What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (48 Viewers)

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Made it home from our epic trip. Some stats for those interested.
Total Miles: - 6118
Fuel Used: - 388.41 Gallons
Fuel Cost: - $1,156.40
Average MPG: - 15.75
Best MPG: - 18.1 (I29 NB with a tail wind)
Worst MPG: - 6.5 (any of the trails we did)
Cheapest Fuel: - $2.64 (Georgia)
Dearest Fuel: - $3.55 (Moab)
Number of States: - 17
Number of Trails completed: 3
Number of Bison spotted: - 1
Number of B2 Bombers spotted: - 1

Truck rolled through 333333 miles during the trip. Almost no oil burned during the whole trip. No issues with the truck with the exception of some new pin stripes and slider that twisted slightly while doing its job.

Next time out I will definitely have some drawers. The drawers on my '94 meant I had significantly less boxes stacked in the back. Playing campsite Tetris has limited fun. I also missed a gauge for outside ambient temperature.

To air up the 315's after a trail I had brought along a little 110v compressor I picked up from Harbor Freight for about $150. It has a 2 gallon tank and is almost silent. The boy could bring all 4 tires from 15psi to 35psi in less time than it took me to finish a beer. I will make some attempt to disassemble the component parts so I can install them more efficiently.

The overall trip was nothing short of fantastic. I could spend months touring Wyoming, Montana, Arizona & New Mexico. Tennessee reminded me of home.

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Ok finally found a quick way to change out the IACV (idle air control valve), after a major PM I did on a 94 Fzj80 I had a terrible low idle, after some trouble shooting figured the IACV was giving me issues. I did not want to pull the throttle body so I figured I could get that lower screw off with some new tools. I purchased a 1/4 drive metric bolt extractor set and a JIS bit set along with a tiny ratcheting 90 screwdriver. I used a 1/4 wobbly socket on the 8.5mm screw extractor and a 6” 1/4 drive extension and was able to get the bottom screw loose. I used some kroil penetrating oil and was unable to get the screw loose with just JiS bit hence the extractor used. Truck is back to high idle on cold start and idling perfect at 650-700RPM. Mission success. I used a newer IACV of a 97 part #22270-66010. New O-ring part number for IACV 9007960004.

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Have a pretty good leak in the power steering vane pump (it sat for over 4 years, don't think that helped) so ordered a new replacement from an online Toyota dealer. Received it exactly as shown. Who ever "packaged" it needs to have a rectal cranial extraction procedure. Just notified them that they owe me a new one...

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I was quickly reminded of why you should always look over the work you just did when a new problem arises

Daughter who dailies the hdj81 says dad, I'm getting a vibration above 65 on the highway, its new.

I start going through scenarios. Driveline? Maybe I've never serviced it. Wheel bearings? Probably not, they were serviced maybe 20k ago. Front end is all new as of last summer.

Then I remembered she had a flat. And had a nail removed. So the tire shop dismounted the tire. I said take it in. Tell them to balance and rotate all 4 tires


Problem solved.
 
Ok finally found a quick way to change out the IACV (idle air control valve), after a major PM I did on a 94 Fzj80 I had a terrible low idle, after some trouble shooting figured the IACV was giving me issues. I did not want to pull the throttle body so I figured I could get that lower screw off with some new tools. I purchased a 1/4 drive metric bolt extractor set and a JIS bit set along with a tiny ratcheting 90 screwdriver. I used a 1/4 wobbly socket on the 8.5mm screw extractor and a 6” 1/4 drive extension and was able to get the bottom screw loose. I used some kroil penetrating oil and was unable to get the screw loose with just JiS bit hence the extractor used. Truck is back to high idle on cold start and idling perfect at 650-700RPM. Mission success. I used a newer IACV of a 97 part #22270-66010. New O-ring part number for IACV 9007960004.

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That lower screw is a PITA
 
How about a chain wrench?
Tried it. No joy as it proved to be a PITA to get the links to line up where you need them with the space provided. Also, no room to turn afterwards. I ended up getting it out with some medieval filter removing device that my father-in-law had buried deep in the abyss of his ancient toolbox.
 
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I disagree with them that factory lockers are worth more. Aftermarket lockers are much more reliable at this point.
I don't think they were stating that aftermarket lockers don't work better, we all know they do, I think they were attempting to state that rigs equipped with 3X factory Toyota lockers are worth more than those without.
 
Ok finally found a quick way to change out the IACV (idle air control valve), after a major PM I did on a 94 Fzj80 I had a terrible low idle, after some trouble shooting figured the IACV was giving me issues. I did not want to pull the throttle body so I figured I could get that lower screw off with some new tools. I purchased a 1/4 drive metric bolt extractor set and a JIS bit set along with a tiny ratcheting 90 screwdriver. I used a 1/4 wobbly socket on the 8.5mm screw extractor and a 6” 1/4 drive extension and was able to get the bottom screw loose. I used some kroil penetrating oil and was unable to get the screw loose with just JiS bit hence the extractor used. Truck is back to high idle on cold start and idling perfect at 650-700RPM. Mission success. I used a newer IACV of a 97 part #22270-66010. New O-ring part number for IACV 9007960004.

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I have a 91, but the idea is the same. I use an impact screwdriver to break it loose. Less risk of stripping out that head.
 
Fishing trip
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I always check my locker before heading out.
A couple of years ago I was heading out to run the Fordyce trail checked the locker and all was good.
Headed down the trail. At the first obstacle the rear locker would not engage. Ran the first day with just the front locker tell we got to winch hill 1 it was late in the afternoon and there’s a great place to camp at the bottom.
Winch hill 1
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Camp site at the bottom
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The next morning I manually locked the rear locker and ran the next two days and the rest of the trail with the rear locker engaged.
Winch hill 1

That looks like an amazing trip. And thanks for sharing a real life story about manual locker engagement. Back then Toyota just did things differently if they gave you the option to manually engage the locker in case of a solenoid failure or other malfunction.
 
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Made @coolcarsonpch @cooltoyotasonpch IG page, when he spotted us on PCH over the 4th weekend.
 
Ok finally found a quick way to change out the IACV (idle air control valve), after a major PM I did on a 94 Fzj80 I had a terrible low idle, after some trouble shooting figured the IACV was giving me issues. I did not want to pull the throttle body so I figured I could get that lower screw off with some new tools. I purchased a 1/4 drive metric bolt extractor set and a JIS bit set along with a tiny ratcheting 90 screwdriver. I used a 1/4 wobbly socket on the 8.5mm screw extractor and a 6” 1/4 drive extension and was able to get the bottom screw loose. I used some kroil penetrating oil and was unable to get the screw loose with just JiS bit hence the extractor used. Truck is back to high idle on cold start and idling perfect at 650-700RPM. Mission success. I used a newer IACV of a 97 part #22270-66010. New O-ring part number for IACV 9007960004.

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Awesome info! I actually have the same exact symptoms and purchased a new IACV from the newer model as you suggested. I have to dig it up from my pile of parts and install it. I do not recall ever ordering any new O-rings. Do you happen to know if a new IACV would already come with the o-ring on it?
 
Awesome info! I actually have the same exact symptoms and purchased a new IACV from the newer model as you suggested. I have to dig it up from my pile of parts and install it. I do not recall ever ordering any new O-rings. Do you happen to know if a new IACV would already come with the o-ring
I have a 91, but the idea is the same. I use an impact screwdriver to break it loose. Less risk of stripping out that head.
you have a 3fe different mounting position. No special tools needed for that except maybe a JIS bit. The 1fzfe is extremely tight and I have never seen anybody post about successfully removing it with out removing the throttle body.
 
Awesome info! I actually have the same exact symptoms and purchased a new IACV from the newer model as you suggested. I have to dig it up from my pile of parts and install it. I do not recall ever ordering any new O-rings. Do you happen to know if a new IACV would already come with the o-ring on it?
I have never ordered a new one I would bet it does not come with one.
 
In the continued baseline I'm doing on my new to me 80, this week I did a cooling system refresh. New aisin water pump as the aftermarket one it came with had a tiny bit of bearing play, new OEM thermostat and associated gaskets/hardware, all three new OEM radiator hoses, replaced all of the heater/water pump bypass/oil cooler hoses along the front and bottom of the engine (need to make another parts list for the molded ones at the firewall). Installed a used OEM fan shroud since the rig didn't come with one. I had planned on replacing all the tie rod ends as well but I screwed up and ordered a kit for rhd. Luckily for me cruiser outfitters is taking care of me and getting that swapped out. No pics of the work taking place but I did take one of the sweet ass sticker I got with my order. Also, my most recent tank of gas got me 12.15 mpg which isn't anything to brag about but falls in line with what these rigs average and is a good 30% increase from the 9.6 mpg I got with my first tank before I started doing any work on it. I've been dd'ing this thing since I got it and I'm loving it!

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Boognish!
 
Awesome info! I actually have the same exact symptoms and purchased a new IACV from the newer model as you suggested. I have to dig it up from my pile of parts and install it. I do not recall ever ordering any new O-rings. Do you happen to know if a new IACV would already come with the o-ring on it?
Can confirm that the IACV does NOT come with the o-ring. Installed a new one on my wife’s 80 not that long ago.

Add the o-ring to your parts stash before pulling the old valve.
 

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