What did you do on your 70 series today? (20 Viewers)

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Got started with the wiring project. When I bought the truck I had it prepped for a cross country trip knowing I'd redo all the wiring at some point in time. That point has come and it's a daunting task!

I have one 24 to 12v converter and just ordered a second since I'd like to have both switched and constant 12v power. There isn't a way to accomplish this with a single converter that I overlooked is there?

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80 series steel rims 16x8 for my new meats for the 70.

These require 1.5" spacers to run.

Wanted a wider stance for the Rubithon coming up soon.

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This is the setup that @cruiserdan also runs on his 74.

These are the rims I ran on my 80 series back in the day:

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Best looking OEM Toyota wheel ever Period !

Can you not get a container of those at discounted prices for cheap mofos like me ;-)
 
I have one 24 to 12v converter and just ordered a second since I'd like to have both switched and constant 12v power. There isn't a way to accomplish this with a single converter that I overlooked is there?
I am also looking for 12V switched and 12V constant system... mostly for stereo presets/memory. I wonder if a battery equalizer will serve this purpose. Just tap the 12V constant for memory off one of the batteries. The equalizer will charge/equalize the (2) individual batteries accordingly? Bad idea?

Another idea would be to just add a small 12V battery and run constant 12V (for memory) off that.

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http://www.vanner.com/manuals/71-SERIES-EQUALIZER-MILITARY.pdf
 
A center tap is not optimal. I have a single 60 amp converter that when powered up supplies constant power and switched power that is activated by a 24 volt relay that closes when the ignition is switched on. I have a dash mounted switch to power up the converter. I operate the vehicle irregularly and I only power up the converter when I'm actually using the vehicle. It rarely sits for more than a couple days with the converter powered up.
It only takes a minute or so to re-set the radio and I prefer that to draining some 300 bucks worth of batteries.
 
Upon further reading, Vanner literature says it'll give an imbalance alarm if the two batteries are out of balance by more than 6%. I think a small, rechargeable 12V battery might be the way to go for me.
 
Maybe one for garden tractor or similar?

One consideration to remember is that many new radios use the memory lead as the major power feed when the radio is turned on.
 
Well, its been along road, but I finally got Solaris (my yellow BJ74) back on the road.

I've been trying to resolve why it was pushing water out of the overflow. Pulled the engine and gearbox, sent the head off to the shop and found it had cracked between the inlet and exhaust port on three cylinders. Finding another head was a battle, found one in another state and shipped it up, only for it to also fail the crack test... Eventually bought a complete 13B naturally aspirated motor and gearbox out of a daihatsu truck and stole the head off it.

Had the head rebuilt and then installed it all back onto the engine. I was also taking the opportunity to replace the clutch with a new unit from extreme clutch, front and rear main seals, both idler pulleys and upgrade the turbocharger to a mamba TD05H-16G 7cm. I also swapped out the rear housing from my transfer case with a spare one because a previous owner had stripped the oil fill bung, drilled it out larger and then stripped it again. It also gave me an opportunity to inspect my Marks 3:0 transfer case gears, which looked in perfect condition.

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Got it all back in the truck, last two steps were to fill the cooling system and reinstall the bonnet... Except about 9 litres in, water started pouring from the back of the exhaust side of the head... turns out the head shop had missed the fact that there are four little 12mm welch plugs hidden under the exhaust manifold and two of them had rusted through (looks likely that they died when the head was sandblasted during the rebuild).

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So then I had to strip half the external parts back off the engine and replace the welch plugs, which took another day and a half of swearing and driving around town trying to find somewhere with 12mm welch plugs open on a Sunday. Then rebuild it all again and we were away.
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Final addition was some digital boost and EGT gauges, this is only a temporary mounting solution for now. Unfortunately the EGT gauge needed a longer lead so I'm waiting on a new longer thermocouple to arrive in the next week or two.
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Fingers crossed that this is the last time in the shed for a while, time to go hit the tracks!
 
ive been very busy today...cleaned rockers and adjusted,clutch lines and slave fitted, vacuum parts installed, power steering fitted, alternator,water pump ,fan and thermostat all in, ran out of time...have to work the next 7 days but im very happy with todays efforts:)

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Don't really know, won't be able to lean on it until the longer EGT probe arrives and is fitted. I'm not really chasing anything massive, I think I'd be pretty happy with a 20% increase in power over stock. Mostly I'd be happy to fatten up the mid-range power, so I'll be playing with the guide bushing and seeing if I can find a balance between earlier power and not blowing too much smoke.
 
One consideration to remember is that many new radios use the memory lead as the major power feed when the radio is turned on.
Yes. Check the diameters of the red and yellow power leads.

I think I'll just do something like this marine stereo...

Jensen MS2013BTR
-Zero current memory draw (built in memory battery?)

I bought a 24V stereo from Australia. Made by Axis(?). It has "ultra memory" which does not forget even when power is disconnected.
I like the stereo but the USB action seems like it is from 2003.
 
I have one 24 to 12v converter and just ordered a second since I'd like to have both switched and constant 12v power. There isn't a way to accomplish this with a single converter that I overlooked is there?

If I understand you correctly, all you need is a relay (should be 24v to match the switching side) on the output of the converter triggered by the ACC signal. Then connect those accessories which you want to be switched to the relay, while those which you want permanently powered to be attached directly to the 24-12v converter.
 
Need to replace my 12v pioneer Supertuner. But I want to add 3 12v ports. Can I do all that on one converter? Are there different amp ones. Why not run dedicated(direct) wires and use a switch rather than the acc circuit?
 
Scavenged two good front doors which I hope to Frankenstein into the project bj. Strip out glass actuator etc and fit into the 24v system. If it's a no go then will flog doors I guess. Checked into tuner Bluetooth n USB input etc + need to add 3 12v ports plus sat radio. Found an installer I can work with I think. Master 12volt says he's good with install and had several options. The big box store tried to tell me they can order the harness to plug in to factory loom. Lol it hasn't been factory since the eighties.
 

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