Builds What did you do to your Land Cruiser/Toyota/Lexus 4X4 this week?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Sears marine Diehard group 31 weighs #75, my battery is 25.5 lbs lighter and has 68 Ah versus 100 Ah. If you are running a fridge the group 31 might be better but for now this is just my speed.

I'm running the die hard platinum group 34. Ran a fridge a couple of times overnight. Never had any problems the next morning, even on the mexico trip.
 
Put on a room addition:
room add.webp
 
I have found a direct relationship between battery AH and weight. You need bigger/heavier lead plates to gain AH capacity seems to be the bottom line.

Plate count matters, too. But an often overlooked concern is overall battery life. Some heavy wet cells are dead after 200 charge/discharge cycles (some even 20 will kill the battery), yet others live 2000 cycles. The paste applied to the plates and the lead alloy itself play important rolls in how a battery performs. If a battery spec sheet doesn't contain a DOD cycle life chart, the battery can pretty much be considered a pass for any cyclic use.

Search Trojan and Surrette for examples and tech data that explains why certain factors are important; I'm especially impressed with the Rolls/Surrette 4000 and 5000 series.
 
This is correct. I used to test batteries (hybrid vehicle) packs and we ran a specific charge/discharge cycle with an abc150 battery cycler
 
This is correct. I used to test batteries (hybrid vehicle) packs and we ran a specific charge/discharge cycle with an abc150 battery cycler

Cool -- I designed test systems and instrumentation for years, one was a pretty cool industrial conveyor that activated CRT's. As part of the system I needed to power the cal gear that traversed the conveyor and verified system performance. That special cart needed to last years and be idiot proof -- I learned a lot about battery tech in that project. What amazes me today is that wet cell and even agm semi-dry cell technology hasn't changed much in 20+ years. The pastes and alloys are a bit better. Other types, e.g., LiIon, have come a long ways, but folk still use wet cells for most cyclic applications - except when weight matters, then you see LiIon types.
 
Cool -- I designed test systems and instrumentation for years, one was a pretty cool industrial conveyor that activated CRT's. As part of the system I needed to power the cal gear that traversed the conveyor and verified system performance. That special cart needed to last years and be idiot proof -- I learned a lot about battery tech in that project. What amazes me today is that wet cell and even agm semi-dry cell technology hasn't changed much in 20+ years. The pastes and alloys are a bit better. Other types, e.g., LiIon, have come a long ways, but folk still use wet cells for most cyclic applications - except when weight matters, then you see LiIon types.

Nice! I am a test and design engineer, I too help with instrumentation and design of test systems. WOOHOO ENGINEERING!
 
Finished the Puma install and re directed the fitting.

Replaced the drivers side window belt moulding and the interior moulding, broke the mirror plastic cover too.
image.webp
image.webp
image.webp
image.webp
 
I still need to do that on the LX - just packed the Stift into a moving box today . . .
 
the LX ran several moving trips today . . .

(and so did the rental car, but it isn't a Toyota)
 
View attachment 1007586
View attachment 1007587

Took my running boards off and dremeled the front flares to clean up the look. Turned out nice!

What did you do to get the adhesive off after you remove the rubber molding on your 80? I had a loose piece, pulled it off. Tried various solvents (going to monstaline this spring) and ended up putting new 3M tape and sticking it back on.
 
What did you do to get the adhesive off after you remove the rubber molding on your 80? I had a loose piece, pulled it off. Tried various solvents (going to monstaline this spring) and ended up putting new 3M tape and sticking it back on.

I didn't have any adhesive maybe that was added to yours to help keep the flares on by a PO? I did end up putting a little adhesive at the bottom of my flares once I took the rubber bits off.
 
I bought a PUMA air compressor and now I have to figure out where/how to mount it.
 
Washed it and replaced the two license plate bulbs.

Thanks to Rudster for letting Murf and I know the lights were burned out.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom