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What did you do with your 60 this weekend? (22 Viewers)
- Thread starter MrMoMo
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Yeh....I beg to differ. .
Specially when driving on gravel or washboard roads....
It is not a common thing, but does happen.... and it sucks...
Bang, and then there was transmission fluid rushing out like a shower head
It usually happens in the middle of nowhere....
Im all for skid plates under that fat belly...... and good company...
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Now that is what I call...
Hey Matt I think most of us here are just grumpy old men, don't worry you'll get here eventually. Just enjoy the journey.
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- Jul 22, 2012
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- www.cruisermatts.com
Yeh....I beg to differ. .
Specially when driving on gravel or washboard roads....
It is not a common thing, but does happen.... and it sucks...
Bang, and then there was transmission fluid rushing out like a shower head
It usually happens in the middle of nowhere....
Im all for skid plates under that fat belly...... and good company...
That’s a big rock!
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
Speaking of which, on a trip to Utah for a canyoneering adventure in the Upper Black Box of the San Rafael River, there was a stretch of gravel frontage road parallel to I-70 that had me tempted. It was about a mile and a half stretch that was wide and flat, and I wanted to see if the '84 FJ60 could keep up with traffic on the Interstate. I got it up to 70 mph before I had to slow down for the 90* bend where the frontage road turned north. There was some small gravel flying that day for sure. Luckily no damage to anything, but the FJ60 had its full complement of underside protection.
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
Shifter bushing time.
Inside the shift housing bushings to take of side to side slop, shifter linkage bushings for fore/aft slop.
Tight as a 30 year old rig can get.
View attachment 1887867
Inside the shift housing bushings to take of side to side slop, shifter linkage bushings for fore/aft slop.
Tight as a 30 year old rig can get.
View attachment 1887867
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NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Years ago me and a friend were out on a dirt road w/ my first truck and suddenly we heard a loud clunk and a scraping noise. We got out and spotted my exhaust shield had come apart from the outer edge of the frame area. We tied it up w/ a dog leash for the ride home. It was scrapped not long after too.You can have mine that I pulled off because it's a completely useless part and extra weight.
I mean you could have it if I didn't scrap it
I bought another one. So I went from zero to two in about two weeks. And total of about 1000 miles driving to get them home. This was a west Texas truck basically NM climate so it’s 99.9% rust free. Frame is super clean not even surface rust. There’s nicks and stratches with surface rust and the drive rear fender will need rust repair. Other then that there is no signs of other rust. The deal was to good not to buy. So I bought it and I’ll sell the pretty clean blue one I had. The interior of the new one is very rough but it will be gutted anyways.
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Well, upon removing my rear brake drum I noticed that it is not, in fact, my wheel cylinder that is leaking. It is my rear axle seal! Awesome!!!!!! Got more super happy fun times coming my way after hurrying up and waiting on MORE parts to come in! This time I am NOT out of whiskey...
In the mean time... I can get this stuff taken care of and maybe replace the busted vinyl line for my rear windshield sprayer.
In the mean time... I can get this stuff taken care of and maybe replace the busted vinyl line for my rear windshield sprayer.
86aggie
SILVER Star
My rear washer line broke at the rubber between the lift gate and the body. I had seen some of the posts about trying to fish the hose above/behind the headliner. I found there was a double male connector just inside the body and enough slack at the reservoir to pull it toward the lift gate, so I only had to fish thru the lift gate. I did have to remove the bolt that held the ground wire for the defroster as the tubing hung up on it.
I’m 99% sure that’s where mine failed too.
RodrigzCrzr
SILVER Star
Make sure you re use that double male connector. That’s a check valve.
All my wires were toast as well. I luckily had enough slack in the body to get a connector between those wires. I pulled out all the old wires in the hatch and rewired everything back there which was satisfying nonetheless. Now I got a working rear wiper, a rear light that comes on when the hatch is open and a heated rear glass panel in the back. Now lets see if it will hold up another 20 years.
Assisted my helpers do The Rodney Flush today. These guys are used to the pressure machine, but I had printed out Rodney's procedures from the FAQ, and brought them the Valvoline Synthetic ATF Dexron. These guys are great and, despite never doing a flush like this, were game.
What an incredibly messy task! During the 2000 rpm flush run, the drain hose into the bucket got away from the tech that was holding it in place after about 45 seconds...and fluid blasted everywhere.
Filling proved to be too slow to keep up with the idle runs, so there were about five or six flush runs at idle, then topping off again.
This tranny was rebuilt about 35K miles ago. There was virtually no friction debris on the screen or in the pan. There was a little fuzz on the magnets. The old fluid was not bright pink anymore, but was not brown either; kind of in between. We would use a pad of white paper towel to dip in the hose flow at the end of each flush to check the color. It took about 16 quarts of new ATF to get to a point where it now had a decidedly pink tint to it rather than a brown tint. It was not new bright pink, but definitely much cleaner.
I used a replacement OEM (cork) AT pan gasket. Didn't think quick enough to find a good vinyl one. The tech seemed to do a good job of using the cork. He spread a thin film of RTV on the pan surface, and they were very careful not to over-torque the pan back on.
Also replaced the transfer case oil with synthetic GL-5 90.
Next weekend we'll put on a B&M 70268 transcooler. I'll get that in on Monday and rig the position installation of the cooler. My guys will help with the "plumbing" of that next weekend.
What an incredibly messy task! During the 2000 rpm flush run, the drain hose into the bucket got away from the tech that was holding it in place after about 45 seconds...and fluid blasted everywhere.
Filling proved to be too slow to keep up with the idle runs, so there were about five or six flush runs at idle, then topping off again.This tranny was rebuilt about 35K miles ago. There was virtually no friction debris on the screen or in the pan. There was a little fuzz on the magnets. The old fluid was not bright pink anymore, but was not brown either; kind of in between. We would use a pad of white paper towel to dip in the hose flow at the end of each flush to check the color. It took about 16 quarts of new ATF to get to a point where it now had a decidedly pink tint to it rather than a brown tint. It was not new bright pink, but definitely much cleaner.
I used a replacement OEM (cork) AT pan gasket. Didn't think quick enough to find a good vinyl one. The tech seemed to do a good job of using the cork. He spread a thin film of RTV on the pan surface, and they were very careful not to over-torque the pan back on.
Also replaced the transfer case oil with synthetic GL-5 90.
Next weekend we'll put on a B&M 70268 transcooler. I'll get that in on Monday and rig the position installation of the cooler. My guys will help with the "plumbing" of that next weekend.
FWIW, the 70268 wasn’t big enough for my old 62. I went with a Derale atomic cooler with an electric fan.Assisted my helpers do The Rodney Flush today. These guys are used to the pressure machine, but I had printed out Rodney's procedures from the FAQ, and brought them the Valvoline Synthetic ATF Dexron. These guys are great and, despite never doing a flush like this, were game.
What an incredibly messy task! During the 2000 rpm flush run, the drain hose into the bucket got away from the tech that was holding it in place after about 45 seconds...and fluid blasted everywhere.
This tranny was rebuilt about 35K miles ago. There was virtually no friction debris on the screen or in the pan. There was a little fuzz on the magnets. The old fluid was not bright pink anymore, but was not brown either; kind of in between. We would use a pad of white paper towel to dip in the hose flow at the end of each flush to check the color. It took about 16 quarts of new ATF to get to a point where it now had a decidedly pink tint to it rather than a brown tint. It was not new bright pink, but definitely much cleaner.
I used a replacement OEM (cork) AT pan gasket. Didn't think quick enough to find a good vinyl one. The tech seemed to do a good job of using the cork. He spread a thin film of RTV on the pan surface, and they were very careful not to over-torque the pan back on.
Also replaced the transfer case oil with synthetic GL-5 90.
Next weekend we'll put on a B&M 70268 transcooler. I'll get that in on Monday and rig the position installation of the cooler. My guys will help with the "plumbing" of that next weekend.
Walked around a flea market, went and saw the San Xavier Mission church, and did some metal detecting off a random road about 30min north of the Mexico border. Beautiful day here in southern AZ.
Thanks for the info. I saw your post on this elsewhere. I'm not having AT heat problems, I'm just being proactive about adding some cooling...and hopefully life. I already have taken up much room in front of the condenser with the 12" condenser fan. I don't think I could squeeze in the Derale or Mishimoto on the driver side due to the depth added by the fan.
Did you install yours in series with the OEM cooler in the radiator?
We'll have to hook up for a cold one next time you're down.
I did, ya. I wasn’t having issues either really, until I installed a temp gauge and saw how warm it ran. The Derale cooled 30 degrees more than the B&M did.
I’m game!
