Every time I've looked their NLA. Tried search newer modes as well.
Updated my earlier post with the Wesco part number.
What did you do on your 70 series today? (39 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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Updated my earlier post with the Wesco part number.
I got them for my 89 bj70 as well, also fit without mods. Went through Dave Stedman and got them in grey.
For anyone looking for grey-
73210-60630-B0 x2 - front seat outer
73240-60242-B1 - front seat inner LH
73230-60242-B1 - front seat inner RH
I didn’t realize they “were a thing”. The shop had piles of them laying around.Whaaat?? I never got a sticker with my last last order from partsouq...
Well, I am not sure if they are or not... it was more of a tongue-in-cheek comment. Honestly, I don't stick anything on my cruiser, just personal preference (though I would be sorely tempted to put one of the cruiser outfitters stickers on - lol). I actually removed whatever stickers were on mine when I got it, and even removed the dealer sticker.I didn’t realize they “were a thing”. The shop had piles of them laying around.
That said, though these particular stickers are hideous, lol, I do collect them since I was 12, I just keep em in those old school photo-albums (remember those?)
Other than the QR code decal for the company, I also try to avoid stickers on any of my Land Cruisers.
I never cared for the aftermarket running boards that came with the truck, and the wife has a hard time getting in the truck stepping on them. So I managed to find a pair of OEM boards in poor condition, rusted in and snapped bolts, scuffed aluminum etc.
Anyways, after drilling out the aluminum rivets, the brackets went on a soak in evaporust, I removed the old captive nuts that had stuck broken bolts with a grinder, then tig welded in new captives out of 10.9 class M6 hardware. The cleaned articles went for a 1 minute hydrochloric acid etch followed by nickel electroplating (homebrew electrolyte). I then painted them with epoxy black paint.
The aluminum boards were pitiful looking, but after wet sanding with 400, 800, 1000 and then scotch pad, they looked nice, shiny and uniform. The problem was that Toyota had a white mat finish (not that shiny) from factory on these Land cruisers that I wanted to replicate as I hate it when people polish these things. So after some experimentation, I found that a phosphoric acid scrub was exactly what I needed so that's what I did.
The aluminum was going to be left in an active etched state (not good if you wanted the finish to last) so I sealed them with Alumaclear (a specialized aluminum clear coat sold at big rigs suppliers).
Pics of the original condition, after nickel plating, and the etched and clear coated board, and the finished articles.
Cheers!
Anyways, after drilling out the aluminum rivets, the brackets went on a soak in evaporust, I removed the old captive nuts that had stuck broken bolts with a grinder, then tig welded in new captives out of 10.9 class M6 hardware. The cleaned articles went for a 1 minute hydrochloric acid etch followed by nickel electroplating (homebrew electrolyte). I then painted them with epoxy black paint.
The aluminum boards were pitiful looking, but after wet sanding with 400, 800, 1000 and then scotch pad, they looked nice, shiny and uniform. The problem was that Toyota had a white mat finish (not that shiny) from factory on these Land cruisers that I wanted to replicate as I hate it when people polish these things. So after some experimentation, I found that a phosphoric acid scrub was exactly what I needed so that's what I did.
The aluminum was going to be left in an active etched state (not good if you wanted the finish to last) so I sealed them with Alumaclear (a specialized aluminum clear coat sold at big rigs suppliers).
Pics of the original condition, after nickel plating, and the etched and clear coated board, and the finished articles.
Cheers!
jblueridge
SILVER Star
Ummm, you electroplated them at home?
I gotta hear more!
I gotta hear more!
Easy stuff. The biggest thing is to keep everything super clean throughout the process.
1. Get some nickel strips from eBay etc.
2. Get a power source like an old phone charger etc. I used a variable power supply
Use the nickel strips as electrodes in a glass container full of white vinegar and brew the electrolyte for about 2 hours on a 5v 1.2 a/h or so. You'll end up with a light green clear solution. (You'll only need to do this once as the solution will last forever as long as you keep it clean)
3. Use the solution to electroplate the parts you need plated by surgically cleaning the part and then attaching to the negative side and a nickel electrode to the positive and boom you are electroplating. Takes about 20 mins for a nice think plate.
* Cleaning the parts: degreaser followed by brake clean etc will work nice (use gloves to handle after cleaning to keep oils from skin off of the part). Another thing that works wonders is a quick hydrochloric acid dip (pool acid) would both act as a final clean and etch and prep the metal for electroplating.
Cheers!
jblueridge
SILVER Star
Tigris
I have a 20 gallon barrel setup to provide electro de-rusting. Haven’t used it in a while.
Power was a Schumacher car battery charger… it died a few years ago.
I might try the nickel plating. Thanks for the info.
I have a 20 gallon barrel setup to provide electro de-rusting. Haven’t used it in a while.
Power was a Schumacher car battery charger… it died a few years ago.
I might try the nickel plating. Thanks for the info.
Thanks @jblueridge
That is an awesome setup for electrolysis de rusting you got there! I love using electrolysis on parts that are too large for the evaporust bath (we all know evaporust is great but not cheap), electrolysis is practically free, totally safe on your good steel, and as long as you scrub off the black iron oxide film afterwards it is the ideal way of de-rusting.
I electroplate with nickel primarily due to its superior corrosion resistance, attractive finish, and high mechanical abrasion resistance. I do zink plate as well (although without passivates or brighteners) if the parts were too big for my nickel solution. But using a homemade zink electrolyte will yield a rather dull grey finish that is very good when it comes to corrosion resistance but not the most aesthetically pleasing.
For a comprehensive and entertaining YouTube video on electroplating, check out Geoffrey Croker (if you don't mind a little Land Rover Series III content that is
) 
Eff the stickers.....hand over the zeiss bino'sI didn’t realize they “were a thing”. The shop had piles of them laying around.
Am in the market for a decent pair
prwillard2
SILVER Star
Swaro or bust my friend.
Can’t say enough good things about Zeiss. I had a pair that after about 3 years had a lens issue and wouldn’t focus correctly. I called Zeiss and they had me send it in for repair. As it turns out, it was not repairable and that particular model number was no longer in production so they sent me a considerably more expensive model (at no charge) to replace mine.
Those bumpers are made strong compared to the VW! That's a pity for your son! Partsourq is definitely getting some biz from us
Good this no one is hurt life is short to short
Hello,
Rainy season is about to start around here. Time to replace windshield wipers.
I replaced the wipers. Tip: one wiper is 410 mm or 16 in. long. The other, passenger side on an LHD, is 425 mm or 17 in.
I remember reading that one wiper should be 50 mm or 2 in. longer than the other. It is 25 mm or 1 in.
Juan
Rainy season is about to start around here. Time to replace windshield wipers.
I replaced the wipers. Tip: one wiper is 410 mm or 16 in. long. The other, passenger side on an LHD, is 425 mm or 17 in.
I remember reading that one wiper should be 50 mm or 2 in. longer than the other. It is 25 mm or 1 in.
Juan
Absolutely.Those bumpers are made strong compared to the VW! That's a pity for your son! Partsourq is definitely getting some biz from us
I have had a chance to look at his(my old) car and it may not be as bad as it looks. I think I can get away with a hood and the attachment/crossmember it connects to (as well as the radiator/condenser/lights.) He drove it home (behind me and slowly), so I think the rad and condenser is ok since there appear to be no leaks. Both headlights are working ok, so a little sweat equity and around $1000 from the wreckers (final tally yet to be confirmed once I actually get it torn down) and we should have him back on the road. However, that is all on hold as he is between seasonal jobs.
He hit the brakes just before impact so that lowered his front end enough to miss the headlights, so the hood and upper support took the brunt.
He was feeling pretty terrible about himself, so I commiserated with him on some of my youthful doozies, told him I loved him regardless, and reminded him of all the good things about him. Not that this shouldn't be a learning experience of course, I think that goes without saying, but he felt a lot better.
And yes, a relatively inexpensive lesson since no one was hurt.
If you search for parts in wreck yards across America this is the place to start prospecting:
CAR-PART.COM
Thanks man. I wouldn't have guessed that much on the repair panel cost. I was hoping I might get lucky and hear they were perhaps 1/4 that price and would fit the BJ73 frame and I could go about repairing. At some point it will be time to tackle this and I'll be in the market for a windshield frame. Right now other things are priority. .........On a steel body repair note for anyone who knows out there: I recently successfully welded stainless steel to mild steel using mild steel welding wire and straight argon gas.......I think I will find some scrap stainless sheet metal (old sinks, apliances etc.) for patch panels when I do rust repair..
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Cheers
bottombracket
SILVER Star
