I'll be overlapping the top moulding with the rain channel and gooping the s*** out of the whole corner with sealant. I'm quite sure this is the root cause and the issue will be solved. The other side is done correctly and no issues.

Sometimes symmetry matters.
OK, all fixed. Here are the details.

On the passenger side, the rain channel (the piece that you rivet) was under the top windshield moulding. I had to gently pry up the rain channel, tuck in the top windshield moulding underneath, and then used some windshield silicone to fill the small hole that remained between the the rain channel and the corner of the windshield due to 3+ years of deformation due to incorrect installation. There is now no gap in that area.

On the drivers side, it appears as if the top windshield moulding was installed a bit too far towards the passenger side, so there was a tiny gap where air could enter from the right direction between the rain channel, windshield, and top windshield moulding. A bit of windshield silicone plugged this right up. I would notice a tiny bit of air noise from that corner at high(er) speeds with lots of cross winds.

The nice part about these gaps is that air/water had to go "up" to enter the areas, so air entered easily, but not so much water. I also have no moisture in the area and the metal all looks dry and original at this time.

For folks chasing down air leaks on their rigs, I'll heartily recommend you inspect these areas closely, buy some windshield silicone, and seal it up generously if ANYTHING looks suspicious.
 
Coils, plugs, oil change, front and rear diff fluids, fixed broken center console latch, and x2 power 27f battery. Interesting thing, the price of the battery varied by $50 depending on the pickup location selected on the batteries plus site. That, plus a 20% coupon I got off here brought it to only $307 with tax.

Hopefully the oil cap made it back on after the photo was taken! :)
 
Looks like you definitely have part of the time-sert in the combustion chamber. It's also looks to me like it has damaged the cylinder wall as well, but I'm far from an expert. I guess your first course of action would be removing the fragment and determining how bad the damage is. The head can be replaced, but damage to the cylinder wall would be much more difficult to address. Definitely interested to hear what our more knowledgeable members have to say.

Good luck, sir!

Appreciate the input and yea definitely hoping to get input from some of the more seasoned members. I know @2001LC is one, just wish there was a bat symbol I could send up.
 
OK, all fixed. Here are the details.

On the passenger side, the rain channel (the piece that you rivet) was under the top windshield moulding. I had to gently pry up the rain channel, tuck in the top windshield moulding underneath, and then used some windshield silicone to fill the small hole that remained between the the rain channel and the corner of the windshield due to 3+ years of deformation due to incorrect installation. There is now no gap in that area.

On the drivers side, it appears as if the top windshield moulding was installed a bit too far towards the passenger side, so there was a tiny gap where air could enter from the right direction between the rain channel, windshield, and top windshield moulding. A bit of windshield silicone plugged this right up. I would notice a tiny bit of air noise from that corner at high(er) speeds with lots of cross winds.

The nice part about these gaps is that air/water had to go "up" to enter the areas, so air entered easily, but not so much water. I also have no moisture in the area and the metal all looks dry and original at this time.

For folks chasing down air leaks on their rigs, I'll heartily recommend you inspect these areas closely, buy some windshield silicone, and seal it up generously if ANYTHING looks suspicious.
ALMOST all fixed, another less noticable one popped up near the bottom corner at the passenger side. Lots of sealant should fix this one. Peace and quiet, here I come!
 
From the last trip up to Flag last weekend.

I never wash it (Phoenix Sun/Heat + Vinyl Wrap + Wash = probably less life of vinyl) but I think this weekend she deserves to be washed before the sun is beating down, she is very dusty:

aLrAem8.jpg


It's also time to install the blank plates and hardware that has been sitting to completely delete the roof rack bolts.
 

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