What did you do on your 70 series today? (21 Viewers)

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Simple question for you guys. I am new to the 70 series world. I need to replace some hardware on a fender that is rusted out on a 97' HZJ73. Hoping to just pick up some bolts that work at the hardware store after I hopefully can drill out and retap the rivet mounted receiving nuts. Assuming I can find bolts that fit, what material bolts am I looking for? Aluminum, stainless steel, zinc coated ect? I just don't want to promote galvanic corrosion.

Thanks,
Sean
 
@OGBeno have you ever seen any definitive info on which particular frost plug, and how it should be clocked? I've always held off on an immersion heater for my 1hz because I couldn't come up with these two important details.
 
@OGBeno have you ever seen any definitive info on which particular frost plug, and how it should be clocked? I've always held off on an immersion heater for my 1hz because I couldn't come up with these two important details.
Check out their website they usually say where and what orientation to mount
 
Temps are dropping intp the 20's at night and we've been getting winter diesel for just over a month.

26 degree start up on the 1HZ was flawless

Cycled the key twice and it started right up.

Curious to see what startup looks like when it drops to -20
I did some glow system testing last spring (hzj77 24v glow system) and was pretty surprised with the results. The glow continues to grow up the shaft of the plug at full voltage for up to 8 seconds and then partial glow after that. At lower coolant temps this would likely change... But what surprised me was how long after the light went out that the glow system stopped glowing. I rarely do a double glow now, even at lower temps. I just wait for the light to go out, then wait a little longer until after the second soft click before I crank it over. Pretty much zero smoke, zero stumble. (My ACSD is fully. functional and adjusted too, which helps.)
 
Troopy became more and more challenging to start over the last couple weeks, assumed I had bad glow plugs, but they all checked out when I got to them and tested them. Turns out the glow plug relay was bad. Took it off and sure enough there was a severed main connection.
New relay from Partsouq came about 30 minutes ago and it is already in the Troopy and she is starting up great again.

IMG_0751.jpg
 
Glad to finally fix the shoddy a-pillar (and runner) bodywork on the HJ75. Kelly and Spenser did an exceptional job fixing horrible bodywork the right way: with OEM Toyota Japanese steel, not layers upon layers of bondo (talk about unsafe). The good ol' Troopy is going to be done and ready for two months of road trippin' this week.

I can't recommend Kelly and Spenser's operation enough. They do impeccable work. Thanks, guys! See ya soon to pick it up!

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Can you buy steel patch/replacement panels for those windshield frame pillars? My BJ73 windshield frame was rotted and repaired with bondo by previous owner. It's starting to fail this year. I'd love to see someone bring in a number of windshield frames for $500 each again. If I could get pillar patch panels I could probably weld/repair the frame and have it look OK and be strong again.
 
Simple question for you guys. I am new to the 70 series world. I need to replace some hardware on a fender that is rusted out on a 97' HZJ73. Hoping to just pick up some bolts that work at the hardware store after I hopefully can drill out and retap the rivet mounted receiving nuts. Assuming I can find bolts that fit, what material bolts am I looking for? Aluminum, stainless steel, zinc coated ect? I just don't want to promote galvanic corrosion.

Thanks,
Sean
Hi Sean, welcome to the 70s madness 🙂

Although ih8mud is the right forum, you will get a lot better help if you start your own thread with this question.

I am assuming you are talking about the hardware that joins the fender flares to the actual fender but I'm not sure. If that is the case, I would recommend replacing the hardware with similar to OEM. There are advantages to using stainless steel but as you are aware, galling and galvanic corrosion are to be considered. I would stay away from black oxide finishes and stick with yellow zink chromate.

At minimum I would stay away from any fastener class below 10.9, refrain from using three dissimilar metals in one sandwich, for example, brass rivnut, stainless steel screw and zink plated washer. I just finished refurbishing a set of OE running boards to replace the aftermarket ones that came with the truck so I was thinking galvanic corrosion all day lol

Cheers!
 
P.O.I.D.H.!
 
Can you buy steel patch/replacement panels for those windshield frame pillars? My BJ73 windshield frame was rotted and repaired with bondo by previous owner. It's starting to fail this year. I'd love to see someone bring in a number of windshield frames for $500 each again. If I could get pillar patch panels I could probably weld/repair the frame and have it look OK and be strong again.

Might be worth a look? Bottom of the page. Not $500, but then it's a permanent repair so one and done.

 
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I did some glow system testing last spring (hzj77 24v glow system) and was pretty surprised with the results. The glow continues to grow up the shaft of the plug at full voltage for up to 8 seconds and then partial glow after that. At lower coolant temps this would likely change... But what surprised me was how long after the light went out that the glow system stopped glowing. I rarely do a double glow now, even at lower temps. I just wait for the light to go out, then wait a little longer until after the second soft click before I crank it over. Pretty much zero smoke, zero stumble. (My ACSD is fully. functional and adjusted too, which helps.)

thanks for the info, much appreciated.

I stood outside the vehicle so I could listen/hear better and definately heard what I assume to be the timer audibly go off several seconds after the glow light on the dash went out.

I love this time of the year when temps drop but we arent getting snow yet and the salt/brine on the roads that go along with it that will signal the end of the driving season for the 77......we oil undercoated it a couple months back when it was still warm so it would wick into everywhere but this vehicle will never see a salted road.

As soon as we see our first snow I'll do a final oil change and send a sample off to blackstone to see what we have.

If I were going to put a heater of some sort on the 77 I would probably put a magnetic heater on the bottom of the oil pan, getting lubrication into the engine at start up is the most important thing and warm coolant doesnt usually transfer to warm oil with the oil sitting in the bottom of the oil pan quite a ways away from coolant jacket
 
Can you buy steel patch/replacement panels for those windshield frame pillars? My BJ73 windshield frame was rotted and repaired with bondo by previous owner. It's starting to fail this year. I'd love to see someone bring in a number of windshield frames for $500 each again. If I could get pillar patch panels I could probably weld/repair the frame and have it look OK and be strong again.

IIRC, your 73 has a fold down windshield right? Those are ubiquitous. Cruiser Parts ( https://shop.cruiserparts.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2317 ) has them. Partsouq, Megazip, etc etc. Depending on your local Toyota dealer, you could order them direct too... You can't buy an old grey market Cruiser and not expect to pay serious money to repair them. $800 is cheap compared to what a body shop will cost you to repair a frame. Just buy one and bolt it on. You don't even have to paint it (yet)

Since I don't have a folding frame, I bought my A-Pillars from Partsouq. They're from a late model HZJ77, and they welded right in. You wanna know how much they were? $450 a side. Plus shipping.

The Troopcarrier windshield glass is bigger (since there's no folding frame) - and ANY "old school" body shop can match the OEM profile.
 

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