Worse - Amazon-special aluminum spacers@bmac1996acc Are "death spacers" just a big stack of washers at each wheel stud?
For the collective: Are there specific paint codes for the TRD stripes? The yellow, orange and red?
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Worse - Amazon-special aluminum spacers@bmac1996acc Are "death spacers" just a big stack of washers at each wheel stud?
For the collective: Are there specific paint codes for the TRD stripes? The yellow, orange and red?
Sweet...where did you get that unit? I bet you can actually see the lights now. Mine seem to be only visible at night.
Sourced all the parts via dealsership diagram and ordered on partsouq, I can say that the clear lenses are now actually clear and highly visible compared to the old yellow sun ridden buttonsSweet...where did you get that unit? I bet you can actually see the lights now. Mine seem to be only visible at night.
Thanks bud! The wheels are silver actually tho.Good looking rig dude. I dig the white wheels and the bumper. The lights look awesome.
Yours and @Somebodyelse5 carriers look better than mine after my 5 minute rattle can job.Bellfab spare tire carrier, Problem solved..
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Problem solved! Turns out one of the bolts securing the seatbelt mechanism to the frame is a great grounding point. And the location was ideal for easily running the wire through the same grommets used by the window/lock wiring and hiding it all behind the trim piece on the pillar between the front and rear doors.While replacing my left rear power window, I decided to give the door some TLC in general. Removed the panel and cleaned the door inside and out, made sure drains were clear, installed some KILMAT, replaced the vapor barrier (thanks to @Delta VS ) and butyl tape (thanks to MUD threads for explaining what that stuff was, lol).
While snagging the vapor barriers on the Delta website, I saw the little rear ashtray replacement with USB ports. I figured while I was inside the door I'd go ahead and install that and give backseat passengers some phone-charging love. It came with clear instructions from Delta, but after getting it all installed, no power to the USB. I checked the fuse and the self-stripping splice terminal and connector, all good.
Turns out it's the ground. The location the instructions gave to connect the ground wire just isn't a good spot. In fact I could find no good grounding spot anywhere on or in the door itself. Even after stripping a spot down to bare metal the most I could get on the meter was 6v. I'm not an electrical guy by any stretch, but I'm guessing that this is because the door metal doesn't have a good solid path to the, well, ground via the frame. When I test with the multi-meter negative touching a bare metal spot on the body, such as the screws on the door striker, I get a strong 12v and the USB powers up.
So my question is this: any of you know of a fairly simple way to get a well-grounded wire into the door frame that doesn't involve me tearing into the interior/carpet too much?
In hindsight it probably would have been easier to just put ports in the back of the center console and use the ground point that I understand is easily accessible under the console. But this little ashtray replacement is so well designed and great use of that space without having to cut holes in stuff. I'd really like to use it, if possible.
****. That looks really goodBellfab spare tire carrier, Problem solved..
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What did you recharge with?
Just the R134a they sell at Autozone in the really plain looking white cans. I can’t remember the brand, but it’s what I’ve always used.What did you recharge with?
You’re my hero. I already have a tough time keeping my two 80’s clean. Can’t imagine maintaining that many 80’s.Washed, vacuumed, all of them. Started waxing one. Then it rained. Figure the odds of that.
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Went to Cruise Moab. Didn’t get many pics. Having to much fun wheeling!
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Wondering if you (or anyone else who's replacing a rear bumper) would be interested in parting with some of your stock bumper components? I plan to stay stock but would like to replace a couple pieces. Namely the aluminum step plate and the left (U.S. driver side) plastic molding.Installed this ARB rear bumper yesterday. Easy peasy as I’ve done several. The directions appear to only be good for starting fire with.
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s*** got cold!Just the R134a they sell at Autozone in the really plain looking white cans. I can’t remember the brand, but it’s what I’ve always used.
Doesn't look bad to me, other than the pitting at the end of the shaft but, LOOK AT THE ANGLE OF THE JACK STAND ON THE FRONT AXLE ! ! !Bought rig a few years ago and put a donor motor into it. Getting around to pulling 3rd members for 4.88 gears and Eaton e-locker install. While doing that it felt appropriate to change all the bearings and seals since I am slowly getting it all back into shape for the season. Rear axle inner oil seals seem to have failed at some point and so not much difference between fluid in diff and what should be grease on bearings/ in hubs.
Rebuild Kits for rear, front, and 3rds from CruiserTeq.
Taking my time, picture was sunday morning and since then I got birfields out and starting cleaning everything up. Will be dropping off the 3rd members and gears to a local shop today for professional install. Hopefully everything cleaned up and back in before the weekend but more likely by the end of weekend.
A Question, if folks see this, about my rear shafts (pictured). This isn't bad is it? Seal seems to have smoothed over the surface but doesn't really have a lip or edge to it. Any other thoughts on why axle seals failed? Just time and high miles, rig has 350k but not sure about shafts? Diff breather clogged? How long can the bearings go with just diff oil? Do OEM shafts often have casting visible like I have or are they usually 100% machine finished?
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