What Did You Do With Your 120 Today? (10 Viewers)

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I already had a body mount chop, folded pinch welds, JBA UCA's and 4.10 gears so they went right on without any work.
Let us know if the 4.10 gears are enough for the 35's. I hope to address my axles next year to eventually allow for 34's or even 35's.
 
4.56 is the sweet spot for 35s
 
Let there be reverse lights.
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I said I would never do this but with the 10.5 width I couldn't resist getting 35's.

I put on 35x10.5x17 Kenda Klevers today and so far I really like them. Tomorrow they'll see snow. I'm interested to see how they do compared to my KO2's.

I already had a body mount chop, folded pinch welds, JBA UCA's and 4.10 gears so they went right on without any work.
So what wheel width, backspace, and offset are you running?
 
So what wheel width, backspace, and offset are you running?

I run the same tire on 8.5 wide 17s with +6.9 offset that I had to add a spacer to the front due to my spindle gussets and extended travel.
 
Today I learned the 6x9 mounting bracket in the front door is part of the OEM speaker. :/

...But I did get my Android Auto - Pioneer 4500nex installed and it sounds much better than the Jensen trash the PO had in it.
 
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Let us know if the 4.10 gears are enough for the 35's. I hope to address my axles next year to eventually allow for 34's or even 35's.
4.56 is the sweet spot for 35s

So how necessary is it to do axles and re-gear when going with 35" tires? It seems like from all of the threads that I've read its suggested to regear but I haven't seen a lot of info from people who haven't regeared. I understand not doing axles could lead to breakage and thats why its a good idea
 
So how necessary is it to do axles and re-gear when going with 35" tires? It seems like from all of the threads that I've read its suggested to regear but I haven't seen a lot of info from people who haven't regeared. I understand not doing axles could lead to breakage and thats why its a good idea
I am not regeared yet and I run 35's. You loose some torque with bigger tires and therefore you loose some pickup off the line and MPGs. I bought the vehicle with 35s on it so I don't know the difference. When I regear it will be a great new feeling for me.

I am holding off until the right deal comes along. Most likely I will move to a full 8.2 axle assembly and get it e-locked. Unless I decide a different route or I score an 8 inch e locker and some 4.56 gears for a sweet deal. Then I might just drop that in there and call it a day. My style of driving is less and less aggressive as I get older.
 
Good to know that some people are running 35s without regearing. What MPG are you getting with the larger tires?
 
Good to know that some people are running 35s without regearing. What MPG are you getting with the larger tires?
Honestly I have never done a recalculation of a tank of gas to know what I am getting. So anything I tell you would be a complete guess.
 
4.10's are a tad sluggish with 35's.
It think 4.30's would be fine if you had a great deal on some factory diffs. 4.56 definitely is the route I'll be going once I find the time to rebuild my diffs.
 
Today I changed the gear oil in my transfer case, front diff, and rear diff.

Aside from a really stubborn rear diff fill plug (hooray for pb blaster and breaker bars), the job was painless.

This made filling the rear diff and transfer case a breeze. followed this guide for the front diff, and used the same website for a guide to the rear diff.

bought new gaskets from the lexus dealer by me. All six gaskets ran me ~$18. Snagged 7 quarts of Mobil 1 75W-90, and used it for both diffs and the transfer case.

was a little concerned by the volume of fluid that came out from both diffs. definitely less than what the owners manual says to add. That being said, the drain plugs weren’t concerning- a little gunky but no chunks of metal. The fluid was very dark and smelled terrible.

without a lift or enough jack stands to raise the car and keep it level, it was a very tight fit under the truck. The front diff drain plug was a huge pain to torque to specs. Just couldn’t get in a good position to get leverage on the torque wrench.

it might just be in my head, but the car feels like it’s driving better / smoother after the fluid change.
 
So how necessary is it to do axles and re-gear when going with 35" tires? It seems like from all of the threads that I've read its suggested to regear but I haven't seen a lot of info from people who haven't regeared. I understand not doing axles could lead to breakage and thats why its a good idea
Off road the lower gear help with control. Before regear it feels the approach and downhill speed is too fast.

On road it makes it feel like stock with much heavier tire. Running stock with 33" tire I already could not stand the transmission downshift on any slight incline.

I run 33" tire with cheap 4:30 solutions with e-locker. It's not ideal for hard off road use, but I would do it again and again for the price I paid for it.
 
Made some fire extinguisher mounts out of aluminum for both front seats and deep cleaned the carpet and seats. Previous owner has 5 kids so it was a well used truck.

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Contrast pictures to show before/after. Drivers side is not cleaned, Passengers side is cleaned with Chemical Guys carpet cleaner and drill brush.
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