What did you work on tonight? (2 Viewers)

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Dropped the FJ40 gas tank to figure out what what going on with the gauge sender, and deal with a few other issues. Found the sender float was not as floppy as I would expect, which could explain why it would stick on empty. Bought a different idea. Also, found some of the fuel hoses were brittle, so they will get replaced. I've also decided to remount the fuel pump.

New fuel gauge sender on top, the tube thing. Autometer fuel sender below that.

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The mess on the floor.

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Finished the table for my wife. She got herself one of those new fangled highfalutin work from home gigs and needed a place to put her computer and get it off of her stained glass workbench.

She wanted something simple, but nothing I do ever turns out that way. View attachment 2720427View attachment 2720430

Using some lift mechanisms made for coffee tables I made it so the top can be raised so she can stand and work.

She likes the look of the raw steel. After sanding with a 120 grit flap wheel I clear coated it. The top is maple veneer plywood.
You do such nice work, and you have a great design perspective. I really like this!
 
You do such nice work, and you have a great design perspective. I really like this!
Thank you! The designing starts when I start building. Never really know what anything I do will look like until its done.

The original idea was a 2"x2" square tube frame and legs with a plywood top.
 
Only liked to unlike. Those things are a bear to get in and out!
I just fixed MY dreaded GX470 ticking manifold. Only one side had cracked, but I bought a pair of Doug Thorley short headers, and had a good local shop remove the original two manifolds / primary cats, reweld them onto the Thorley headers, and install them. It was an $800 bill for the labor, plus $800 for the headers. Paying for shop install saved me a lot of swearing; the fitment was not easy.

The DT headers are beautifully made, and should last the life of the car. I hope.

This is a more permanent solution than waiting for each OEM weld to fail. It may offer a bit more throttle response as well, but too early to tell.
 
I got my Scion back from the collision center with a new OEM bumper cover and paint match, courtesy of the other driver's insurance policy.

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New lower right control arm because I tore the bushing last October. It's taken this long to get moved to Tucson and set up shop so that I could get the work done.

Also put in a 1/2" strut assembly spacer for the full 3" lift up front.

Edit - forgot to mention the LCAs are replaced under warranty from Rockauto. They are made by Beck Arnley. I know there are better options but this is the solution for now.

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Did Moog warranty out the old one?
 
Did Moog warranty out the old one?

Rock Auto gave me an authorized replacement for the one they had in stock. I'm going to check the other side today and if it's just as bad, send it in for their inspection for warranty replacement. My alignment guy only spec'd the right side being bad, and that's the side that feels soft when turning. I made a video of me moving the whole loose bushing around with a 3/8" bar.
 
eeeewww, that's nasty! I'm trying to think if this thing exists on my 1fzfe but can't recall ever seeing it.
 
eeeewww, that's nasty! I'm trying to think if this thing exists on my 1fzfe but can't recall ever seeing it.
If you did it would be on the bottom of your throttle body. Both my 22RE and 3RZ have something like that (idle speed control valve). I recall being able to remove it, but I don't recall anything other than that.
 
eeeewww, that's nasty! I'm trying to think if this thing exists on my 1fzfe but can't recall ever seeing it.
Totally nasty. I’m imagining it’s almost 30 years of add-water-only type maintenance. In other words, it’s probably never been fully flushed but only topped off.
This cavity is on the underside of the manifold. Coolant goes through the throttle body, insulator/isolator and out through the nipple in the center of the plate.
I drained the radiator right after discovering this and it ran fairly clean. I’m eager to do a proper flush to purge the block.
 
Installed Mercedes-Benz horns (2) in the old girl. It now toots with authority. Now, I just need to make it scoot with authority.

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Prepped for a fresh intake manifold gasket with the added bonus of de-sludging the water bypass circuit. Needless to say, I'm glad I chose to do this while waiting for some last bits for the carb.

WTF!!! 😧
 
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Totally nasty. I’m imagining it’s almost 30 years of add-water-only type maintenance. In other words, it’s probably never been fully flushed but only topped off.
This cavity is on the underside of the manifold. Coolant goes through the throttle body, insulator/isolator and out through the nipple in the center of the plate.
I drained the radiator right after discovering this and it ran fairly clean. I’m eager to do a proper flush to purge the block.
Ok, I don't have that configuration!!
 
Installed Mercedes-Benz horns (2) in the old girl. It now toots with authority. Now, I just need to make it scoot with authority.

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You’ve moved from the pacific theater to the European theater.
Does it have a different accent now?
 
You’ve moved from the pacific theater to the European theater.
Does it have a different accent now?
:rofl:

Yep, still sounds like crap, though.
 
I need a second or third opinion on this bushing. The rubber is totally fine. No movement when I pry with a breaker bar.

The metal tab looks like it got bent by the alignment ears. It seems to me this would happen no matter what. I seriously doubt RockAuto would warranty this.

I have time to get a new one if they do, or I might be SOL and they keep my money on a new part order.

Update: I reinstalled the LCA and set the alignment back to my witness marks with the wheels on the ground. It's fine, probably. If not, I can replace the bushing when I install LCA skids next upgrade.

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