What did you do with your 60 this weekend? (3 Viewers)

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haha ive got a ton of ideas but not enough money to back them up. I measured everything out when i installed my LS and there is plenty of room for a turbo on the passenger side with a wastegate that will share the exhaust outlet. Theres also room between the frame rail for a 3 inch (maybe 3.5) exhaust pipe to run out the back. This way you can still run a Cat, resonator, and muffler. With the E-fan theres a ton of room as well to route the exhaust in front of the motor for the hot side of the turbo, and even some room to maybe space the radiator and condenser back some to put the intercooler behind the grill! Its also looking like the holley LS Swap manifolds will work for the turbo hot side, just flip them backwards.
I want to see how you plan to route the exhaust to the turbo with how tight those frame rails are. Snaking both exhaust banks to one side won't leave that much room in my mind. Maybe the bay looks bigger once the straight six is yanked out of there. That's the reason I want to supercharge it instead.
 
I want to see how you plan to route the exhaust to the turbo with how tight those frame rails are. Snaking both exhaust banks to one side won't leave that much room in my mind. Maybe the bay looks bigger once the straight six is yanked out of there. That's the reason I want to supercharge it instead.
Supercharge would be much better for offroading anyways. I just miss the spool noise and BOV. I also really want to learn to tig and this would be a great project as all the tubing will need to be Tigged for hot and cold sides. The Hooker manifolds will prob need to be flipped from side to side and then flipped upside down so they point forward and up. the driver side will come up a few inches and pie cut across the front of the motor giving like 3-4 inches of space for the accessory drive, then the passenger side will come up a little bit but it will merge with the driver side pipe from two 2.5 inch pipes to one 3 inch into the bottom of the turbo with a V Band. Right at the merge the wastegate will be added and then routed either under or over to the side of the turbo to be connected to the downpipe. Really hoping with low boost, one wastegate will be okay. Im also hoping the turbo will sit up kinda high behind my battery so ill have room for all of that. The cold side will go through a hole in the firewall under the battery tray that will need to be cut, into the intercooler and out the other side through another hole and up to the intake. Kinda over simplifying it here but ive looked at it quite a bit and it all checks out as far as spacing goes. Ive got over a foot of space from the back of my electric fan to the front of my accessory drive and theres a TON of dead space under the battery trays on each side. the drivers side by the power steering is the only place it is tight
 
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based on my rudimentary knowledge of turbo theory and LS motors, even a moderate sized turbo will spool not far off idle in a LS due to displacement, especially if it's a ball bearing like a GTX. my understanding is you don't want to undersize the turbo because you'll restrict via the turbine at high rpm and also be out of the efficiency zone of the compressor, so you're generating much more intake heat than additional power
 
based on my rudimentary knowledge of turbo theory and LS motors, even a moderate sized turbo will spool not far off idle in a LS due to displacement, especially if it's a ball bearing like a GTX. my understanding is you don't want to undersize the turbo because you'll restrict via the turbine at high rpm and also be out of the efficiency zone of the compressor, so you're generating much more intake heat than additional power
Youre totally right on that. The LS motors burn up small turbos and spool up very easily, thats why i was looking at running low boost out of something like a 73 to 78mm compressor. I havent gotten that far yet into the research yet on it. Most guys turboing LS motors are looking for max power and racing. Which makes it tough when you are just looking for street power. Ive been trying to see if anyone is running the Compact Garret G42 on a LS with low boost but not finding much. The smaller housing would be super nice. Granted this is still something i know very little about but ive got a local resource who drag races turboed v8s thats kind of giving me some pointers
 
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literally did the same thing just about a week ago!!


right at the end of my thread is what i did to fix it. runs like a top now

at least you’ve still got some brush material!!

if you want to replace it rock auto sells replacement ones. i got one to put on my shelf just i case my rebuild didn’t work.
 
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Well ….

If you have a NON-USA 2F or a 3F Carbureted power plant ?

Your Game is about to Change in a new and exciting way …



 
New 4Plus rear tire carrier/bumper…Dave does some great stuff!!



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literally did the same thing just about a week ago!!


right at the end of my thread is what i did to fix it. runs like a top now

at least you’ve still got some brush material!!

if you want to replace it rock auto sells replacement ones. i got one to put on my shelf just i case my rebuild didn’t work.

Nice intel on the brushes. I found the RockAuto china motors yesterday, better than nothing right!?

Other than replacing or fixing the blower motor and installing new foam on the rest of the HVAC ducting I got these units wrapped up today.

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Cheers
 
Worked on a customer’s HJ61

Ever heard of someone talking about a “cold solder joint” when referring to a circuit board or maybe talking about the AC amplifier or other PCBs in your Land Cruiser? Well a customer’s sub tank controller in the sunroof panel (HJ61) wasn’t working. Luckily I have a nice 20X microscope that we use for inspecting printed circuits and other old school boards. Most modern stuff is solid state and embedded so can’t mess with it.

But think of a cold solder joint as a literal break in the wire. No power, ground, nor communication occurs because it’s a break in the solder. This particular board had nearly a dozen. It was useless.

Fixing it requires using solder tape or a “solder sucker” to remove the solder after heating it up then resolder the joint.

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Think I finally figured out where the high pitched whine is coming from. Throw out bearing is looking like the culprit. Going to try getting a new slave cylinder before dropping the tranny. Hopefully I can limp it around until CityRacer is back up to ship one to me.
 
Think I finally figured out where the high pitched whine is coming from. Throw out bearing is looking like the culprit. Going to try getting a new slave cylinder before dropping the tranny. Hopefully I can limp it around until CityRacer is back up to ship one to me.
I literally just threw a clutch master and slave away last week. damn it
 
It's all good, I appreciate it though! Mechanics stethoscope did it's job, it's a pretty nifty tool. Ordered a new cylinder this morning from CruiserCorps with two day shipping. We'll see what the actual time is with the holidays.

Rockauto carries Aisin and I picked up both master and slave for ca. $50. with shipping
 
Yesterday, I ordered a clutch kit and RMS from Cruiser Outfitters then took off to Grand Junction to buy a tranny jack. Today I read up on it and procrastinated getting started only to see my parts arrived overnight!! That never happens in Moab! I figured I'd have it apart for days before the parts arrived. Kit complete with TO and piolet bearings.

I was hoping to put this off until H55 and 3:1 TC gears.
 
Yesterday, I ordered a clutch kit and RMS from Cruiser Outfitters then took off to Grand Junction to buy a tranny jack. Today I read up on it and procrastinated getting started only to see my parts arrived overnight!! That never happens in Moab! I figured I'd have it apart for days before the parts arrived. Kit complete with TO and piolet bearings.

I was hoping to put this off until H55 and 3:1 TC gears.
You’ll be a pro at it by that time.
Did you get the harbor freight jack?
 
I got my BMW E90 3 series sport seats installed. I had to make brackets cause Torfab didn't have any in stock, oh well saved some money and it wasn't that hard. I have a small subwoofer under the passengers seat and it just clears thankfully.

They fit perfect and I have a feeling this is going to be one of my favorite upgrades! Just waiting for the ebay car side seat plugs to come in so I can get the electrical done. Then the plan is to have the rear seat reupholstered to match, redo the door cards, possibly make some new rear cargo area panels, and new carpet.

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Absolutely love this look. That color match looks really close. What color BWM seats are those? I’m on the hunt for something similar. Thx.
 

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