What did you do on your 70 series today? (9 Viewers)

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Whose add-a-leafs? I have the ARB/OME heavy kit and that still isn't enough. I'm going to have to take a leaf out of the front or find something a bit stiffer/heavier duty for the rear.

She's sagging a bit in the back when fully loaded, and that is before I build a drawer system and put the fridge in the back:

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Air bags?
 
I also installed my mag lite on the driver side seat slider. Look closely to see the extension bracket built by @Cruisin' so that my 6'2" tall self could actually drive the truck!

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Does the bracket raise the seat or allow it to slide further back or both? You think that is something they could reproduce without having the seat there? It appears to be welded to the OEM seat bracket, yes?
 
Painted bumper, Fixed starter, Fixed Kenwood stereo, Fixed clock, Fixed broken dash, Fixed interior light and was trying to fix fuel tank sender when I had a brilliant idea maybe its empty :hmm: 10 gallons of diesel later and the sender now working. I also like the PO who drilled the ash tray for the UHF. Thank you brother :)

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@fireball rears are standens meant for a 60 series. Fronts are pro comp 13124, for tacoma pick up. Both are the long style, had to cut the pro comps as they were too long. Probably 35/40mm lift front and rear, and ride is firmer more stable.
 
Tore out the interior getting ready for some sound deadening and wiring work.

I just bumped another thread asking for any advice on removing the rear heater. I don't think I'll be needing it.

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I removed the old, corroded oil pressure sender. Its negative spade terminal had snapped off and the positive is rotten with corrosion. Plumbed in a stainless BSPT tee and a brass NPT adapter in preparation for a mechanical oil gauge. I'll also run the original gauge with a new sender.
A 3/8" socket crow's foot deepened with a cut-off wheel and a reduced-diameter 3" extension were all I needed to remover the old sender. I did this from below, lying on a creeper. I think I was lucky.
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Interior clean up, sound deaden to the rear cargo area and DS rear quarter and DS rear door:

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Fireball, what dampening product are you using? I've been looking at spray on stuff but it's pricey.
 
What you see there is NVX brand, from Sonicelectronix that I got a super deal on awhile back.

When I did the super crazy time consuming sound proofing on the 100 series, I used everything from SDS. www.sounddeadenershowdown.com Lots of good info on the site about how to actually do an install that works and not waste money on too much product. It took forever but the results were pretty awesome. The drawback is that a fully deadened 100-series makes everything else sound SUPER NOISY!!!
 
A lot of total mass?
 
I probably added 80 or 90 pounds to the hundy. Doubt I will add half that much to the 74.

I can't decide if I want to cut up the front door panels and install speakers in there, but that is the biggest improvement in my opinion. Makes the speakers sound way better and gives the door closing a very satisfying solid feel.

PS. I am also planning to add some auxiliary gauges so appreciate your write up on the work you're doing.
 
I fitted a new interior light and replaced all the brake rubber hoses then bled the brake system with new dot 4. I'm still waiting on the 2 x clutch rubber hoses so they we be replaced next weekend.
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