Builds Owyhee J.A. BJ75 Troopy Journal (2 Viewers)

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Boise, Id
Thought it was time to start chronicling my modifications to my new-to-me BJ75 Troopy.

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Here's the ad posted of it for sale earlier this year:

For Sale: - 1990 BJ75 Toyota Land Cruiser

I negotiated with the sellers and flew down to Alabama and drove it back to Idaho. Did the drive in 2-days, plus a few hours, slept in the back at rest-stops.

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I thought I'd be happy with a clean stock, un-molested troopy, but the itch to start modifying has hit.

I was cruising through Mississippi, Arkansas, Missouri & Nebraska thinking, "This little 3BII moves along just fine, I don't need to turbo it..."

I hit Wyoming, hellacious head winds and elevation and that thought went out the window. The 3BII seems to like to 'roll coal' if you try to push it and it doesn't have the poop to go any faster. I found myself watching the rear view for the smog cloud way too often. If I saw the cloud, I'd back off on the throttle and it stops smoking.

I started looking at getting another Jefferson State Machining Turbo kit and then a 14BT came up for sale on the local Craigslist.

So now I'm the proud new owner of an abandoned project, a turd-brown BJ60.

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Engine swap started and never finished. There's a 3B head and accessories in the back. They got as far as fabricating some engine mounts, setting the engine and mating the 14BT to the H55.

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The P.O. made some unknown modifications to the clutch. He thought he had a 'custom' clutch made for it. I am hoping to pull the engine and stick it in the BJ75 without pulling the 75's trans.

Spent today tracing lines, labeling hoses, making a shopping list of parts I need to source. At a minimum, I'm hoping to be able to buy a 13BT thermostat housing. That will have the coolant fittings for the turbo and put the coolant return on the correct side for the BJ75's radiator.
 
Anyone have a vacuum schematic for one of these? There are a few vacuum lines that the engine supplier cut (along with every other hose and wire on the thing) that I don't know where they go or what they're for.

I also managed to break a vacuum nipple off of what I think is some kind of control valve on the power steering pump. The nipple was bent over and the tubing was pinched, I tried very gingerly to straighten it and it cracked...

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Out came the JB Weld...hope it seals.

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Hello Owyhee,

I'm with Oz cruiser on this one, please keep posting. If you ever drive mine, you might think it's a rocket with the turbo'd 1HZ! As well, thank you for your Mud name - i thought mine was silly.
 
Thanks, guys, I haven't scrounged up an engine stand yet or else I'd have pulled the 14BT out of the BJ60 already.

Here's what I think I'll need to order: Thermostat housing for 13BT.

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Next:
14BT lower radiator hose, radiator side and some generic 10 mm I.D. heater hose for the turbo coolant lines.


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Last:

I think I'll need to get a hose supply shop to make/modify a high pressure side hose adapter for the power steering. Also I'm missing half the bracket that holds the power steering reservoir.

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That takes care of the coolant and power steering, I think the vacuum (booster) will line up with what I've got.

I'm still not sure of the vacuum control lines...anyone have a 14BT vacuum diagram or FSM for a Dyna or Toyoace truck?
 
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So, not too big of a surprise, but the 13BT T-stat housing is no longer available. Thought it was too good to be true. Trying to find a new 3BII housing like the one in mine and I'll just have to tap into some other coolant passage for the turbo cooling.

Got the 14BT out of the BJ60 last night.

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View attachment 1291186

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Found out what the 'special' clutch work was that the P.O.'s shop did. Looks like they did a bit of grinding on the internal ribs of the bell housing, and also removed some material from the clutch cover. It is a new ASCO clutch and disc; flywheel was turned and there's a new pilot bearing installed.

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From what I understand, the interference is just a cast iron bell housing issue and on my later, BJ75 alloy bell housing, there should be no grinding-to-fit. That has yet to be confirmed though.

I'll be pulling the oil pan off the 14BT next and lopping off the diff side wing.
 
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I pulled the oil pan, thought there was a stout fiber gasket and RTV sealing in on...turns out the stout fiber gasket is some kind of baffle plate.
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I will have to pull it off to re-seal, which means I'll have to pull the oil pick-up and oil pipe...the snowball is growing.
 
Took the pan up to Tasche's (ridefastflyfar) and cut the wing off, then Tasche meticulously tigged a patch plate over the hole.

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Water test, passed.

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Just need to hit it with some paint and get the thing buttoned back up.
 
Finally got the gaskets for the oil lines today. 15149-58010 (x2) and 90430-20018 (x2)

Got the baffle plate and oil pan back on and sealed up, used Blue Permatex.

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Note the low oil level float, may try to hook that up to a dummy light on the dash.

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Installed.

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And torqued. I actually went and bought an inch-lb torque wrench finally.
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Still waiting on the 13BT t-stat housing, I hope I'll get it from the Post Office tomorrow.

Then will come the hard part...taking my perfectly good, clean running, bone-stock, 3B-II out.
 
Nice work mate keep the pics coming
 
Dan

Congrats on the new LC and passing Ada county smog :) Do you know what year vehicle the 14BT is out of?

Ada county emissions say that in order to swap an engine into a vehicle it has to be the same year engine or newer of the vehicle being transplanted into.

I almost found this out the hard way with a swap I was going to do.

Look forward to your progress and hope it all works out.
 
Thanks,

I am not sure what year it came out of, but I'm assuming it's newer than mine. Also, I doubt anyone around here would know the difference between a 3BII and a 14BT and realize it has had an engine swap. The testing station didn't even pop the hood either.
 
I got the new t-stat housing, might order a second one as the one on the 3BII is pretty corroded on the inside.

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Checked the t-stat operation and replaced the t-stat o-ring as well.
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Outlet is now pointing in the right direction for my radiator.
 
Ordered a 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 3/8" radiator hose tee from these guys. I'll tee into the upper radiator hose with it for the turbo cooling port that was on the top of the stock t-stat housing. The bottom turbo cooling hose hose will return to the block on the bottom of the thermostat housing, where the rear heater port plug is/was.

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Pulled the plug out of the USDS rear of the block and replaced with a fitting for where the BJ75's heater hose taps off.

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Just moved this fitting from the rear heater port off the 14B-T (same spot on the 14B-T's lower housing as the 3B's rear heater port in the first photo) as it's a bigger fitting, takes a 5/8" heater hose as opposed to the harder-to-find 9/16 fitting for the rear heater supply line.

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