What did you do on your 70 series today? (17 Viewers)

[theglobb]

This isn’t as much as “What did you do to your 70 Series today” as it is “What did you put in your 70 Series today”.

Last filling station I visited, the pump shut off at $100 and my tank wasn't full yet...had to shut it off, re-insert card to top it off.

that happened to me as well. shut off at 100.

I was thinking about this on my way driving back to college and looking at the prices, $2.94 for gas here in NC and $5.45 for diesel... The Red Rockets engine blowing up, twice, sucked immensely but happened at a decent time regarding the price of diesel currently. Once I get it running again I'm obviously gonna drive it everywhere, but will just miss filling up my tank for $25. Really hope the diesel prices will have come down by then

This little pickup has spoiled me!

 

[Houser]

Today I ran a wire from the #4 glow plug to the glow plug light. Now when I turn on the ignition the glow plug light comes
on bright for a few seconds then switches to dim. I start the engine and the glow plug light stays on for the duration
of the low voltage cycle. I also installed a switch with a wire directly to the low voltage glow plug relay so I can keep the
glow plugs hot without having to restart the engine.

 

[ATL Cruiser]

Today I ran a wire from the #4 glow plug to the glow plug light. Now when I turn on the ignition the glow plug light comes
on bright for a few seconds then switches to dim. I start the engine and the glow plug light stays on for the duration
of the low voltage cycle. I also installed a switch with a wire directly to the low voltage glow plug relay so I can keep the
glow plugs hot without having to restart the engine.

I love the switch idea. I drove a VW TDI for the last 20 years. Half of it in Iowa during the -30F winters. I would glow it multiple times before starting every morning. That switch would have solved that issue entirely.

What was your purpose for running the wire for the dash light?

 

[Houser]

I ran the wire to the dash light so I would know when the high voltage relay had timed out.

 

[FJ73Texas]

I did an oil and fuel filter change yesterday since I was home part of the day. I buy my oil by the bucket and the price has now gone up to $115 per bucket. If I am not mistaken, I think it was $80 for the same pre-pandemic.

I also changed the fuel filter which seemed to solve a slightly rough idle that I was blaming on the injectors. Ran smoother afterwards. Maybe I got bad diesel somewhere along the way prior to all of this.

Either way, I am thinking of pulling the injectors and having them rebuilt.

 

[sark]

I did an oil and fuel filter change yesterday since I was home part of the day. I buy my oil by the bucket and the price has now gone up to $115 per bucket. If I am not mistaken, I think it was $80 for the same pre-pandemic.

I also changed the fuel filter which seemed to solve a slightly rough idle that I was blaming on the injectors. Ran smoother afterwards. Maybe I got bad diesel somewhere along the way prior to all of this.

Either way, I am thinking of pulling the injectors and having them rebuilt.

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Probably that Shell Rotella you use. I had a bad run the one time I used that. Started causing leaks right away. Switched back to Chevron Delo and back to normal. @FJBen

 

[FJ73Texas]

Probably that Shell Rotella you use. I had a bad run the one time I used that. Started causing leaks right away. Switched back to Chevron Delo and back to normal. @FJBen

I have been running it since I had the PZJ70 and now this HZJ77 about 4-5 years now?. Never had leaks in either. Scary to learn this though.

 

[sark]

I have been running it since I had the PZJ70 and now this HZJ77 about 4-5 years now?. Never had leaks in either. Scary to learn this though.

I'm only kidding, it's from a comment FJBen made on my build thread lol

 

[AZdan]

my fuel and temp gauge died. Replaced one cap on the flexible PCB in the gauge cluster. Put the gauge cluster back together and it still did not work. Removed the fuel and temp meters from the gauge cluster and found that there is a built in CVR, Constant Voltage Regulator built into the two gauges. It takes the 24VDC and heats up a wire wrapped around a bi-metal strip. At the end of the strip is a pair of contacts. As the bi-metal strip gets hot and bends the contacts move apart and break the circuit, allowing the bi-metal strip to cool and the two contacts to close the circuit again. So the the 24VDC is being dropped to a lower voltage, by a duty cycle. Turning the 24VDC on and off. There is also an adjustment screw on one of the contacts to change the duty cycle and average output voltage. There was very high ohms when the contacts were closed. Used a needle file and so acetone to clean up the two contacts and got down to 1 ohm. Put everything back together and my gauges work again.

​

 

[Houser]

my fuel and temp gauge died. Replaced one cap on the flexible PCB in the gauge cluster. Put the gauge cluster back together and it still did not work. Removed the fuel and temp meters from the gauge cluster and found that there is a built in CVR, Constant Voltage Regulator built into the two gauges. It takes the 24VDC and heats up a wire wrapped around a bi-metal strip. At the end of the strip is a pair of contacts. As the bi-metal strip gets hot and bends the contacts move apart and break the circuit, allowing the bi-metal strip to cool and the two contacts to close the circuit again. So the the 24VDC is being dropped to a lower voltage, by a duty cycle. Turning the 24VDC on and off. There is also an adjustment screw on one of the contacts to change the duty cycle and average output voltage. There was very high ohms when the contacts were closed. Used a needle file and so acetone to clean up the two contacts and got down to 1 ohm. Put everything back together and my gauges work again.

​

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good to know. Just today my temp and fuel gauges stared flaking out. Ill take the cluster apart and try cleaning the contacts. seems much easer than chasing phantom ground faults..

 

[ATL Cruiser]

That is really awesome and what I love about these old cars. You can still fix about anything in them. Imagine trying to do that in a modern BMW.

I wonder if the tachometer shares a similar design. Mine sticks at 0rpm in the morning for about the first 30s and then works perfectly.

 

[robmobile73]

I love the switch idea. I drove a VW TDI for the last 20 years. Half of it in Iowa during the -30F winters. I would glow it multiple times before starting every morning. That switch would have solved that issue entirely.

What was your purpose for running the wire for the dash light?

I love my full manual glow plug switch. So simple.

Montana national guard in Missoula had endless problems with HMMWV glowplugs and glowplug controllers burning out and vehicles not starting until a smart maintenance NCOIC wired up a full manual system using a momentary switch, starter solonoid, and splitting the batteries to only run 12V to the glow plugs. 100% reliability and zero failure for 2 years on 30+ vehicles when I was there.

LC has a endlessly better system than the original HMMWV, but full manual is an option on any glow plug diesel when the factory system is no longer functioning as it should.

 

[sodafeld1]

I cleaned and repacked my rear wheel bearings. Not exciting, new or particularly interesting. Some jobs just feel like discipline. Great it wasn't raining!

 

[Bogan]

I'm down at OLC4x4 with @OGBeno getting a LRA aux tank installed and a complete brake system overhaul on my HJ/RJ75 before we take off to Baja for a few weeks...

 

[JuanDH92]

The new acquisition for my FZJ73 OEM wheels 15 × 7JJ (-20).
The next photo is going to be with the new wheels...

 

[svsisu]

I'm down at OLC4x4 with @OGBeno getting a LRA aux tank installed and a complete brake system overhaul on my HJ/RJ75 before we take off to Baja for a few weeks...

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Nice, did you originally have an OEM AUX tank?

 

[Bogan]

Nice, did you originally have an OEM AUX tank?

I did not. We got the LRA "replacement" aux tank and will be tying it into a center console gas pod.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

I did not. We got the LRA "replacement" aux tank and will be tying it into a center console gas pod.

Transfer pump to your main tank or transfer valves to supply to your injection pump?

 

[Bogan]

Transfer pump to your main tank or transfer valves to supply to your injection pump?

Transfer valves could be problematic so we're using a transfer pump (easier to replace in case it gets buggered). I'll carry a spare transfer pump.

 

[jblueridge]

USed 24V to launch model rockets.