What Did You Do With Your 120 Today? (12 Viewers)
- Thread starter kbahus
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Took the kiddos out to Badlands in Attica, IN. Gotta start em young!
Replacing surround foam. Simply speakers kit. I had to take the old foam out, clean the frame and the cone really good by gently scraping and then isopropyl to get remaining residue. Carefully trim the new foam to fit and then glue (provided) it in.
Found out the OEM steering rack + inner + outer tie rod ends and cv axles replaced less than 25K miles ago are all shot.
Went to a highly reviewed shop that offered a 3 year, 36K warranty.
They replaced all that at 108K. I’m at 130K, and it’s all leaking and shot. Warranty is expired because it was > 3 years ago.
This is all without any off roading and a very mild icon lift.
How on earth does a brand new steering rack last less than 25k?
Went to a highly reviewed shop that offered a 3 year, 36K warranty.
They replaced all that at 108K. I’m at 130K, and it’s all leaking and shot. Warranty is expired because it was > 3 years ago.
This is all without any off roading and a very mild icon lift.
How on earth does a brand new steering rack last less than 25k?
That's bad..Guessing.. they didn't use oem? These shops, they have accounts with suppliers and get the cheapest parts possible, these increases their profit. They align their warranty with the suppliers warranty. I have found its best to buy your own parts, oem or better, and have them install it if you don't want to or can't. You sacrifice the warranty on labor doing this but end up with something that lasts as long as they didn't butcher the install. Just my my opinion based on experiences.
Last edited:
No, they’re all oem parts. Everything is leaking per the pictures that were shared with me from the inspection report.
Really thinking I’m gonna trade this in and get a truck. I’m hitting the point where I’ll have spent more than $25K on this vehicle, including the $13K to buy it.
Just not worth it to keep pouring in parts, especially when I’m busy remodeling a 100 year old house and don’t have time to do the labor myself.
Disappointed that this truck has been a total lemon for me. I know that’s not the case for this vehicle in general, but it’s chewed through parts for me.
You're right, hard to imagine oem lasting only 25k.. Makes no sense. I'm sorry to hear of such issues. I wonder if maybe they put the incorrect fluid and it destroyed the seals?
I have no idea what went wrong, but the pictures show the boot / bellow on the passenger side is soaked.
OEM rack + cvj cv axles + misc parts is ~$2500. Labor for all that is gonna be close to $2000. Just dropped $5K in August to have the master cylinder replaced. This thing is the biggest money pit I’ve ever had. My s***box 2001 blazer leaked less and had fewer issues.
I can't understand how the cv's could've gone bad either.. I'm thinking there's a game going on here, you may want to consider verifying. No way in hell cv's or inner outer rod ends go bad in 25k unless there is shenanigans. Especially oem. The rack, same thing, shenanigans too.. Red, you wanna weigh in here?
Sounds to me like you've had enough, don't know what to say about that. Sink a boat load of cash and your in a worse place then before you started. Lots of times on these things you have to do your own work if you want it done right also shops will rape you if given the chance.
This is where I struggle with car stuff. I know enough to do basic work myself. I send it to reputable shops for the big stuff.
I don’t want to name and shame. The shop that did the steering rack and cv axles has a stellar rep in Atlanta for Lexus and Toyota. Killer reviews everywhere. They offer a 3-year/36k mile warranty on everything they do, etc.
I used ACC for my lift and installing the Becky tire carrier for the same reason: unbeatable reputation. Have had 0 issues with the work ACC has done.
The shop telling me the axles and steering rack need replacing is a new one for me, but they’re used by ACC for alignments. They’ve got great reviews.
I’m gonna bring it by ACC for a second opinion, but I’m just at my wits end.
Toyota and Lexus have a reputation for reliability for a reason. I’d be a fool to argue that. It’s frustrating feeling like my truck has been a bit of a lemon. If I’d bought an F150 or old Chevy, I’d expect these constant leaks and repairs.
Bummed because I love this GX. Learned so much while owning it, and have spent so many hours tinkering with it. Labor of love for sure. Just hesitant to drop another huge chunk of change when I haven’t even had a chance to beat the truck up off-road =\
A few things that come off the top of my head:
1. It's possible that the steering rack is leaking due to contamination of the fluid. I put a Cardone rack on mine a couple of years ago and noticed a concerning amount of metal shavings in the fluid (which at that time was <1 year old). So I put a Magnefine filter in near the reservoir and also replaced the reservoir. I haven't had any leaks, but can see how a few floating metal shavings could trash the seals in the steering rack. I'm not sure it's possible to get every shaving out of the lines/pump/reservoir by flushing, hence the use of the filter on mine.
2. CV boots on a lifted rig are a pretty common failure item, honestly if you get 3 years out of them you're doing well. They probably have rips in the inner boots, I'd around an hour of work per side to re-boot them. For the inner if the clamp is set too close to the diff the ribs will rub together and cause a failure; I actually just noticed this was happening to mine and moved the clamps further out. If they were driven for a long period of time with a torn boot it could have ruined the inner joint - being that you do DIY stuff on your rig I'm thinking you would have noticed it if it had been ripped for awhile.
3. Saying the tie rods are shot seems very, very strange to me - I have cheapie Moog rods in my rig and they are just fine at 3 years.
To be honest, there really aren't a lot of parts costs here to repair this. The reman Cardone rack I used was around $250, a high-angle CV boot kit is around $130, and tie rods (if they are shot) are around $150 or so for a set of Japanese-made 555s. Add in another $300 for PS fluid, a Magnefine filter, reservoir, and an alignment, and you're ~$900 in parts. It's not terrible to do the steering rack yourself (mine took ~8 hrs but I did a ton of other stuff), but if it's not your cup of tea, that's totally understandable.
Having an older GX can make sense if you can DIY a lot of the stuff - I'm north of $30K total investment in mine now with all of the DIY labor (and probably hundreds of hours honestly). I'd be north of $40K if I had paid for labor. At that point it's darn close to new 4Runner money. The market for GXs is still pretty hot, if yours is in good condition I don't see why you couldn't recover most of your investment by selling it (I would not trade it - sell it private-party as a dealer will likely low-ball you on a modified rig). Somewhere like Bring a Trailer or Cars and Bids might be ideal, or even something like Cargurus, or list on the classifieds in this forum.
1. It's possible that the steering rack is leaking due to contamination of the fluid. I put a Cardone rack on mine a couple of years ago and noticed a concerning amount of metal shavings in the fluid (which at that time was <1 year old). So I put a Magnefine filter in near the reservoir and also replaced the reservoir. I haven't had any leaks, but can see how a few floating metal shavings could trash the seals in the steering rack. I'm not sure it's possible to get every shaving out of the lines/pump/reservoir by flushing, hence the use of the filter on mine.
2. CV boots on a lifted rig are a pretty common failure item, honestly if you get 3 years out of them you're doing well. They probably have rips in the inner boots, I'd around an hour of work per side to re-boot them. For the inner if the clamp is set too close to the diff the ribs will rub together and cause a failure; I actually just noticed this was happening to mine and moved the clamps further out. If they were driven for a long period of time with a torn boot it could have ruined the inner joint - being that you do DIY stuff on your rig I'm thinking you would have noticed it if it had been ripped for awhile.
3. Saying the tie rods are shot seems very, very strange to me - I have cheapie Moog rods in my rig and they are just fine at 3 years.
To be honest, there really aren't a lot of parts costs here to repair this. The reman Cardone rack I used was around $250, a high-angle CV boot kit is around $130, and tie rods (if they are shot) are around $150 or so for a set of Japanese-made 555s. Add in another $300 for PS fluid, a Magnefine filter, reservoir, and an alignment, and you're ~$900 in parts. It's not terrible to do the steering rack yourself (mine took ~8 hrs but I did a ton of other stuff), but if it's not your cup of tea, that's totally understandable.
Having an older GX can make sense if you can DIY a lot of the stuff - I'm north of $30K total investment in mine now with all of the DIY labor (and probably hundreds of hours honestly). I'd be north of $40K if I had paid for labor. At that point it's darn close to new 4Runner money. The market for GXs is still pretty hot, if yours is in good condition I don't see why you couldn't recover most of your investment by selling it (I would not trade it - sell it private-party as a dealer will likely low-ball you on a modified rig). Somewhere like Bring a Trailer or Cars and Bids might be ideal, or even something like Cargurus, or list on the classifieds in this forum.
I’ve been turning wrenches on Toyota’s for 20plus years and hardly ever seen problems with oe racks , new or reman. We did have some problems with the Tundras (08-10).
Seems really strange for the rack and tie rods to go out the quick, especially if you’re not beating on it. The P/S fluid is definitely a concern. You might want to get a second opinion. Also I would contact the dealer you got the parts from and ask them parts warranty.
Seems really strange for the rack and tie rods to go out the quick, especially if you’re not beating on it. The P/S fluid is definitely a concern. You might want to get a second opinion. Also I would contact the dealer you got the parts from and ask them parts warranty.
@Rednexus
Appreciate all the feedback. I’m hesitant to replace the rack with anything but a OEM because I have no interest in having to replace this rack again. I’m sure I could get it done, but I don’t have a garage. This would be on jack stands in a side street, and that sounds like a bad plan for a job this labor intensive that I’ve never done.
@aztoytec - second opinion is gonna happen over at ACC. No one knows the GX locally like Dugan. So far his work is the only thing I haven’t had to get re-done on this truck…
If it does need all this steering work, I’m gonna post it for $15K firm, and go get a V8 tundra with less than 50K miles. Leave it stock, and drive it until it dies. With all the work I’m doing on the house and yard, the truck makes more sense than the GX.
Edit: pictures
Passenger side outer CV boot has multiple cracks / tears like this
passenger side steering rack boot is real wet
Appreciate all the feedback. I’m hesitant to replace the rack with anything but a OEM because I have no interest in having to replace this rack again. I’m sure I could get it done, but I don’t have a garage. This would be on jack stands in a side street, and that sounds like a bad plan for a job this labor intensive that I’ve never done.
@aztoytec - second opinion is gonna happen over at ACC. No one knows the GX locally like Dugan. So far his work is the only thing I haven’t had to get re-done on this truck…
If it does need all this steering work, I’m gonna post it for $15K firm, and go get a V8 tundra with less than 50K miles. Leave it stock, and drive it until it dies. With all the work I’m doing on the house and yard, the truck makes more sense than the GX.
Edit: pictures
Passenger side outer CV boot has multiple cracks / tears like this
passenger side steering rack boot is real wet
Last edited:
Honestly I'm wondering if the wetness on your steering rack boot is due to the CV slinging grease on it. You can easily fix the CV boots as a DIY - it's not hard (especially if you have an electric impact) and you can do it on the curb if your road is not too busy. Around an hour or less per side. It won't be the last time you have a ripped CV boot, and if you get a Tundra or any other IFS vehicle, will eventually rip CV boots as well 
.
I'd see if you have any fluid inside the rack boots. The amount on your photo is really pretty small and indicative of seepage (if it's not actually CV grease slung everywhere). If it's dry inside, it is not leaking and your rack is fine. If it's wet but not a lot, I would not worry about it and would flush the PS fluid, some AT-205 seal conditioner into the new fluid, and add a Magnefine filter to take care of any lingering particles. That is not something I'd worry about fixing in the near term at all as long as your check the PS fluid at each oil change; frankly it's something you might be able to drive like that for years.
.I'd see if you have any fluid inside the rack boots. The amount on your photo is really pretty small and indicative of seepage (if it's not actually CV grease slung everywhere). If it's dry inside, it is not leaking and your rack is fine. If it's wet but not a lot, I would not worry about it and would flush the PS fluid, some AT-205 seal conditioner into the new fluid, and add a Magnefine filter to take care of any lingering particles. That is not something I'd worry about fixing in the near term at all as long as your check the PS fluid at each oil change; frankly it's something you might be able to drive like that for years.
Honestly I'm wondering if the wetness on your steering rack boot is due to the CV slinging grease on it. You can easily fix the CV boots as a DIY - it's not hard (especially if you have an electric impact) and you can do it on the curb if your road is not too busy. Around an hour or less per side. It won't be the last time you have a ripped CV boot, and if you get a Tundra or any other IFS vehicle, will eventually rip CV boots as well
I'd see if you have any fluid inside the rack boots. The amount on your photo is really pretty small and indicative of seepage (if it's not actually CV grease slung everywhere). If it's dry inside, it is not leaking and your rack is fine. If it's wet but not a lot, I would not worry about it and would flush the PS fluid, some AT-205 seal conditioner into the new fluid, and add a Magnefine filter to take care of any lingering particles. That is not something I'd worry about fixing in the near term at all as long as your check the PS fluid at each oil change; frankly it's something you might be able to drive like that for years.
Is checking the rack boots as simple as undoing the clamp on the outside edge of the boot, then sliding the boot out of the way?
That’s a good point about the rack boot possibly being wet from the cv axle, especially since the driver side is bone dry. Driver side cv axle looks great.
Just had the same issue! Only problem was my boots were torn in 2 different places, leaving the boot rubber just dangling there with basically no grease. Buddy and I got both of them replaced less than 24 hours before a 1000 mile trip, along with outer tie rod, and sway bar end links replaced with beefier ones. Took about 6 hours to do it all, but it really wasnt terrible. Get those boots replaced if you can! Otherwise get a whole new CV. Sometimes its easier than getting the CV off and a new boot on. Good luck!
Yes. Use a hose clamp to replace the OEM clamp when you are done.
EDIT: Here are the products I mentioned. And where I mounted the Magnefine filter. You could also mount it on the vertical PS line that goes down along the PS side of the radiator; I only mounted it up high to make it easier to change later.
Last edited:
@Rednexus thanks a ton the for links, pictures, and details.
Before messing with the steering rack, and because everything looks great on the driver side, I think I will try re-booting the passenger cv axle with the torn outer boot.
since my inner boots have never leaked or torn…is there any reason to go with the all pro or another high angle boot kit? I think I’d just want to the Toyota oem kit, yeah?
Before messing with the steering rack, and because everything looks great on the driver side, I think I will try re-booting the passenger cv axle with the torn outer boot.
since my inner boots have never leaked or torn…is there any reason to go with the all pro or another high angle boot kit? I think I’d just want to the Toyota oem kit, yeah?
Duralast gold cv axle installed and Steering knuckle seal replaced. Oil change knocked out.
Found out the ones installed by a local shop a few years back were not OEM, despite the shop saying they were. That solves the mystery of why it tore so fast.
clunk is gone when turning at full lock. These $5 pieces of PVC from Lowe’s fit perfectly for seating the seal. Way easier than ordering the special service tool.
Option 1
Option 2
Old, aftermarket axle
I noticed my driver side tire rubs the KDSS sway bar at full lock when turning right. Has been doing this for a while because it wore the paint off the sway bar. Figure this can be fixed with an alignment?
Power steering flush, new reservoir, and AT 200 today. Pump has been making a lot more noise than I’d like it to when turning.
Found out the ones installed by a local shop a few years back were not OEM, despite the shop saying they were. That solves the mystery of why it tore so fast.
clunk is gone when turning at full lock. These $5 pieces of PVC from Lowe’s fit perfectly for seating the seal. Way easier than ordering the special service tool.
Option 1
Option 2
Old, aftermarket axle
I noticed my driver side tire rubs the KDSS sway bar at full lock when turning right. Has been doing this for a while because it wore the paint off the sway bar. Figure this can be fixed with an alignment?
Power steering flush, new reservoir, and AT 200 today. Pump has been making a lot more noise than I’d like it to when turning.
