Build What did you do to your Land Cruiser/Toyota/Lexus 4X4 this week?

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Thanks for sharing your temps!

I think this (small) collection of data points backs up a theory I have. As I wondered about what feels to me like higher temps for our 01 100 Series I checked the FSM. In the SFI section there is this picture:

(WARNING - we are heading into a little more tech and a lot less "what my rig did to me yesterday" - turn back now...) :doh:

Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor section:

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Note that the Y axis is logarithmic. The thing that makes me feel more comfortable is that down there in the 190F range, the "acceptable" region is pretty wide - which means the variation in our numbers is more to do with the accuracy of the ECT than it is in the cooling capabilities of the rig.

Thoughts?

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My head is starting to hurt :eek: from all this new technical stuff (that I cant understand:() you guys are starting to post. :confused:

Can anyone recommend any utube videos (Im a visual guy:doh:) to help the challenged?

Im simple...the LC is running = good
The LC quit running = bad
:flipoff2:
 
Charts Decoded:

1) 100C (212F) When the temp resistive element is in boiling water your ohmmeter should read about 0.2 ohms. Technically a challenging measurement usless you own something like an Fluke 87 or equivalent meter (with relative measurements).

2) 25C (78F) apprx room temp - the resistance should be about 1,500 ohms (1.5k).

3) 0C (32F) close to fridge temps, the element should read about 5,000 ohms (5k).

4) -18C (0F) apprx close to freezer temps - the element should read about 20,000 ohms (20k).

If out of vehicle #2 would be my choice of test, then while watching the meter, touch the sensor with an icecube and see if the resistance starts going up... if yes, then the sensor is probably good unless it has some odd failure at high temps, but you should see that while driving (erratic temp readings).

If in vehicle, and the engine running, I'd expect a reading somewhere near 0.5 ohms... again, a challenge for most auto shop quality meters.

ps: my typing skills have plummeted of late -- sorry for all the frigging typos.
 
Got my 2nd battery tray in. As always thanks to Murf's discount! Might just be a while before I get an actual battery set up in there.


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I'm trying to keep it cheap and simple, stemming from the thread on Expedition Portal http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...ke-a-cheap-isolated-dual-battery-setup-for-50 I read every page and had to go back to page one to get grounded again. I realize it isn't too difficult but so many way and things to add it got overwhelming. I can't afford any of the fancy setups, National Luna and the like. I purchased a PAC 200 amp isolator with the battery monitor. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CEDZBK/?tag=ihco-20

I also bought 4 ga copper jumper cables for the wiring and 200 amp mega fuses. Not very versed on it but have done a ton of research. No winch planned, just power some accessories and maybe a portal air compressor.

Any advice is welcomed.
 
No problem with the cheap isolator ... however:

4AWG is only rated to carry 70A, it will carry 95A if you have the really good stuff, and good stuff is normally not found in jumper cables.

A 200A fuse isn't recommened by any standard since its 250% the wire rating. High quality 2/0 wire is the smallest copper wire rated to carry 195A (i.e., suitable for a 200A fuse).
 
92LXAZ said:
I'm trying to keep it cheap and simple, stemming from the thread on Expedition Portal http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...ke-a-cheap-isolated-dual-battery-setup-for-50 I read every page and had to go back to page one to get grounded again. I realize it isn't too difficult but so many way and things to add it got overwhelming. I can't afford any of the fancy setups, National Luna and the like. I purchased a PAC 200 amp isolator with the battery monitor. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CEDZBK/?tag=ihco-20

I also bought 4 ga copper jumper cables for the wiring and 200 amp mega fuses. Not very versed on it but have done a ton of research. No winch planned, just power some accessories and maybe a portal air compressor.

Any advice is welcomed.
Click to expand...

I personally like the Expedition Portal set up in the 1st post (using a solenoid), cheap and simple. Im not a fan of isolators having seen too many go bad and when it happens you end up with 2 dead batteries. As GW pointed out fusing at 200A is not recommended with #4. Follow the diagram in the Expo 1st post and go with 80A.

What ever system you end up with just make sure you fully understand how it works. I have been out with many wheelers and when things dont work, they have no idea what is wrong or how to fix it.
 
Thanks for the clarification. Sorry I confused myself as well. I actually went the cable route to wire the 400w inverter direct to battery with a 40 amp fuse not for the dual battery set up, I'm a ways from that still. I was following the diagram where he did have the 2 ga with the 200 amp fuses a few pages in. I would have gone back to that when I was ready at any rate. Or I may scale it all back to the smaller solenoid or isolator and fuses. Thanks to both again.
 
Read the inverter manual and make sure it has a low battery cutoff. It should automatically shut itself off somewhere above 10.5 Volts. At that point the battery is pretty much 100% discharged, but it might start a well tuned vehicle once. And whatever you do, stop using all dc power when the inverter stops. Otherwise, one of those jumper battery packs is a good idea.

My only issue with the 80A diagram for a brand X combiner is it doesn't respect when it combines the batts. Key on - bang - they are combined. Harshly. Probably why 4 AWG was used - as a current limit to prevent needing 4/0. I'd probably use 6' of 4 in the circuit, maybe 10', as a limit resistor to keep inrush semi-controlled. I'd be worried about welding tjhe solenoid the contacts, too.

2 AWG and 2/0 AWG are NOT the same size. Just to be sure you know. 2 AWG will not carry 200A.

2/0 is short form for 00 AWG (two ought) -- 4/0 is short form fro 0000 AWG (four ought)
 
About 15 pages in I still hadn't found the inverter system - but had read enough to be afraid. There is like 0.1% of the population that needs triple battery banks (dual combineres). Yet they go on and on about needing them. Fringe comes to mind - adding parts and pieces just to be cool.

Two banks: START (always keep pristine with a starting battery); and HOUSE (always used for recharagable applications).

My favorite combiner is a 400A manual switch.
-- http://www.marinco.com/en/771-s-ez

You just need to be smart enough to know when to flip it. An electronic combiner also works, but electronics fail, and when they do your result may vary.
 
To add to the complication of what on the surface seems like an easy task. A lot depends on what and how you are using your dual battery set up. Chevy for years used a constant duty solenoid and #10 wire for its factory battery set up. Many will say 'WHAT' but if you used it for the intended purpose it is fine. It gets back to understanding what you have, exactly how it work, and what your needs are.

Maybe this could be a topic of discussion at a CSC meeting:idea: With that said no way is the right way given everyone needs are not the same.
 
I'll echo Phil's comments. Unless using a system designed by someone like an engineer, think toaster, electricity must be understood before used.

Even simple light circuits have issues that need to be considered. Not common knowledge, but when a light bulb filament pops, think 7w christmas tree lamp, there is always a chance the filament bond wire arcs itself over to the return side and becomes a direct short across the AC or DC mains. Many house fires were caused by this exact thing, and now why every christmas light set that is UL rated has a fuse in it. That's on 15A breakers. But in a car we're talking about a 1200A breakerless source called a primary battery. Mosts arc welders use less current than that to weld 1/2" steel plate.


If you know Ohm's Law and Thevenen's Theories, and have a good electrical engineering reference nearby (to find things like code ampacity fusing currents and wire resistance), you can probably get by. But there will still be things that might reach out and bite you that only experience teaches.

One huge common mistake is placing the fuse at the end of a wire near the load, rather than at the beginning of the wire at the power source. Think AC into your house, the breaker panel is where the power hits the house and is split out to individual circuits to teh lights and outlets. There is a reason for doing it that way.

Sum day I'll learn to spel rite the phirst thyme.
 
Scangauge; 185-210 with a S/C, normally right around 190 and rarely over 200.
Did 40 miles primarily in low range the other day (around 100 degrees out) and it never went over 190.
Then got out on the highway to head home and the minute I got up to 75mph it jumped to 206-208, weird.
 
OverLand Cruisers said:
Scangauge; 185-210 with a S/C, normally right around 190 and rarely over 200.
Did 40 miles primarily in low range the other day (around 100 degrees out) and it never went over 190.
Then got out on the highway to head home and the minute I got up to 75mph it jumped to 206-208, weird.
Click to expand...

At idle or very low rpms, the supercharger uses the bypass - it kicks in when throttle is used to any degree, thats why the higher temps at highway. when that sucker is spooling up at high revs and for extended periods it generates alot of heat.
 
murf said:
At idle or very low rpms, the supercharger uses the bypass - it kicks in when throttle is used to any degree, thats why the higher temps at highway. when that sucker is spooling up at high revs and for extended periods it generates alot of heat.
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Ah ha!! Duh, I feel stupid.
It makes complete sense now.
 
No need to think that! Overall PBR, sounds like your are in a pretty good temp range in this heat with a SC. :clap:

I had to do several modifications to get into that range when it is this hot.
 
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