Pulled off the valve cover, checked the cork gasket for breaks (none). Brakleened the gasket & head, gave each surface a few fingerfulls of wheel bearing grease and put it back on. Chasing down a new oil leak I've had since I put the new coil on the side of the head.
What did you do to your pig today? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ABQIRONPIG
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Got the rear transfer case out. The idler shaft had broken the locking tab and walked about an inch forward. The shims were gone on the idler gear. The idler gear was walking back and forth about a half inch. Every tooth on every gear is missing chunks, although none are missing completely. Every bearing is shot. Lots of years of abuse.
I dont thing it was carb issues causing it to bog in extreme situations in the black hills. I think the case was binding.
Still did Kong, iceman and Hals John.
I dont thing it was carb issues causing it to bog in extreme situations in the black hills. I think the case was binding.
Still did Kong, iceman and Hals John.
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Moved the ignitor from the side of the block to the passenger side fenderwell, used the stock holes to mount it. Replaced that copper coolant water line that runs along the passenger side of the block and gets in the way of the big-cap with a 4 foot length of 5/8 heater hose. Removed the old valve cover gasket, glued down a fresh cork gasket and put the valve cover back on. Will find out soon enough if I fixed that leak yet...
Got the 2 piece drive shaft redone! I rigged one up 6 or 7 years ago when I put the auto and clocked flat t-case in and it never worked like it should. This one will actually let me up to at least 50 mph. The other one vibrated so badly that I couldn't go over 15 - 20.
Pulled out my old body lift...
(Back in 2000, for the first Pig Run on the Rubicon, I added a rubber boat roller type body lift. I was SUA on 33s at the time, figured I needed it for the 'Con. It messed up my carb linkage and moved the fan just a little closer to the radiator, so that the two occasionally touched when I flexed the wrong way). I have been meaning to remove it for a few years now, finally got a round tuit.
(Back in 2000, for the first Pig Run on the Rubicon, I added a rubber boat roller type body lift. I was SUA on 33s at the time, figured I needed it for the 'Con. It messed up my carb linkage and moved the fan just a little closer to the radiator, so that the two occasionally touched when I flexed the wrong way). I have been meaning to remove it for a few years now, finally got a round tuit.
....Then, I thought I'd trim up the rear wheelwells and fender flares and sliders with the plasma cutter. Ended up melting the rear wire harness where it goes over the rear wheelwell. My rear window went down all by itself before I got the batteries un-hooked. Think I know what I'll be doing tomorrow.
Pighead,
How about a side picture, without the lift.
How about a side picture, without the lift.
with pigheads help, got the trans and transfer stabbed in the pickle....haven't seen this view for a few years.
After running a rigged up and quite shoddy made (by me) drive shaft for 5 years or so I decided to have a Devin help me fix it properly. With the old carrier bearing setup I couldn't drive over 15 or so mph without some hellacious vibes. It worked great crawling around but at higher speeds it left a lot to be desired.
The reason we have to have a 2 piece shaft is because of running an 700R4 with a NP241 transfer case that is clocked flat. The shaft basically has to run around the transmission pan.
We decided to use a metal flange bearing with an id of 1 3/8". This should be beefy enough to handle the torque without being beaten up like the old carrier bearing setup. The biggest issue with using the flange bearing was being able to unbolt the shaft in case it had to be removed. To facilitate this we needed a flange that had a bearing surface on it that would also fit out t case side drive shaft.
Looking around the shop we found this:
A pinion shaft from a mini truck differential. It would allow us to bolt a cv shaft from a mini truck to the t case side drive shaft and easily bolt to the cv shaft.
First we cut off the head of the pinion and then chucked it up in the lathe to true the end up.
Next we re-drilled the pinion flange so that it would mate up to the cv shaft. Having the turret jaws for the milling machine came in real handy.
Then we made some bushings to make the flange shaft bearing surface match up with the id of the flange bearing and the busing to mount up into the t case side shaft.
Next the bushings were both welded onto the pinion shaft, indexed and turned down to the proper sizes.
The flange was then test fitted to the pinion shaft.
The t case side shaft was cut to length and the altered pinion shaft was welded to it.
It was all assembled and bolted up.
Then we made the 1/2" plate to mount the flange to the frame beside the transmission.
We then welded the plate into place and bolted it all up solid.
With this setup we were able to drive up to 50 mph without any major vibes. The cv joint should really help soak up the vibes and help offset the angles. Time will tell how long and how well it stands up to the small block 400 but it will definitely be better than the old setup and I still have my flat belly on the Pig.
The reason we have to have a 2 piece shaft is because of running an 700R4 with a NP241 transfer case that is clocked flat. The shaft basically has to run around the transmission pan.
We decided to use a metal flange bearing with an id of 1 3/8". This should be beefy enough to handle the torque without being beaten up like the old carrier bearing setup. The biggest issue with using the flange bearing was being able to unbolt the shaft in case it had to be removed. To facilitate this we needed a flange that had a bearing surface on it that would also fit out t case side drive shaft.
Looking around the shop we found this:
A pinion shaft from a mini truck differential. It would allow us to bolt a cv shaft from a mini truck to the t case side drive shaft and easily bolt to the cv shaft.
First we cut off the head of the pinion and then chucked it up in the lathe to true the end up.
Next we re-drilled the pinion flange so that it would mate up to the cv shaft. Having the turret jaws for the milling machine came in real handy.
Then we made some bushings to make the flange shaft bearing surface match up with the id of the flange bearing and the busing to mount up into the t case side shaft.
Next the bushings were both welded onto the pinion shaft, indexed and turned down to the proper sizes.
The flange was then test fitted to the pinion shaft.
The t case side shaft was cut to length and the altered pinion shaft was welded to it.
It was all assembled and bolted up.
Then we made the 1/2" plate to mount the flange to the frame beside the transmission.
We then welded the plate into place and bolted it all up solid.
With this setup we were able to drive up to 50 mph without any major vibes. The cv joint should really help soak up the vibes and help offset the angles. Time will tell how long and how well it stands up to the small block 400 but it will definitely be better than the old setup and I still have my flat belly on the Pig.
FINALLY put the 6 degree caster shims in. Gonna finish the alignment and give her a test drive today
David,
That driveshaft is a piece of art work! Good fab skills, too. Is your pig, just a trail rig or do you drive on the road.
I've been rethinking my winch driveshaft angles, but now, maybe I'm ok.
That driveshaft is a piece of art work! Good fab skills, too. Is your pig, just a trail rig or do you drive on the road.
I've been rethinking my winch driveshaft angles, but now, maybe I'm ok.
Thanks man. It runs up and down the road regularly and even with the offset rear drive shaft it will cruise up to 70+ mph.
White Trash of the Elwood Chapter, TORC4x4.org, Cottonland Cruisers.
White Trash of the Elwood Chapter, TORC4x4.org, Cottonland Cruisers.
Started like this...
Spliced in some OEM wire, using the correct colors naturally.
Hit the connections with the hair dryer to snug 'em up...
Everything works again...
Spliced in some OEM wire, using the correct colors naturally.
Hit the connections with the hair dryer to snug 'em up...
Everything works again...
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Cool, I only have wood for ribs in the roof.
White Trash of the Elwood Chapter, TORC4x4.org, Cottonland Cruisers.
White Trash of the Elwood Chapter, TORC4x4.org, Cottonland Cruisers.
Fitzgerald
Hey! Where'd the mountians go?!?!?
I need to find me a beer store. Since moving to CO, I didn't realize until recently that the beer I'd been drinking was 3.2!!! (from the grocery store)
As for the FJ55, my garage has been successfully converted into a piggy restoration workshop, and the body will be coming off shortly. Pretty excited!
As for the FJ55, my garage has been successfully converted into a piggy restoration workshop, and the body will be coming off shortly. Pretty excited!
Glad to hear, you're getting started. What's going to be your plan of attack. Body or running gear first?
