Builds fj62 gets a lift (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter franklin40
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- #602
hottest day of the year so far where i live. just got my a/c fixed after my pressure hose blew last week. so thankful to be sitting here after riding my bike to go get it! i guess my line touched my pulley some time ago and on another hot day it burst. new line and we’re good. i was scared it was going to be a compressor or something hard to fix!!
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- #603
anyone see a problem here? i’m surprised it still worked until last week
one brush is completely gone! called toyota and they said the blower motor is discontinued. anyone know if there is anywhere to get a genuine one? if not rock auto had some aftermarket ones i’ll have to try out
one brush is completely gone! called toyota and they said the blower motor is discontinued. anyone know if there is anywhere to get a genuine one? if not rock auto had some aftermarket ones i’ll have to try out
this link might be helpful:
I bought a replacement blower motor on rock auto and it was nearly Identical. I have my old blower motor on my bench but haven’t got around to installing the new brushes.
I bought a replacement blower motor on rock auto and it was nearly Identical. I have my old blower motor on my bench but haven’t got around to installing the new brushes.
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- #605
thanks man!! the motor itself has never made any noise to make me think it’s worse than just brushes. that’s the only thing if found wrong so far. maybe i’ll get a rock auto one and then repair this one. then i’ll at least have a back up for years to come!
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- #606
parts ordered to replace the whole
motor but i did order a set of brushes too. can never store too many NLA parts!!
motor but i did order a set of brushes too. can never store too many NLA parts!!
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- #607
got my blower motor working again. put new brushes in the original. ill keep the aftermarket one as a spare.
i got new brushes from Blower Repairs - https://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Blower.shtml and used these instructions.
first i cleaned up the parts.
then as outlined i cut the old brushes off the wires and soldered the wires to the brush housings.
this way the new brushes just slide in and can be replaced as many times as necessary.
i got new brushes from Blower Repairs - https://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Blower.shtml and used these instructions.
first i cleaned up the parts.
then as outlined i cut the old brushes off the wires and soldered the wires to the brush housings.
this way the new brushes just slide in and can be replaced as many times as necessary.
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- #608
the hardest part was reassembly. after inserting the brushes i slid the brush holder over the commutator bar.
after that i put the cap on.
then i put the entire armature back inside the housing and buttoned everything back up.
reinstalled and i have a blower again. it is a little noisy but i assume as the brushes wear in it’ll quiet down again
here’s the rock auto one. you can’t open it up to rebuild it and it doesn’t come with a wire connector. just fyi for those buying it. otherwise it looks fine.
after that i put the cap on.
then i put the entire armature back inside the housing and buttoned everything back up.
reinstalled and i have a blower again. it is a little noisy but i assume as the brushes wear in it’ll quiet down again
here’s the rock auto one. you can’t open it up to rebuild it and it doesn’t come with a wire connector. just fyi for those buying it. otherwise it looks fine.
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- Thread starter
- #609
can anyone explain why this phenomenon is happening. i have dual batteries but only one has significant corrosion. i figure if it was an over charging issue then they’d both have it?
the one with the corrosion is the one that is indeed connected to the alternator but both should see the same charge should they not? there is no isolater between them of any kind. both are exactly the same battery installed at the same time
the one with the corrosion is the one that is indeed connected to the alternator but both should see the same charge should they not? there is no isolater between them of any kind. both are exactly the same battery installed at the same time
have you checked battery voltages while running/charging? IIRC blue stuff is a precipitate of copper. could be a leak? are the batteries two, seven, or ten years old (guess based off date sticker on second battery pic)?
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- #611
they are old. still loads of power in them though. just found it interesting that one would corrode and not the other.
are you leaking from the battery on the one thats bad ? I dont' know off hand why one battery would be prone to issues and not the other...all things equal, but all things may not be equal is your battery is leaking fluid ..
Maybe the boot is trapping moisture?
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- #614
no the boot had absolutely no sealing /trapping capacity. it barely stays on at the best of time.
it could be leaking fluid but i don’t see any moisture on it. i’ll check the water levels
it could be leaking fluid but i don’t see any moisture on it. i’ll check the water levels
- Thread starter
- #615
quick project this evening. i replaced my windshield washer reservoir. it’s one made by @TRFarmers! perfect fit. took me 15 minutes mostly because with double batteries getting one bolt out was kind of slow! beautiful reproduction!
i also topped off the tranny fluid and greased my horn ring. it’s the little things!
i also topped off the tranny fluid and greased my horn ring. it’s the little things!
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- #616
i’ve noticed a leak unfortunately from the bottom of my pump. hopefully it’s a bad hose only. gotta pull it out again and see 
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- #617
we’ll the leak stopped after the top inch dripped out. not sure what that’s about. i don’t see any cracks and it seemed it was leaking from below. oh well i’ll just keep an eye on it now.
last night i started the process of adjusting the valve shims. @Bdbierman did his on his 1hdt and found it ran better so we decided after 500 000 km mine many have never been done we should do them. most gaps were tight. i figure that’s a sign the the valves are a little worn (most were in the range of 8 hundredths if a mm) so we were able to move a few shims around to get half in spec and the rest closer to spec. i have to order a few new shims of the right height and i’ll set those in once i get them. fun job and really not hard with the right tools. just have to make sure the math adds up which is fun with a few beers on board
last night i started the process of adjusting the valve shims. @Bdbierman did his on his 1hdt and found it ran better so we decided after 500 000 km mine many have never been done we should do them. most gaps were tight. i figure that’s a sign the the valves are a little worn (most were in the range of 8 hundredths if a mm) so we were able to move a few shims around to get half in spec and the rest closer to spec. i have to order a few new shims of the right height and i’ll set those in once i get them. fun job and really not hard with the right tools. just have to make sure the math adds up which is fun with a few beers on board
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- #618
finished up the valve adjustments now that i got the proper shims. went very quickly tonight as we did the measurements and math last time. double check tonight was all i needed to do!
- Thread starter
- #619
pump and injectors off to be rebuilt. started having some weird hot start issues leaving me stranded every time i shut it off to fuel up or going into a store. really annoying but should be sorted soon!!
- Thread starter
- #620
i posted this in the diesel section too but i started the pump install. the acsd was deleted so i have to reroute a coolant hose. then i just have to put the timing belt back on and the air i take and i should be ready to prime it and fire it up!!
next i’ve gotta figure out an oil leak too that’s driving me nuts!!
next i’ve gotta figure out an oil leak too that’s driving me nuts!!
