AndrewHadji
GOLD Star
Shes back. On the road at least. Still lots of little projects but can drive her now
What did you do on your 70 series today? (36 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
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My accomplishment is probably admitting that I earned the dunce award.
Weekend before last, I replaced my brake booster on my BJ70 with a new one. Once done, I took it for a test drive and found the brakes to be dragging in a big way. Returned to my shop, read the factory service manual for adjusting the brake pedal very carefully. I re-adjusted the pedal per the instructions and found no drag on my test drive, so I thought I was good. However, the next day when I drove to work I found that the front pads gradually built up drag after five miles (or so) to the point I didn't have enough power to get her in 5th gear on a down hill. Over the next few days I made several attempts at re-adjusting the pedal without any improvement.
On Friday, I gave up. I disconnected the vacuum from the brake booster and headed to a local shop Land Cruiser mechanic because he was confident that he could fix it. On the drive to the mechanic's shop, the brakes were dragging again so I turned around and took the BJ70 home. Back in my shop, I pulled the brake master cylinder. While contemplating my situation and clueless as to my next step, I looked over the master cylinder for any obvious problems and actuated it checking for good fluid discharge; which it appeared to be. Then I looked over the new booster and the original booster. At this point I noticed a big difference between the boosters that I had not noticed before. The actuator rod on the new booster extended ~1/2 inch further out from the mounting face then original booster. I went back to the service manual and found confirmation in the booster rebuild section that the actuation rod required adjustment. I adjusted it per the manual and my problem was solved.
The information was in the service manual all along and I failed to read all the sections required to properly set up a new brake booster. Certainly was a Homer Simpson moment ...
So I was correct!
. Glad you got it squared away Larry.
No. I used a Phillips screw driver to mark on the side of the shank for the max insertion depth of the booster rod into the brake master cylinder. Then I used the same screw driver as a gauge to mark the depth of master cylinder flange that inserts into the booster. Measuring the length difference between these two marks gave me the distance the rod would be proud of the booster.
This approach did not yield the zero tolerance called out in the service manual, but it got me close enough.
Good luck
jblueridge
SILVER Star
My new LSPV arrived. 6 days from Order to Delivery from Partsouq.
Interesting slide mechanism on the bracket.
I got the new one in.
Decided to graft a longer adjustment length for the spring arm attachment.
Interesting slide mechanism on the bracket.
I got the new one in.
Decided to graft a longer adjustment length for the spring arm attachment.
The LSPV is available as a normal US market part through TMS.
Took mine down to the South Is last month. Took in a bit of biking & hiking.
Found a boat I wanted so towed that 1400km home
Cheers
Clint
Found a boat I wanted so towed that 1400km home
Cheers
Clint
So I was correct!
My dunce cap just got bigger. I don't recall you saying that. I must have been so fixed on adjusting the pedal that I never heard you mention adjusting the actuating rod.
did some towing last weekend
That boat is great! What a little ripper!
I want your top where I get oneToday was "Bring your cruiser to work" day...which seems to be almost every day now.
The part number for the top is 65910-60110-A0 but there is a lot more involved to get the top installed.
NM Frontier
SILVER Star
Drove it!
After 14 years and more than 100 000 very tough kilos I had the front suspension replaced with OME coils and shocks and the rear suspension upgraded to OME shocks. The old front coil was fitted above the rear blades and the whole suspension ended about 4 cm higher, a very close fit in my garage now. No more rear sag, even with the 160 l tank behind the rear axle. Also new Cooper ST,s all around. I took it to our local Damaraland canyons and the ride was really much improved. Eve the lean on corners much less. A great car improved!
The part number for the top is 65910-60110-A0 but there is a lot more involved to get the top installed.
Got a link to what all is required? Did some searching with that part number but can't find any other threads with it. I'm guessing you need at least some bars?
There is quite a list of parts involved (but yes...bars is in the list of parts needed). I don't have the entire list but I think @beno or @cruiseroutfit do.
... and it's not reversible....
... and it requires body work....
... and all of the parts cost almost as much as a used 70 series....
... and it requires body work....
... and all of the parts cost almost as much as a used 70 series....
Yikes. I was more just curious about cost and parts required than anything
I, too ....would love to see a thread where someone does this and documents it. I could have swore I saw a thread long ago where @crushers did this but I don't know the guy and he doesn't seem to post anymore.
you might be thinking of when Crushers did a hard top install on a 70 soft top?
