What Did You Do With Your 120 Today? (13 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Replacing surround foam. Simply speakers kit. I had to take the old foam out, clean the frame and the cone really good by gently scraping and then isopropyl to get remaining residue. Carefully trim the new foam to fit and then glue (provided) it in.

View attachment 3551704
Nicely done - I tried the same thing (same kit) a couple of years ago. I made such a mess of it that I wound up buying replacement speakers...it was a disaster! :)
 
Nicely done - I tried the same thing (same kit) a couple of years ago. I made such a mess of it that I wound up buying replacement speakers...it was a disaster! :)
Carefully scraped the cone clean, then the frame. Carefully cleaned remaining residue with alcohol wipes. Fitted the new foam by trimming. Then glued the foam to the cone, let dry, then foam to frame. It could've been cleaner if I glued the foam to the frame 1rst.
 
Bought one.

Picked up a 2006 with sport package. 230k miles. Spent the first 200k in California. Clean and well maintained.

Needs:
1. Blend door actuators I think. No heat on passengers side. AC codes 21, 24, 31, 41. Makes some noise too so maybe a blower motor but won't known until I fix the blend doors.
2. Tensioner pully squeaks just a hair.
3. Something done about the awful nav system.

20240216_142821.jpg
 
Bought one.

Picked up a 2006 with sport package. 230k miles. Spent the first 200k in California. Clean and well maintained.

Needs:
1. Blend door actuators I think. No heat on passengers side. AC codes 21, 24, 31, 41. Makes some noise too so maybe a blower motor but won't known until I fix the blend doors.
2. Tensioner pully squeaks just a hair.
3. Something done about the awful nav system.

View attachment 3559743
I guess sport package is the painted door handles/ roof rack and lack of chrome trim everywhere else?
 
Best place to get the servos/actuators is Partsouq (I got all 4 for around $500 USD shipped). If it needs more than the right-most one, which I think actually is the blend door, it's easily a dash-off job (in which case you might want to replace the dash if it's cracked :)). The right-most servo isn't too bad to get to if you remove the glove box and ECU. I just replaced all 4 in mine proactively when I did the dash replacement. A harbor freight ratcheting 90 degree screwdriver was well worth the $40 for replacing the servos.
 
Best place to get the servos/actuators is Partsouq (I got all 4 for around $500 USD shipped). If it needs more than the right-most one, which I think actually is the blend door, it's easily a dash-off job (in which case you might want to replace the dash if it's cracked :)). The right-most servo isn't too bad to get to if you remove the glove box and ECU. I just replaced all 4 in mine proactively when I did the dash replacement. A harbor freight ratcheting 90 degree screwdriver was well worth the $40 for replacing the servos.
Thanks. I was just thinking about replacing the dash and honestly a new dash isn't terribly expensive. Lexus did the "repair" and I think I would rather have cracks. And figure out what route I want to go with for the radio too. I'm also not a fan of the wood on the steering wheel. Feels real thin. Thankfully toyota used the same wheel for 20 years. I swapped a leather wrapped Camry wheel when I had my Sequoia.
 
I put a ~$60 Loncky leather cover on my wheel. It feels much better than the wood version, but is really meant for the similar-aged non-wood wheels, so there is a tad bit of looseness at the top and bottom (over the wood pieces on the wheel). The rest of it is great. Hindsight being 20/20, I would have picked up a Tacoma/Tundra non-wood wheel of the same generation, wrapped that, and then eBay'd my wood wheel (which wasn't in terrible shape).

If you pull the dash to do servos, the wheel needs to come off anyway.
20231225_132108 (1).jpg
 
I put a ~$60 Loncky leather cover on my wheel. It feels much better than the wood version, but is really meant for the similar-aged non-wood wheels, so there is a tad bit of looseness at the top and bottom (over the wood pieces on the wheel). The rest of it is great. Hindsight being 20/20, I would have picked up a Tacoma/Tundra non-wood wheel of the same generation, wrapped that, and then eBay'd my wood wheel (which wasn't in terrible shape).

If you pull the dash to do servos, the wheel needs to come off anyway.
View attachment 3559809
I may spend a few months collecting parts and do it all at once. It was great in my Sequoia. Went no buttons to buttons to aftermarket HU and I never hooked the buttons back up.
 
With Nav your only options are really a non-nav conversion (allowing any head unit) or a Phoenix PX6. I have the latter. It has some flaws, but has been reliable for 3+ years and adds a great deal of functionality for off road navigation, watching engine sensors, etc. Plus Android Auto/Carplay.
 
A look at my driveway this weekend...

Walked an Army friend through his first timing belt/water pump and mild lift (back right, silver pine mettalic) after just taking delivery of Mrs. Stonefoot's new-to-her 2008 blizzard pearl while mine sat idle and ignored, jealous of all the attention to the newcomers.

The optimist in me adds up the individual fuel economy of this trio and would like to imagine it as 45mpg (15+15+15)!

On the bright side, I would hope they represent a collective 1,500,000 miles + of adventure and comfort.

I'm pretty jealous of my buddy's non-nav specimen...he keeps showing my head units he wants..."will this one work?" Yes. "What about this one, and this one?" Yes. Yes. Yes. Every time thinking about my wonky alibaba tesla screen and cussing under my breath.

20240219_064227.jpg
 
Got after a few projects this weekend since the weather was nice.
Installed some sliders (White Knuckle) , upgraded my rear springs (All Dogs Offroad) for all the extra weight I'm carrying in tools, complete with the Dobinsons lean spacer I've had in my toolbox for over a year. Then tackled an interior project with a JW double decker panel and RAM mounts for the electronics so I could ditch the cheap Amazon suction cups I'd been using.
1000070286.jpg


1000070287.jpg


1000070291.jpg
 
Last edited:
Took advantage of the awesome, spring-like weather and enjoyed a work day trip down some Ozark backroads in the GX. Normally I'd take the Highlander and pocket more mileage money, but sometimes it's just worth it to drive the rig that you really love.
20240220_152322.jpg
 
Are those Vors VE37 wheels ? If so, wondering where you got those center caps?
Yes they are! 3 years in and they've been actually pretty good wheels despite being cheap.

The caps are a DIY job based on the ugly Vors OEM caps. I cut the Vors caps flat with a Dremel, made some circular inserts out of flat plastic, epoxy'd them in, sanded them smooth, and painted them satin black. The LRD stickers were made on my wife's Cricut and are under a coat of satin clear.

I think other folks are now selling 3D printed caps on Etsy that might work for this.
 
Power steering flush, new reservoir, added an in-line Magnefine filter, and threw in about 1.5oz of AT-205 to the system.

Burped the system of air, and all seems good. Have a small leak under the passenger side power steering boot. Hoping the AT-205 can stop it. If not, will look into changing the rack.

Thrilled with the new reservoir. Old one was so stained, you couldn’t read the fluid level.


IMG_0907.png
 
Took the GX by ACC Garage for a comprehensive inspection and second opinion on the assessments from another shop.

Great news!

steering components all look good. Said the slight leak under the passenger side boot doesn’t seem concerning. Will continue to monitor.

Two small issues:
  1. PCV hose was bad. Replaced it. PCV valve tests ok, but recommend replacing it and the other hose.
  2. Suggest removing the front KDSS spacers. KDSS sway bar is hitting the driver side steering knuckle, and the KDSS piston is pushing against the frame on the side.
Number 2 has been ongoing since the lift. The sway bar always slips to the driver side. Measured the diameter of the sway bar with calipers, and I’m gonna order some clamp collars from McMaster-Carr to see if that helps hold it in place. If only Dr KDSS made the clamps for the 470.

Thankful the beast is in much better shape than I’d thought.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom