I feel the same way about mine... looking forward to the day I have the funds to replace it.
Nice looking new one and must be great to have a fab shop nearby.
What did you do on your 70 series today?
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Nice looking new one and must be great to have a fab shop nearby.
Well, it was a healthy 4 hour drive and a night in a roach motel, but all good. Always enjoy a little road trip. Sorry to hear your bumper is giving you the business. There are actually a couple of youtube vids detailing the shortcomings of those bumpers.
I'm bussy digging into my cooling system to replace the thermostat housing.
Some questions to the audience....
Some questions to the audience....
- I had a 88°C Thermostat in it. Worked just fine most the time. Only under heavy offroad load and with the aftermarked AC on in summer, it tended to overheat (never an issue with AC off). Would I benefit by using a 82°C Thermostat?
- The system has quite some black grime in it, which concerns me. Engine was last flushed 5 years ago. I wonder whether I might run an unsuitable coolant. I used a G12+ in water (40/ 60 =-15°C). (monoethylene glycol and organic additive technology. Contains no nitrites, amines, phosphates, borates, silicates and no other mineral additives). I got that recommended at the parts dealer. Unfortunately the common statements like ' Toyota red' don't mean a lot here in Europe. Can anyone tell which coolant I should go for?
Felde
I was reading about red coolant since it requires less frequent attention.
Apparently the red should not be mixed with the old green kind: maybe the red organic acids don't like the old inorganic in green.
Nowhere did I read that the red was bad for old engines/materials.
Since I had green coolant alredy on hand, I used that.
It sounds like you did the right thing in flushing before going with red.
Maybe flush again and replace red?
I was reading about red coolant since it requires less frequent attention.
Apparently the red should not be mixed with the old green kind: maybe the red organic acids don't like the old inorganic in green.
Nowhere did I read that the red was bad for old engines/materials.
Since I had green coolant alredy on hand, I used that.
It sounds like you did the right thing in flushing before going with red.
Maybe flush again and replace red?
Last edited:
I did not know there was a term for it, but I have always been impressed with Toyota and their implementation of it.
Ralf,
The lower temp thermostat should impact cold weather operation more than summer operation with the AC. So I am viewing the radiator as the driver in what you are experiencing. How long ago was the radiator serviced? Based on your description, my concern is that there is build up (scale, blockage, ...) that is reducing heat transfer. If you do pull the radiator for service, I always replace the water pump while it more accessible (plus it gives me a task to complete while radiator is getting serviced).
Regarding coolant: As I recall, you have a 3B engine which is cast iron so no need to get fancy. Unless you want to. All of our Cruisers have cast iron blocks so I use traditional green glycol in all them (I can top any of them off from the same coolant jug). You can standardize to what you are comfortable with. However I have a suggestion, I take the step to use distilled water when I mix any coolants that I have used. My thought is why introduce potential material for scale. Using distilled water might not be strictly necessary but it won't hurt or hinder you.
Keep us posted on your progress and results
Are you currently running the aftermarket unit and keeping the rebuilt OEM as a back up?
Did you upgrade the wiring to a larger size to accommodate the 60A? There's some debate regarding this. Some people stating stock wiring is large enough to withstand 60A and others saying no way.
wish they woulda left it the original Baka-Yoke,,, more apropos for these days i think
24 volts, no problem with the wiring with a60 amp alternator. If your truck is 12 volt... probably still no problem, but always a good idea to check how corroded your original wiring is. No harm in upgrading/replacing the charge wire.
They are the Japanese, polite beyond reason and such a different thought process. I've worked and spent so much time with the Japanese on research ships, it's the most enlightening and infuriating aspect; at the end of the day, best mentality to work with though.
But everyone could use more Baka-Yoke in their life. So fitting.
i lived in Japan for 4 yrs, loved it.
Actually the cooling system works good. The overheating issue only occurred once, in the Alps at >2500m ( 8200ft) elevation, on a steep gradient, in summer with AC on and probably an inappropriate grear selected.
The aftermarked AC condenser sits in front of the radiator, brings in considerable amount of heat, but doesn't have an additional fan. And with almost no headwind and low revs ... I deem that a user's fault
.I will stick eith the 88 thermostat.
Did some more research on the coolant. The common European G classification system was originally referring to BASF products (Glysantin brand) but became kind of common nomenclature to characterize the chemistry.
- G12(+) coolant (also named G30 (BASF)) (red or pink in Europe) apparently really is not good for old engines, although it's called 'universal' and even frequently comes up as suitable when searching in part dealer's websites. Btw: G13 (next evolution for all alloy engines) is green in Europe.
- Period correct for the 3B would be an monoethylene, inorganic acid - slilicate coolant. It usually is green in the US, but blue in Europe. European spec code is G11. The downside is: It doesn't last long (max 2 years); the formula is actually outdated.
- More modern alternative (also mixable with G11) is G48 (BASF), a blue-green, ethylene glycol-based coolant using hybrid organic acid technology (HOAT), combining inorganic (silicates) and organic inhibitors. That's what I'm going with now.
Engine flush is mandatory (
the water pump survives) and also flush & dilution with destilled water (G48 comes as a concentrate).Coolant should show up on Thursday...
Thank you, guys. Cheers Ralf
I always use distilled H2O as well.
I do want to change to the safe, long-life coolant.
My winch box has some Mobil oil that is meant to remain unchanged almost forever.
I do want to change to the safe, long-life coolant.
My winch box has some Mobil oil that is meant to remain unchanged almost forever.
Currently running the aftermarket one but plan to swap the OEM back in at some point. Low priority on my winter project list. It's fine in there with the stock wiring. I'd just rather run Toyota parts whenever possible.
The aftermarket alt does require a different bracket. If you go that route be sure to order the bracket. Search for the part number... It's been widely discussed here.
B
Very common term at my job among many other Japanese terms.
After deciding to keep the troopy, I started getting stuck into some projects I've been meaning to do. Removed the AC system to make some space and gain access to other maintenance items. Next project is to drop the oil pan and dismantle the birfs for a rebuild.
There is something almost therapeutic about a 70 Series and a dirt road. 
Therapeutic in the sense that you’ll probably need a Registered Massage Therapist appointment afterwards…There is something almost therapeutic about a 70 Series and a dirt road.
Last edited:
