Builds What did you do to your Land Cruiser/Toyota/Lexus 4X4 this week? (3 Viewers)

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After my 89 sitting on blocks for the last two months I finally made it up north with my Michelins mounted on stock wheels. Figure I would bring my Husky liner from and 100 series and trim it down to fit my FJ62. Floor is a fraction of a inch short front to back and between the wheel wells. Other than that the floor of the FJ62 is wider. The 100 series all weather mats fit the first and second rows almost perfect. Guess the interior of the 100 series isn't that much bigger.:meh:

Was nice to be able spend some time working in the garage and in the forest driving a cruiser.

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Heater T's, hoses and T stat on the 100. Serious Borrowed time on an 01, I was on. Previous owner was super meticulous, and had giant pride in ownership and tons of records to reflect. He didn't hold back. Made me proud to know him and buy one of his.

In an effort to continue to baseline, I dug into some of the other things... Heater Ts appeared original and "perfect". Mileage dictated replacing them. Well after CBT messing with them, one of them disintegrated and the other was crumbling...WHAT??? Also Original Tstat at 200k, wow. Rather rough looking but still getting it done.... new please.

If your Ts are original or old or time / mileage dictates.....ABSOLUTELY do not fumble/tweak/touch them in a strong manner... ASSUME they will break if you do. Simply be happy they work and get to Murf or call CBT asap and get it sorted out.

EVERYONE with a 100, should do these things asap, i'll bring em to the meets if anyone wants to see, you'll be amazed. Should go w/o saying but BIG, big shout out to Murf at CBT and Carl!! Thx Fellas! Y'all are top shelf. The peace of mine you provide with the attention to detail is awesome.


 
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yep, when i bought my 100 and took it out to lower sycamore creek within weeks of owning it, the heater tees broke and almost left me stranded. I replaced them.

A month or two later, I started learning the vehicle better. I had a timing belt, T-stat, water pump, spark plug, radiator (it cracked, old), hoses, belts and a lube job done at CBT. Now I am confident I can go anywhere. 215,000 miles.
 
This weekend I drove up Rice Peak in the Catalinas north of Tucson with the DM 4x4 club. Thought I'd be the first one up, but when I crested the top...there was stepmurr from the CSCs just taking it easy with his red Tacoma. He endured our intrusion with a great deal of grace. My group included two lifted jeeps and an (also 94) lifted Blazer. The only one that had some trouble getting up there was the Cherokee which didn't have lockers--took a couple attempts to make the gnarliest pitch. Apparently there are times that a locked center diff beats lift and big tires...my Cruiser galloped up no sweat. My only issue was I cut off one switchback too tight (trying to be cute with my excellent turn radius for a long wheelbase) got light in two tires, fortunately room to adjust my line and continue.
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Steve's MUD handle is "stepmurr"
 
fengler said:
I kinda want to get stuck, just to get the experience on how to figure getting out of it.
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Been stuck...in a cold wet muddy stream bed...in the dark...with a tiny shovel. Can't recommend....
 
brettwilm said:
This weekend I drove up Rice Peak in the Catalinas north of Tucson with the DM 4x4 club. Thought I'd be the first one up, but when I crested the top...there was stepmurr from the CSCs just taking it easy with his red Tacoma. He endured our intrusion with a great deal of grace. My group included two lifted jeeps and an (also 94) lifted Blazer. The only one that had some trouble getting up there was the Cherokee which didn't have lockers--took a couple attempts to make the gnarliest pitch. Apparently there are times that a locked center diff beats lift and big tires...my Cruiser galloped up no sweat. My only issue was I cut off one switchback too tight (trying to be cute with my excellent turn radius for a long wheelbase) got light in two tires, fortunately room to adjust my line and continue.
View attachment 1032114
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Nice seeing you again & thanks for the Pepperoni Roll!

'Cruiser Grinnin!
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New project started when a tail light fixture went bad on the Studebaker trailer, more pics to follow.
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the 40's spring make over is finally done...
  • Installed rear disc brake conversion
  • Repl rear main seal
  • Repl rear pinon seal
  • Front axle reseal
  • Upgraded the H4 headlights wth 90/100w bulbs - new harness w/ relays, ceramic plugs
  • completely rebuilt the GM tilt steering column internals - tightened it up and got my horns back!
  • installed all new brake hoses
  • rewelded battery box mounts
  • Clearanced out the IPOR skid plate where it was gently kissing the rear tcase
  • Installed metal shut off valve in rear ARB air line to keep the oil from being pushed up from the differential on long pressure building highway drives. Yes I replaced the appropriate seals in the locker which helped but didnt completely eliminate the spitting of gear oil at the underhood selonoid. I will open up the switch when hitting the trailhead.
Next on the agenda is replacing the OE fuse block with a new 12 gang box w/ updated mini fuses. The old one is getting loose and too many extra power wires hitchhiking on the glass fuses!
 
murf said:
the 40's spring make over is finally done...
  • Installed rear disc brake conversion
  • Repl rear main seal
  • Repl rear pinon seal
  • Front axle reseal
  • Upgraded the H4 headlights wth 90/100w bulbs - new harness w/ relays, ceramic plugs
  • completely rebuilt the GM tilt steering column internals - tightened it up and got my horns back!
  • installed all new brake hoses
  • rewelded battery box mounts
  • Clearanced out the IPOR skid plate where it was gently kissing the rear tcase
  • Installed metal shut off valve in rear ARB air line to keep the oil from being pushed up from the differential on long pressure building highway drives. Yes I replaced the appropriate seals in the locker which helped but didnt completely eliminate the spitting of gear oil at the underhood selonoid. I will open up the switch when hitting the trailhead.
Next on the agenda is replacing the OE fuse block with a new 12 gang box w/ updated mini fuses. The old one is getting loose and too many extra power wires hitchhiking on the glass fuses!
Click to expand...
It that all? Slacker...
 
murf said:
  • Installed metal shut off valve in rear ARB air line to keep the oil from being pushed up from the differential on long pressure building highway drives. Yes I replaced the appropriate seals in the locker which helped but didnt completely eliminate the spitting of gear oil at the underhood selonoid. I will open up the switch when hitting the trailhead.
Next on the agenda is replacing the OE fuse block with a new 12 gang box w/ updated mini fuses. The old one is getting loose and too many extra power wires hitchhiking on the glass fuses!
Click to expand...

Did you check the vent on the rear axle? If that was run somewhere high like in the engine compartment and had filter installed at the end instead of the spring loaded steel ball it probably wouldn't pressurize.

Don't throw that old fuse block away. Probably someone would be happy to get it. Not everyone has brought their FJ40 into the twenty first century. Some of us are living in the past.:rolleyes:
 
murf said:
the 40's spring make over is finally done...

  • Next on the agenda is replacing the OE fuse block with a new 12 gang box w/ updated mini fuses. The old one is getting loose and too many extra power wires hitchhiking on the glass fuses!
Click to expand...
What are you planning for a fuse block? I've been underwhelmed with the ones I've bought and am going to replace my glassies in the near future too.

I really want a waterproof block or at least one with a full cover. The secondary power distribution fuse block I installed is ok for under the hood, but I don't want any more exposed wires & fuses in the cab.
 
The interesting find during the Front axle reseal was the right front Steering Knuckle Bearing Cap. This is the cap at the bottom of the knuckle that the 4 bolts come through and the steering knuckle bearing rides on this. We found a hairline crack in the cap - although it doesnt appear to be a direct load bearing surface the crack was enough to warrant replacing it. Possibly with larger tires, age, and 4 wheeling over the years, it took its toll.

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Stepmurr said:
What are you planning for a fuse block? I've been underwhelmed with the ones I've bought and am going to replace my glassies in the near future too.

I really want a waterproof block or at least one with a full cover. The secondary power distribution fuse block I installed is ok for under the hood, but I don't want any more exposed wires & fuses in the cab.
Click to expand...


ima going to try this one > http://www.amazon.com/ATO-ATC-Fuse-...96&sr=1-2&keywords=ATO/ATC+FUSE+BLOCK+12+GANG
 
murf said:
View attachment 1037990 View attachment 1037991 View attachment 1037992 The interesting find during the Front axle reseal was the right front Steering Knuckle Bearing Cap. This is the cap at the bottom of the knuckle that the 4 bolts come through and the steering knuckle bearing rides on this. We found a hairline crack in the cap - although it doesnt appear to be a direct load bearing surface the crack was enough to warrant replacing it. Possibly with larger tires, age, and 4 wheeling over the years, it took its toll.
Click to expand...

My guess this is probably the one and only. Possibly a steel mix or temp glitch while casting.
 
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