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Agreed, I went with a smittybilt 10k and think warns are overpriced. The smittybilt beat it in an Australian shoot outWhy are you even questioning your purchase? The reviews on that unit are awesome. I know your scared what the neighbors might think.![]()
Another one to add to the list of crap that four people might find useful. Redid all my battery cables and cleaned up all the loom. But I made the starter cable longer to keep it looser and decided to use the little useless tab on the charcoal canister as a clamp for the battery cable.
You know that useless piece of metal hanging off the bracket on the charcoal canister? I wanted it to be slightly less useless. Does the job perfectly.
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I’m doing the same thing, diodes arrive tomorrow. I’ve never soldered but we’ll see how it goes.Hopefully fixing the third brake light..... if the diode ever gets delivered
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I did both front belts on my 80 using Safety Restore. Quality is OEM, and SO nice to have perfect new seatbelts! My driver one was shredded when I bought my 80. Never saw one that bad.Thanks! I only did the driver side. Quality is nice, and it retracts! Lots of Mud members have recommended Safety Restore.
Repaired the drivers side rear door lock actuator. Replaced the little motor inside the actuator with one from Solvefunction . I used JB Weld to secure the worm gear to the shaft. I used a file to ruff up the shaft so the JB would have something to grip (unsure if this was needed). Also, be sure and wire up the motor according to how the wires are oriented on the old motor and not by color. Test before putting everything back together. If the wires are wrong, door will lock while unlocking and unlock while locking. Ask me how I know
Wires:
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Added a little hot glue to seal up the two wires:
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Just pressed the gear off using a small pair of pliers. The hard part was getting the gear to hold on the new shaft. I basically hit the new shaft with a file to put a bit of a flat side on it. Then used a bit of JB wield to hold it. Be sure and put the gear on the new shaft close to where it was on the old shaft.@DannyG Sorry if this is covered already, but how did you remove the worm gear from the old motor?
And now we must ALL ask:I’m not proud of this but it was necessary for the time being.
This turbo truck lived in South Carolina for 22 years before I bought it drove it to the West Coast. Now I say this because rust is a crazy real issue for non-west coast trucks but I got lucky.
One of the things that eventually needs to be take care of is the roof rack residual rust. The truck is mostly perfect except for the rust on the OEM lame ass roof rack. So f’ing annoying. Everyone has to to deal with this at some level. Three of the legs were fine but passenger front shoes signs of rust under the paint. Boo. I’ll have to deal with that later.
For now I just need to deal with the existing holes where the factory rivnuts are in the roof. Each needs to be dealt with before the rain starts. I took the easy way out for the time being. I just used EXTRA wide button head screws with UV stable rubber washers. The ID of the washers need to go around the outside of the rivnuts because they sit proud of the roof. The flanged stainless bolts need to squeeze the rubber washer to create a positive seal to prevent water intrusion. It’s not super sexy but it absolutely solves the issue until I can take care of the rust at another time in the very distant future
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And now we must ALL ask:
Are those on your website yet? Because we are all too lazy to actually repair our own as well and would rather remove the Roof Rack and plug the holes with these and deal with the actual problem in the distant future.
Because I honestly have wanted to remove my roof rack but didn't want to take the time to figure out the hardware and gaskets AFTER I remove the rack. It rains too much here for that.dammit. I hadn’t considered it. I do have tons of spares![]()