What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (32 Viewers)
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94SRUNNER
GOLD Star
Check my plugs Saturday and all of them were loose and took little to no torque to remove. They were Denso SK20R11 Japan KN. I did not use a torque wrench at install, just snugged them up with a ratchet. As the picture shows, the electrode were worn out. Those plugs were installed 06/2017 and have about 38k on them.
Based on the worn electrode I decided to replace them.
The new plugs Denso SK20R11 (3297) “Assembled in the US with foreign content" from Advance Auto. All went in without anti-seize andtorqued to approximately 15ft-lbs.
I’ll be installing a new Mishimoto radiator in the near future, at which time I’ll be checking the torque and installing new valve cover seals and spark plug tube seals as I am getting some oil seeping into the tubes.
Today I installed @Fourrunner ground cable kit that I picked up over the summer.
The ground off the battery and ground from the DD engine lift point to the DS inner fender went in smoothly.
On my 06’ the other main ground runs from the DS firewall to the PS engine lift point. The kit I haBe has the ground cable from the DS firewall to the back of the DS head. I left the factory ground in place and added the other. It took some contorting, but went in without to much issue.
All in all it seemed to have made a small improvement by about 0.1-0.2V.
Based on the worn electrode I decided to replace them.
The new plugs Denso SK20R11 (3297) “Assembled in the US with foreign content" from Advance Auto. All went in without anti-seize andtorqued to approximately 15ft-lbs.
I’ll be installing a new Mishimoto radiator in the near future, at which time I’ll be checking the torque and installing new valve cover seals and spark plug tube seals as I am getting some oil seeping into the tubes.
Today I installed @Fourrunner ground cable kit that I picked up over the summer.
The ground off the battery and ground from the DD engine lift point to the DS inner fender went in smoothly.
On my 06’ the other main ground runs from the DS firewall to the PS engine lift point. The kit I haBe has the ground cable from the DS firewall to the back of the DS head. I left the factory ground in place and added the other. It took some contorting, but went in without to much issue.
All in all it seemed to have made a small improvement by about 0.1-0.2V.
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JohnnyUtah2
SILVER Star
Today I installed @Fourrunner ground cable kit that I picked up over the summer.
The ground off the battery and ground from the DD engine lift point to the DS inner fender went in smoothly.
View attachment 2463015
View attachment 2463014
On my 06’ the other main ground runs from the DS firewall to the PS engine lift point. The kit I haBe has the ground cable from the DS firewall to the back of the DS head. I left the factory ground in place and added the other. It took some contorting, but went in without to much issue.
View attachment 2463028
All in all it seemed to have made a small improvement by about 0.1-0.2V.
[/QUOTE]
Forgive my ignorance but can you describe this modification and the benefits? Thanks in advance.
The ground off the battery and ground from the DD engine lift point to the DS inner fender went in smoothly.
View attachment 2463015
View attachment 2463014
On my 06’ the other main ground runs from the DS firewall to the PS engine lift point. The kit I haBe has the ground cable from the DS firewall to the back of the DS head. I left the factory ground in place and added the other. It took some contorting, but went in without to much issue.
View attachment 2463028
All in all it seemed to have made a small improvement by about 0.1-0.2V.
[/QUOTE]
Forgive my ignorance but can you describe this modification and the benefits? Thanks in advance.
mdcoa
SILVER Star
@AltitudeCruisr , I PMd you yesterday to apologize and discuss, and to offer to take down my post, but it doesn't look like you saw it.
Didn't intend any racial/cultural angle to my comment--the visor just made me think of insanely tricked out trucks, which made me think of South Asian "jingle trucks," which, for the record, I think are stinking awesome.
I also thought from the tone of your post (which acknowledged that this look isn't for everyone and appeared to poke fun at another member) that you'd be up for some ribbing. Your initial response, about the lack of powdercoat on the jingle truck making it inappropriate for mud, was hilarious.
But I did fail to notice how new to the forum you are, and wouldn't have posted a parody had I realized you were so new.
------
All that to say I sincerely apologize for poking fun at a new guy, and for my failure to realize that my post could come across as culturally insensitive. Say the word and I will be happy to take it down.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
So upon closer inspection, my rig has two "bolt head screws" in place of rivets (!!) and no covering piece on either side for the rivets. Will be fixing these issues shortly and hopefully things will be quiet once again.
The window trick didn't work on my rig, unfortunately.
@Madadder roll the windows down, spray the tracks with silicone lubricant, roll up and down a few times. Repeat as necessary.
I masked off the trim with index cards inserted behind and painters tape to hold them in place, drop cloth as needed. Sprayed with self-etching primer followed by truck bed liner, immediately cleaned up any over-spray with goo-gone. Masking everything off is the time-intensive part.
Replaced factory door speakers and sub. SKAR EVL65 sub fit perfectly after cutting out the waffle baffling inside the sub enclosure. Door speakers are cheap Wally World replacement speakers wired to the factory amp. I don’t care that much about sound quality as 90% of my music is old bootlegs to begin with.
6” dual voice front doors (left factory mid and tweet as they were in fine shape)
5 1/4” 4 way back doors (cut factory tweeters as they were played out)
6 1/2” skar sub mentioned above
6” dual voice front doors (left factory mid and tweet as they were in fine shape)
5 1/4” 4 way back doors (cut factory tweeters as they were played out)
6 1/2” skar sub mentioned above
Also added usb, and usbC to front console, above middle row cup holders, and at the tailgate and mounted an LED work light on a swivel to rear cargo area with rocker switch while I had the trim off to replace sub
JUST GOT THIS CODE FROM ROCKPALS
Here is a specified coupon code for the group member.
Link：Rockpals 330W Portable Power Station
Code：rockpals330 （20% off）
Available date： Oct.12- Oct. 15
Here is a specified coupon code for the group member.
Link：Rockpals 330W Portable Power Station
Code：rockpals330 （20% off）
Available date： Oct.12- Oct. 15
The wife and I cruised out to Black Mountain and Asheville for a long weekend. We were almost home today and Emily (the wife) begged to drive Dixie (our LX) the rest of the way back. It’s weird sitting in the passenger seat!
Yep I thought it would be a quick swap. Boy was I wrong. Wish I would have replaced the crank sensor while I was in there. Couple of tricks to the job, takes about 4 hours if things go well. A long flexhead wrench is key for removing the two starter bolts which is the hardest part.
Added two 15amp circuits to the back of the truck to plug in the refrigerator/freezer & other electronics as needed. Used the long flip up storage space on the passenger side, rear trim panel to hide/locate the two panels. One 15 amp with 12v plug, the other 15 amp with two 12v plug, one 4.8amp USB & one 2.1amp USB.
Used a Blue Sea 100 amp circuit breaker between the battery & Blue Sea 6 Circuit Fuse Block. Ran the (4) wires through the existing rubber grommet on the front passenger side firewall (did not have to drill or cut thru. the firewall), routed the wires along the door sills to the rear on the truck,
Tested it our on a trip to Central California a week ago, refrigerator worked flawlessly; was plugged in during the drive & plugged & powered during the stop at the SB zoo. 3 hour at the zoo, came back to the truck, refrigerator was still cooling, the battery was still reading +12v.
Next phase of the project is adding the dual battery to the truck with Blue Sea 500A ML-ARC switch.
Used a Blue Sea 100 amp circuit breaker between the battery & Blue Sea 6 Circuit Fuse Block. Ran the (4) wires through the existing rubber grommet on the front passenger side firewall (did not have to drill or cut thru. the firewall), routed the wires along the door sills to the rear on the truck,
Tested it our on a trip to Central California a week ago, refrigerator worked flawlessly; was plugged in during the drive & plugged & powered during the stop at the SB zoo. 3 hour at the zoo, came back to the truck, refrigerator was still cooling, the battery was still reading +12v.
Next phase of the project is adding the dual battery to the truck with Blue Sea 500A ML-ARC switch.
Hey all, long time listener and reader, I think I lost access to the email I originally used for my old account. So second time caller.
Also filled the tank pre-overnight trip to Flagstaff, in Flagstaff, and will likely fill up this Friday. I know we don't talk about it, but it's really the only downside of the hundy. Worst traffic I've ever experienced, left later than usual... but the amount of people going up north and the amount accidents turned a 2 hour drive into a 5 hour nightmare.
I have a mechanic who I may trust to do this for me, as I don't want to do it myself. Your 12 hours is actually on the lower end I've heard. It's an absolute beast of a job. Dealership quoted me something like $3500 to replace the gaskets. Definitely not going to them. Does the butt-dyno indicate a difference in power?
Also filled the tank pre-overnight trip to Flagstaff, in Flagstaff, and will likely fill up this Friday. I know we don't talk about it, but it's really the only downside of the hundy. Worst traffic I've ever experienced, left later than usual... but the amount of people going up north and the amount accidents turned a 2 hour drive into a 5 hour nightmare.
I have a mechanic who I may trust to do this for me, as I don't want to do it myself. Your 12 hours is actually on the lower end I've heard. It's an absolute beast of a job. Dealership quoted me something like $3500 to replace the gaskets. Definitely not going to them. Does the butt-dyno indicate a difference in power?
Finally had the opportunity to remove the timing belt, harmonic balancer, crankshaft gear and verify where the oil was seeping: the front crankshaft main seal? Anyone can confirm this maybe?
Now got to swing by later for some purple power degreaser to get this sludge cleaned and detailed before replacing that seal.
Now got to swing by later for some purple power degreaser to get this sludge cleaned and detailed before replacing that seal.
Prayers lifted. I just did this job about a month ago. Did the timing belt service and found the oil seepage about 50 miles afterwards. Had to take it back apart. Main seal was squished. Looks to be you have the same issue. Clean it out as well as you can. Also everywhere that main seal touches should be surgical quality clean. Have fun with it... as I was once told on the golf course “it’s like a carousel. You pay the quarter. You get on. The horse goes up and down and around. Circular.” No idea what that means but it seems to fit every time I crawl under my truck.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
Installing the mouldings over the rivets did nothing to lower the wind noise I'm chasing down. Oh well, at least I'm slowly returning the truck to completely OEM
Seems like everything is racially charged if that's what you're looking for. I'll try, but only since you specifically asked:
It just looks bad. The wheels are sweet but IMO don't work on a 100 at all, would be better on an older car/sedan (I'd love them for my W123 or W126). The spoiler looks weird and I feel it would effectively provide lift in the front. If I saw it in the real world I'd think to myself "why the fudge did this guy put a rear spoiler over his windshield?". The grill looks like it came off of a wizard-themed airbrushed van from the 80s where some Ms Budweiser 1979 would have lost her virignity to her slightly older uncle. (Does it count as offensive if I use a white/redneck stereotype, here?)
Really, between the wheels, running boards, mud flaps, grill, and front spoiler, you're really only a new paint job and a velour interior reskin away from bangin' your own Ms Budweiser 2020.
But if you like it then that's all that matters
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Replaced bent torsion bar adjuster bracket, changed oil, installed ASFIR skid plates.
