Nope, I assumed you lived in Sedona/Flagstaff area.You WANT to go to Minneapolis?
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Nope, I assumed you lived in Sedona/Flagstaff area.You WANT to go to Minneapolis?
Save your Denso and rebuild it w/ Toyota parts.Day before we were to leave on a 500 mile weekend road trip I get stranded in a grocery store parking lot.My daughter (16) reluctantly came to provide a jump start. Was a good opportunity to walk her through the correct procedure. She was understandably grumpy about it, since it was about 98 degrees out at the time...but one day she'll be thankful, lol...
Once jumped, headed over to Autozone to have battery and alternator tested, and BOTH tested bad! Ugh. Snagged a new battery, but they couldn't get an alternator for a few days.
I grabbed an Ultima reman alternator from O'Reilly and spent the afternoon replacing. I've read lots of negative stuff about the Ultima's on this thread, but it was the only one available quick enough that I'd stand a chance of same-day replacement.
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Never replaced one before, but was fairly straight forward all the way until the very end when the tensioner bolt gave me fits! Took me FOREVER to get things lined up where all three bolts would hit their holes and thread smoothly. But finally got it done.
Based on the stories I've read, seems there's a good chance this alternator won't last. The one I took out is an OEM Denso built in '04. Lasted 15 years, not too shabby. Rather than turn it in for the core refund, I'm thinking of holding on to it and learning how to reman it myself. Any thoughts on that? For those who have done this before, how difficult/expensive is the process?
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My truck operates no more than 195 on any given day. Then dragging this trailer, it hit 221. Just that little bit of extra work pushed it beyond its capability to stay cool. I was rather surprised by that.got a modded blue fan, also have just added foam around the radiator, also fresh coolant. The radiator was swapped out by PO but can't tell what brand it is, but me thinks it's inefficient brand (looks OE). I run 185-190 regularly and winter time it's 177F (i even add a rad blocker) but anything hot the rad can't seem to keep up.
i wish it wasn't, for now i just enjoy reading thru the build threads here.
Next big one would be some gearing, either 4.88s or TC gearing. I had to go thru Monarch Pass in CO, and a car in front of me decided to slow down right before the climb which dropped my RPM to 3K. Well, there was no climbing past 3K rpm for the total 7miles to the peak. The speed limit is 45mph and the fastest it got was 40mph so i'm not too far from it. I almost never take pics of paved road pass peak signs but i was so damn happy i was able to get on top i had to take one, and bought a sticker to say we did it
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yup owning an ultragauge is good and bad, i probably spend more time looking at it than the road.My truck operates no more than 195 on any given day. Then dragging this trailer, it hit 221. Just that little bit of extra work pushed it beyond its capability to stay cool. I was rather surprised by that.
I have an UltraGauge and I watch it like a hawk. My voltages and temps are always on my mind. It recently helped me diagnose a bad O2 sensor.
I am going to buy a "factory" hub and see if it makes any difference.
If yours isn't warming up (177) you may want to consider replacing the T-Stat, as it appears to be sticking open. Covering the radiator is a band-aid for a bad T-Stat. (I'm from NW Iowa, I know what cold is....)
My cooling system was rebuilt with a TRad radiator (Toyota) in late 2014 and 100K ago. It's time for new coolant and to replace the "wear" parts again as PM. The water pump was replaced at 145K and I now have 316K on it. The fan hub is original.
I feel you on the 4.88s as they're on my list. I just took the approach of I'll get to the top when I get there. It's really depressing though when the big rigs move out of the truck lane that you're in with them to go around you![]()
This has certainly given me a new appreciation for what those folks in the hot areas have to deal with. I cannot imagine the fight for this all the time.I'm sure the Arizona folks are just laughing at us for stressing out on this one.
Well you've definitely got all the things covered. Yup, wheeling in FL summer and driving around in traffic, never wanted to climb high. Highest temps I see sitting in traffic is maybe 192-194 momentarily. To be fair, even going up a mountain pass this weekend to GSMTR in western NC, my temp climbed above 200 and that needle gauge didn't even budge.Well I recently did the head gasket. New radiator, new water pump, new thermostat, rear heater bypass, cleaned out the oil cooler. Shes all updated with pink coolant even. Newer fan clutch with new fan blade. My torq app sounded a high temperature alarm. The dash gauge never went over hf way.
You see those temps 186-190 on a hot day in traffic with AC on? 186-190 is my normal operating temp
The needle is so deceiving. Same thing with oil pressure gauge I hear. Only thing I havent tried is the blue fan clutch oil mod. Could try and burp the coolant system some more.Well you've definitely got all the things covered. Yup, wheeling in FL summer and driving around in traffic, never wanted to climb high. Highest temps I see sitting in traffic is maybe 192-194 momentarily. To be fair, even going up a mountain pass this weekend to GSMTR in western NC, my temp climbed above 200 and that needle gauge didn't even budge.
How are you going to get into the QP with the plywood on? I had to remove mine to get it to flex enough to fit. Okay, better question, how are you routing power to the unit? I had just started to lay my stuff out and it got put on hold (just like everything on the truck) till I had more time. Thinking I am going to run it though the cab. Also, are your running a dedicated negative or going to the frame/body?QPM fitted up and ready for install. Just waiting for grommets arrive for the through body fittings.
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Please show pics of the underside of the East Coast version of "rust free".I bought one! I wasn’t really looking for another truck, but sometimes the deal is too good to pass up. It’s a rust-free ‘93, single locked and 300k miles that needs some loving. It runs, drives, and stops, but needs a few weekends of cleaning and baselining to get back up to snuff. This will accompany my FJ62 at some point. I bought the 80 to be more of a dedicated off roader, but we’ll see where the build takes me.
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and it’s older sibling.
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Seems to me like the tube over the wing is too long. My kit was like this and I trimmed down the tube to be flush with the cutout of the wing for the flare.Definitely cut out for flares. I will Reach out to them Next week and see if I am the issue!
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Could try and burp the coolant system some more.
Please show pics of the underside of the East Coast version of "rust free".
Or does that just mean the rust holes aren't actually big enough to fit a chicken at 20 ft?
I spoke to Ian at 4x4 Labs as my bumper, sliders and jerry can rack are still being worked on. He said he will double check measurements of the bumper and let me know if they are issues. No one wants a bad bumper after it’s shipped and it’s making contact with the fender flares. Was your bumper a DIY weld kit? @Fj80oregon ?Seems to me like the tube over the wing is too long. My kit was like this and I trimmed down the tube to be flush with the cutout of the wing for the flare.