What did you work on tonight? (31 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Yes to both, also disconnected the pan hard bar. I’ve seen a bunch of people post that they used a ratchet strap or had to have someone stand on the axle to get them in. They’re no joke super tall lol. The spring compressor actually didn’t feel too bad since there was no shock in the middle of the spring interfering with the clamps. Fixed the seating on the driver side this morning also.
Wowza, that's a TALL spring :oops:
 
Dropped the FJ40 gas tank to figure out what was going on with the gauge sender, and deal with a few other issues. Found the sender float was not as floppy as I would expect, which could explain why it would stick on empty. Bought a different idea.
Donedeal. Gauge works.

fuel gauge.jpg
 
Last edited:
What she looks like now with 285/70R17 Duratracs and the new springs. This was still with the old tires loaded up inside.

A16A275E-0FC3-483E-89E7-8499DF30FFB9.jpeg
 
Spark plugs are making a big difference in the V8. It's running a lot quieter and the acceleration is more smooth. Two of the driver side plugs were only hand tight... now they're all torqued to spec. Got the coolant topped off and bled, engine bay cleaned up, new air filter, and will get a new Interstate battery tomorrow morning.

20210801_003220.jpg


IMG_20210801_145648_072.jpg
 
Finally ... fixed, modified, improved my auxiliary fuel tank on the 4Runner. After 30 years, plus, of sitting under the truck some of the hoses were in need of replacement. Plus, there was a valve on top of the tank that sat in a grommet. That grommet was toast, and the tank would leak when I filled it up.

The one improvement was removal of the donut-hole for the spare tire crank. Back in the day I ran a spare under the bed. The aux fuel tank was sandwiched between the frame and the spare. The result is when I dragged the tire, the aux tank would get caved in. After installing the Stout Equipment rear bumper, the spare tire was relocated.

So, with Virgil's mad welding skills, I pulled the tank, cut the bottom off, and removed the donut-hole. Virgil welded up the donut-hole, and a new bottom was installed. I really thought I was taking more pictures of this project. As it turned out, I hardly took any.

The bottom of the tank, before. You can see the donut-hole, and how the tank was caved in.

20210814_090144-sm.jpg


This was the tank on my xcab, which I believe was a larger tank. It shows the spare tire crank.

Aux Fuel Tank.JPG


The old and new evap valves. I went with an aftermarket valve, mostly because I wasn't sure what I had. Once removed from the tank, it turns out the valve was a Ford valve. It was much better constructed than the aftermarket. This valve was also used on a slew of Jeeps, in addition to a ton of Fords.

20210814_085950-sm.jpg


Tank reinstalled with the flat bottom.

20210825_191136-sm.jpg


On paper, removing the donut-hole will give me about an extra quart of fuel. Ya, not much, but I'll take it. I was also able to get rid of the spare tire crank that dangled down and clanked.
 
Last edited:
Curious, was the tank lined with some kind fuel rated epoxy or something?
 
Curious, was the tank lined with some kind fuel rated epoxy or something?
Not sure what was inside. It was gray, but not on the welds.
 
On paper, removing the donut-hole will give me about an extra quart of fuel. Ya, not much, but I'll take it. I was also able to get rid of the spare tire crank that dangled down and clanked.
Well, that worked out well. I filled up the tank and poured in 15.5 gallons (it's rated at 14 gallons), and it's not leaking out the top like it was.
 
Last edited:
You ever get rust inside the tank from welding?
 
Not really a huge project but I did a little cleaning, the fender flares were chalky and grey when I got them but I managed to make the black plastic come back to life. The 80 wheel, ome 906 springs, and the bilstiens I got from upull yesterday


31018188-B75D-4CF8-BE96-705C8EE0490F.jpeg


1A640E4C-0FF5-4969-8BE8-19DB5A944EFB.jpeg
 
It's not a Toyota but I did use some FIPG 102 to seal up the leaking dispenser hose where it attaches to the outer drum. Also replaced the door bellows. That was a challenging install and required 6 hands to hold things in place and get the clamp/band secured. The old bellows had several cracks/splits and the 10-year old washer was leaking a bunch.

Washer1.jpg


Washer2.jpg


Washer3.jpg


Washer4.jpg
 
Not really a huge project but I did a little cleaning, the fender flares were chalky and grey when I got them but I managed to make the black plastic come back to life. The 80 wheel, ome 906 springs, and the bilstiens I got from upull yesterday


View attachment 2784205

View attachment 2784206

I"m not quite sure what you drive, so would you mind updating your signature line with vehicle info? 5 speed addict and landcruiser aren't exactly mutually inclusive :rofl:
 
Replaced the power steering rack and all related hoses in the 4Runner. Not a fun project but it was time at 373k miles. Action hose did all hose brazing work. OEM hoses were just too expensive. Rack doctor rebuilt the extra rack.

20210921_074922.jpg


20210921_172551.jpg
 
Replaced the power steering rack and all related hoses in the 4Runner. Not a fun project but it was time at 373k miles. Action hose did all hose brazing work. OEM hoses were just too expensive. Rack doctor rebuilt the extra rack.

How's the improvement? I'm still on my OEM rack at 210k and debating whether its worth the couple hundred for a new rack?
I have quite a bit of play, but I'm not convinced that its all coming from the rack (my outer tie rods are also in bad shape.)
 
I have no improvements to report as I had no issues as far as play or leaks or anything of that sort. The rack simply made a creaking sound whenever either of the wheels were moving up and down, I could replicate The sound by simply driving over a speed bump or getting in and out of the vehicle. That is the main reason why I went and did this fun exercise. Additionally, the hoses were rock hard and I did not want to have an issue in the middle of nowhere while out wheeling.

It goes without saying, we should change our ATF every 10,000 miles or so because they do get work pretty hard when we are operating it with low tire air pressure for hours on end. Mine we're quite dark red, shame on me for not paying attention.
 
Last edited:
Replaced the power steering rack and all related hoses in the 4Runner. Not a fun project but it was time at 373k miles. Action hose did all hose brazing work. OEM hoses were just too expensive. Rack doctor rebuilt the extra rack.
I’ll be interested to see how the reman works out for you. I had 4 different remans in the 3rd gen and none of them lasted more than 6 months. The first one was from Toyota and the rest were from Napa since it had a lifetime warranty. Once I replaced the reman with a NEW Toyota rack the poop fest stop…@Dumpolina

edit: make that 2 Toyota remans…the first one was warranted
 
Rebuilt my Icon coilovers. Overall not terrible, just time consuming and can get messy if you’re careless. Converted to extended travel and installed 14” 700lb springs. Rides loads better than before!

56398C77-40B5-461D-98DA-1332B1251074.jpeg


60EBD4D5-51A1-4187-8778-826DBDF9FF58.jpeg


49CECA47-A982-4382-AA1B-3401EEA9186D.jpeg
 
Difference in preload from 13” 650lb springs to 14” 700lb springs for same ride height. I was blowing through the travel before just daily driving lol.

AA6C1F29-91B9-4FAD-9EFA-7FDB9C297516.jpeg


F7C5BC30-D359-4DC7-BB4C-FBE1FAA437E5.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom