The answer is Meth
What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (38 Viewers)
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bloc
SILVER Star
Silicon has always seemed too fragile for such an application, IMO. Especially when you compare to how tough something like gates greenstripe is.
The silicon intercooler couplers on my TDI weeping oil literally through the material (over time) was all the confirmation I needed. No, that's not what we are asking of them, but still.. I'll stick with severe-duty rubber heater hose personally.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
I am s***ting bricks right now.
I have a lot of silicone ridding on my DD.
No, I'm talking about my wife you dirty, rotten mudders.
aftermarket intercooler with lots of silicon connectors.
Last edited:
bloc
SILVER Star
I am s***ting bricks right now.
I have a lot of silicone ridding on my DD.
No, I'm talking about my wife you dirty, rotten mudders.
aftermarket intercooler with lots of silicon connectors.
I haven't had any couplers swell or tear yet.. said IC couplers have been on the TDI for 40k hard miles, Still holding tight.. but oil is definitely coming through the material. I just make a point of wiping down the clamping surface very well before reassembly so they don't slip off under pressure. Had them on my diesel swapped 4runner and they weeped there too.
When you look at what silicon rubber is rated for.. Oil is NOT high on the list.
Per Rubber Chemical Resistance, Rubber Chemical Compatibility, Page 5 - Mykin Inc
"fair" (2 out of 5, 1 being best) for petroleum oil under 250F
"unsatisfactory" (4 out of 5) over 250F
Compare that to Viton which is what many OEM manufacturers put a layer of in their IC piping
1 under 250f
2 above 250f
Getting a little off topic.
That said.. my overall impression of silicon hose was that it wasn't good enough for the PHH application.. which is why I ran gates greenstripe. Not a whole lot of miles on it so far, but I expect it to hold up for a looooong time.
Edit: since the chart is right htere..
silicon + propylene glycol = 1 .. viton only gets a 3 with that coolant. But it would rarely be used in that application.
Ethylene glycol = 1 (satisfactory)
My issue was always more the physical properties of it. Silicon is usually quite soft (low durometer) compared to the rubber used for heater hose.
Received and installed my snorkel today. Now I just need to go test it out.
I predict a 50 page new thread on PHH silicon vs rubber, coming up very soon. 
I wish you guys would have had this conversation before I changed my PHH to silicone recently.
bloc
SILVER Star
I wish you guys would have had this conversation before I changed my PHH to silicone recently.
Just keep an eye on it. Most likely not gonna explode into a ball of flames all of a sudden. Plus if @NLXTACY is any indicator you have a few tens of thousands of miles before any problems.
I wish you guys would have had this conversation before I changed my PHH to silicone recently.
Take a number. @vladi80 already complained about
Just changed mine a few minutes ago. No leaks so far but I have plenty of cat scratches to prove I did it. Is there any way to tell the date of manufacture from the sticker on the filter? Here's mine.
Dang. Can't really read the numbers after uploading it.
Here they are:
23300-66040
186100-3070
307 on the right. 07 are larger numbers so I'm guessing that might be the year?
orttauq
SILVER Star
I have a shortcut to this reply on my desktop...if I need a good laugh at how deal with a crappy issue after a crappy day at work I click on it. Thanks
I predict a 50 page new thread on PHH silicon vs rubber, coming up very soon.
Thats ok as long as nobody starts another "How much is my 80 worth" thread....lol
Well finally finished one part of the brake job. What was supposed to be an easy pad swap turned into suck city. Couldn't get the pins out, bought some drifts from Home Depot, those folded like a wet noodle. Long story short, ordered a new caliper for $50 and was good to go.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Just now removed the PHH. It took exactly 29mins to remove it. What a pain.
To get maximum room I:
• removed the trans dip stick tube (2x 12mm bolts)
• removed the brake union bracket on the frame (1x 12mm bolt)
• disconnected the knock#2 connector (use a small screwdriver to leverage while you press on release)
• used a flexible shaft with a palm ratchet (can 90º bend to get to the clamps)
• small cuts at either end of the hose (use small screwdriver to get hose to release from tube)
• #6
So 29 mins to get this stupid thing out. Putting the Gates replacement shouldnt be too bad.
This stupid hose just popped. Straight up split right down the middle. No cuts from the Breeze CT clamps.
To get maximum room I:
• removed the trans dip stick tube (2x 12mm bolts)
• removed the brake union bracket on the frame (1x 12mm bolt)
• disconnected the knock#2 connector (use a small screwdriver to leverage while you press on release)
• used a flexible shaft with a palm ratchet (can 90º bend to get to the clamps)
• small cuts at either end of the hose (use small screwdriver to get hose to release from tube)
• #6
So 29 mins to get this stupid thing out. Putting the Gates replacement shouldnt be too bad.
This stupid hose just popped. Straight up split right down the middle. No cuts from the Breeze CT clamps.
Why don't you make a more robust relocation kit yet?
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Ha! Well a far better solution would be a 16" formed hose with a 90 on either end. That would be the bees knees. Remove the pipe altogether. I can see running some straight Gates but finding some OEM formed to use would be a lot better. That way when it needs to be replaced you have the long center of the hose to pull on for leverage. Takes care of the problem forever. No need to go hi-tech.
