What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (94 Viewers)
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Mn rock crawling.
SteelHunterFJ80
SILVER Star
Agreed, I went with a smittybilt 10k and think warns are overpriced. The smittybilt beat it in an Australian shoot outWhy are you even questioning your purchase? The reviews on that unit are awesome. I know your scared what the neighbors might think.
perrobravo
SILVER Star
Installed a PDI air to air intercooler in hopes of lower EGTs, more fuel and boost opportunities, and the option to drag race this thing on weekends...or maybe venture over to the lanes on the left more frequently.
All the shiny things in this picture are from PDI...more details of the installation here.
All the shiny things in this picture are from PDI...more details of the installation here.
Finished up the rear brakes finally. Completely rebuilt the parking brakes, new rear OEM calipers, new rotors, new hoses with Slee extended stainless steel lines from the body to axles in preparation for the lift.
I’m doing the same thing, diodes arrive tomorrow. I’ve never soldered but we’ll see how it goes.
I did both front belts on my 80 using Safety Restore. Quality is OEM, and SO nice to have perfect new seatbelts! My driver one was shredded when I bought my 80. Never saw one that bad.
Repaired the drivers side rear door lock actuator. Replaced the little motor inside the actuator with one from Solvefunction . I used JB Weld to secure the worm gear to the shaft. I used a file to ruff up the shaft so the JB would have something to grip (unsure if this was needed). Also, be sure and wire up the motor according to how the wires are oriented on the old motor and not by color. Test before putting everything back together. If the wires are wrong, door will lock while unlocking and unlock while locking. Ask me how I know
Wires:
View attachment 2372287
Added a little hot glue to seal up the two wires:
View attachment 2372291
@DannyG Sorry if this is covered already, but how did you remove the worm gear from the old motor?
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I installed this little gem that I got out of a pull-n-pay for a whopping $6.87!! No more dual hazard switches!
Finally cleaned the under side of my hood!!
Half way.
Done..
Half way.
Done..
Just pressed the gear off using a small pair of pliers. The hard part was getting the gear to hold on the new shaft. I basically hit the new shaft with a file to put a bit of a flat side on it. Then used a bit of JB wield to hold it. Be sure and put the gear on the new shaft close to where it was on the old shaft.
Hope this helps.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
I’m not proud of this but it was necessary for the time being.
This turbo truck lived in South Carolina for 22 years before I bought it drove it to the West Coast. Now I say this because rust is a crazy real issue for non-west coast trucks but I got lucky.
One of the things that eventually needs to be take care of is the roof rack residual rust. The truck is mostly perfect except for the rust on the OEM lame ass roof rack. So f’ing annoying. Everyone has to to deal with this at some level. Three of the legs were fine but passenger front shoes signs of rust under the paint. Boo. I’ll have to deal with that later.
For now I just need to deal with the existing holes where the factory rivnuts are in the roof. Each needs to be dealt with before the rain starts. I took the easy way out for the time being. I just used EXTRA wide button head screws with UV stable rubber washers. The ID of the washers need to go around the outside of the rivnuts because they sit proud of the roof. The flanged stainless bolts need to squeeze the rubber washer to create a positive seal to prevent water intrusion. It’s not super sexy but it absolutely solves the issue until I can take care of the rust at another time in the very distant future
This turbo truck lived in South Carolina for 22 years before I bought it drove it to the West Coast. Now I say this because rust is a crazy real issue for non-west coast trucks but I got lucky.
One of the things that eventually needs to be take care of is the roof rack residual rust. The truck is mostly perfect except for the rust on the OEM lame ass roof rack. So f’ing annoying. Everyone has to to deal with this at some level. Three of the legs were fine but passenger front shoes signs of rust under the paint. Boo. I’ll have to deal with that later.
For now I just need to deal with the existing holes where the factory rivnuts are in the roof. Each needs to be dealt with before the rain starts. I took the easy way out for the time being. I just used EXTRA wide button head screws with UV stable rubber washers. The ID of the washers need to go around the outside of the rivnuts because they sit proud of the roof. The flanged stainless bolts need to squeeze the rubber washer to create a positive seal to prevent water intrusion. It’s not super sexy but it absolutely solves the issue until I can take care of the rust at another time in the very distant future
And now we must ALL ask:I’m not proud of this but it was necessary for the time being.
This turbo truck lived in South Carolina for 22 years before I bought it drove it to the West Coast. Now I say this because rust is a crazy real issue for non-west coast trucks but I got lucky.
One of the things that eventually needs to be take care of is the roof rack residual rust. The truck is mostly perfect except for the rust on the OEM lame ass roof rack. So f’ing annoying. Everyone has to to deal with this at some level. Three of the legs were fine but passenger front shoes signs of rust under the paint. Boo. I’ll have to deal with that later.
For now I just need to deal with the existing holes where the factory rivnuts are in the roof. Each needs to be dealt with before the rain starts. I took the easy way out for the time being. I just used EXTRA wide button head screws with UV stable rubber washers. The ID of the washers need to go around the outside of the rivnuts because they sit proud of the roof. The flanged stainless bolts need to squeeze the rubber washer to create a positive seal to prevent water intrusion. It’s not super sexy but it absolutely solves the issue until I can take care of the rust at another time in the very distant future
View attachment 2423628View attachment 2423629View attachment 2423631View attachment 2423632
Are those on your website yet? Because we are all too lazy to actually repair our own as well and would rather remove the Roof Rack and plug the holes with these and deal with the actual problem in the distant future.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Pulled door panel to repair broken handle. Son's truck...
Hopefully patch will hold...
Because I honestly have wanted to remove my roof rack but didn't want to take the time to figure out the hardware and gaskets AFTER I remove the rack. It rains too much here for that.dammit. I hadn’t considered it. I do have tons of spares
Let us know when it's up as a complete "kit".
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
Big day today! Cummins build 2.0 has begun.
I have been waiting all summer for the weather to get out of the 100’s so this job wouldn’t be a miserable affair. Forecast for today was a high of 85...perfect.
@bryson came over at 11am to start turning some wrench with me. Goal was to get as far as possible today, we ended up getting more done than I thought we would.
Pulled the front bumper, winch, lights, grill, core support, condenser, radiator, intercooler and lower valance.
Got and the plumbing and electrical disconnected, shifters removed, driveshafts off, hood off, 2 crossmembers pulled, motor mounts out of the way and slid the big Cummins donk, trans and xfer case out of the engine bay as one unit. Always a bit sketchy lifting that much weight 7 feet in the air.
We separated the trans from the engine and got the motor mounted onto my purpose built engine stand ready for surgery.
We then cleaned up all the tools and figured well it’s still daylight, so also pulled the rear Slee bumper off. She is almost ready for the next phase of build 2.0.
It is soo much nicer working on cruisers with a friend than by yourself, it’s fun, keeps the motivation going, and you make so much more progress in a short period of time. Thanks again for spending the day getting greasy @bryson!
I have been waiting all summer for the weather to get out of the 100’s so this job wouldn’t be a miserable affair. Forecast for today was a high of 85...perfect.
@bryson came over at 11am to start turning some wrench with me. Goal was to get as far as possible today, we ended up getting more done than I thought we would.
Pulled the front bumper, winch, lights, grill, core support, condenser, radiator, intercooler and lower valance.
Got and the plumbing and electrical disconnected, shifters removed, driveshafts off, hood off, 2 crossmembers pulled, motor mounts out of the way and slid the big Cummins donk, trans and xfer case out of the engine bay as one unit. Always a bit sketchy lifting that much weight 7 feet in the air.
We separated the trans from the engine and got the motor mounted onto my purpose built engine stand ready for surgery.
We then cleaned up all the tools and figured well it’s still daylight, so also pulled the rear Slee bumper off. She is almost ready for the next phase of build 2.0.
It is soo much nicer working on cruisers with a friend than by yourself, it’s fun, keeps the motivation going, and you make so much more progress in a short period of time. Thanks again for spending the day getting greasy @bryson!
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