Thanks bro. I’m going to try this soon. I’ve searched for a replacement lever but haven’t been able to find one. Looks like I’ll be doing some disassembling/reassembling.
What did you break on your 100 this week?
- Thread starter Hendrik
- Start date
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OMG!both front tpms sensors died this weeki'm going to deal with blinking lights in the instrument panel for a while....
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
If you can’t get it freed up after disassembling and soaking in oil or similar, contact @LC Parts Yard to see if he has a used but good replacement.
- Thread starter
- #84
So....... I left the passenger Emu Wing open when reversing into our carport, didn't see it still open in the mirror, and even moving as slow as I did in reverse, the aluminium panel buckled like it was nothing against the brick pillar. These things aren't cheap and it was quite a bend so it made my day when I was able to mostly get it back into original shape with just a few clamps and timbers on the work bench. It's not 100% but so far no-one has noticed, at least not until I mention it anyways. 2nd last pic is with latches closed, hiding most of the remaining bend, last pic is with latches open. It does still seal and haven't seen any dust or water make its way inside (not yet anyway!)
The hinges held up surprisingly well against the lateral shunt, I couldn't see anything wrong with them, so I guess that I was either a bit lucky or they are bloody strong, in any case I'm happy witht the result considering at first it was looking like a $700 f@k up.
The hinges held up surprisingly well against the lateral shunt, I couldn't see anything wrong with them, so I guess that I was either a bit lucky or they are bloody strong, in any case I'm happy witht the result considering at first it was looking like a $700 f@k up.
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Side wall tear on rt rear tire on swansea-cerro gordo trail (Ca.). tried to plug, no dice. Out comes the spare.
'course it was a set of P rated tires (street). Waiting until after upcoming surgery to upgrade to some AT tires (currently focused on Cooper).
'course it was a set of P rated tires (street). Waiting until after upcoming surgery to upgrade to some AT tires (currently focused on Cooper).
High clearance sway bar? Not exactly a break but it’s gonna take some work to fix. Jack slipped on the diff and took the sway bar with it. This was before setting Jack stands and I wasn’t under the car, I’m only a little dumb in this scenario.
The same Jack that once caused the destruction was the force used to pull the bar back straight. Hooked a heavy duty ratchet strap around the bar, connected at the base of the Jack, and lifted from the pumpkin. Good enough.
- Thread starter
- #88
Jack + ratchet strap = handy solution to many problems!
I’m fairly described as a minimalist but after bending my roof badly enough to stop the sunroof from working and showing in the headliner I think I need a roof rack. Lol. Water is now pooling there. Hopefully I can pull the headliner down and pop out with a 2 x 4.
After Installing new Ironman Foam Cell Pro suspension I couldn't work out why my front sagged so much.
Well...
I guess this is another lesson not to buy cheap parts. I was ordering some Ball Joints & bushings from Febest (good experience with those) and decided to also order two new torsion bar adjusters. I anticipated that these would've rusted to the torsion bars but they came out easy. The arms were really cheap, €10.91 / less than 15$ per piece.
While installing the new suspension I said to my mate "should I put in the new cheap shiny stuff or keep the old quality Toyota parts". Well, shiny it was... for a few hours. Put the OEM arms back in and they seem to hold up fine.
Edit: put a stripe through "Good experience with those", they failed quickly, no more that a 9 months I think. Sankei-555's are going in now. Buy quality parts.
Well...
I guess this is another lesson not to buy cheap parts. I was ordering some Ball Joints & bushings from Febest (
While installing the new suspension I said to my mate "should I put in the new cheap shiny stuff or keep the old quality Toyota parts". Well, shiny it was... for a few hours. Put the OEM arms back in and they seem to hold up fine.
Edit: put a stripe through "Good experience with those", they failed quickly, no more that a 9 months I think. Sankei-555's are going in now. Buy quality parts.
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Wow, that is impressively bad quality...At least they failed instantly instead of out in the bush.
After replacing most parts in my front suspension like the Torsion bar adjuster above I broke some more things to keep it fun.
Yesterday I was bouncing around at the beach for a few minutes and found out I have bought very low quality Lower Control Arms.
At the time I did not have everything to rebuild my OEM ones, so I installed these cheap ones.
After getting the front wheels off the ground a few times at speed the front sagged, a lot, got out of the car and saw this:
Lowered the left side torsion bar to just above the bumpstop and drove 90 minutes home.
A few days ago I received the new OEM bushings for my OEM LCA's. So, yesterday evening I sandblasted the arms, welded in a reinforcement plate, pressed in new bushings, gave them a coat of paint and a few hours later I was driving at normal ride height again.
Reinforcement plate:
And welded to the arm:
The Aftermarket arms looked good and were made of the same thickness metal as the OEM ones. The metal just wasn't as hard/high tensile strength as the OEM ones. After installation of the cheap LCA's I checked the bolts for the correct torque, did that again after 1500Km / 930 miles and it was all good. I will replace the other side soon.
My advice, after making the same stupid mistake over and over again... Don't buy cheap parts.
Yesterday I was bouncing around at the beach for a few minutes and found out I have bought very low quality Lower Control Arms.
At the time I did not have everything to rebuild my OEM ones, so I installed these cheap ones.
After getting the front wheels off the ground a few times at speed the front sagged, a lot, got out of the car and saw this:
Lowered the left side torsion bar to just above the bumpstop and drove 90 minutes home.
A few days ago I received the new OEM bushings for my OEM LCA's. So, yesterday evening I sandblasted the arms, welded in a reinforcement plate, pressed in new bushings, gave them a coat of paint and a few hours later I was driving at normal ride height again.
Reinforcement plate:
And welded to the arm:
The Aftermarket arms looked good and were made of the same thickness metal as the OEM ones. The metal just wasn't as hard/high tensile strength as the OEM ones. After installation of the cheap LCA's I checked the bolts for the correct torque, did that again after 1500Km / 930 miles and it was all good. I will replace the other side soon.
My advice, after making the same stupid mistake over and over again... Don't buy cheap parts.
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Got a little too aggressive/careless on the trail a couple of weeks ago and did this. Anything over 30MPH and it felt like I was driving a jackhammer on wheels. Got it repaired with thicker walled tubing at a local driveline shop and now she's smooth as butter. The angle of this pic doesn't really show just how bad it was.
Last night I put the key in the ignition and broke what I found out today to be the lock cylinder bracket. Happy New Years!
I worry about that happening when I am away from home.
I've been fighting why my Long Term Fuel Trims have been so high - LTFT1 and LTFT2.
They are supposed to be close to zero.
I use the Torque Pro app on my Android phone.
I replaced the MAF sensor and it seemed to be the solution but a few days later they rose back up.
Finally I think the reason is the Gas Cap which I typically just tighten to the first click.
I read somewhere that the Gas Cap could be the cause of "false air" ... so now I tighten it till it clicks and then some more.
Here are my Fuel Trims while driving:
... and at idle:
They are supposed to be close to zero.
I use the Torque Pro app on my Android phone.
I replaced the MAF sensor and it seemed to be the solution but a few days later they rose back up.
Finally I think the reason is the Gas Cap which I typically just tighten to the first click.
I read somewhere that the Gas Cap could be the cause of "false air" ... so now I tighten it till it clicks and then some more.
Here are my Fuel Trims while driving:
... and at idle:
Seems like I'm posting too regularly here, but this is what happened:
My brake disc broke while driving (coming to a stop) whacked the piston out of the caliper, destroyed (bend and broke) the caliper, backplate, brake shoes, hardware and made some pretty bad scars inside the rim.
These are the pieces that came out:
And the remaining part of the disc brake:
Underside backplate:
Top of backplate:
The brake disc is not too thin, pads were OK. I really don't know how this could've happened, possibly a small crack that got bigger over time.
My brake disc broke while driving (coming to a stop) whacked the piston out of the caliper, destroyed (bend and broke) the caliper, backplate, brake shoes, hardware and made some pretty bad scars inside the rim.
These are the pieces that came out:
And the remaining part of the disc brake:
Underside backplate:
Top of backplate:
The brake disc is not too thin, pads were OK. I really don't know how this could've happened, possibly a small crack that got bigger over time.
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How the heck?
I've been fighting mine for a while now too... also chasing down somewhat high idle when in park. Makes me wonder if it could be tied to the tank pressure..
A few weeks ago, I posted how I have been having a REALLY bad experience with the Smittybily 2781 air compressor. I wanted to update the group that I called Smittybilt CS, explained the issues I have been having, and even though the warranty was expired by 1 month... they honored it and sent me a brand new replacement.
With that being said, I begun the process of installing a pressure sensor on it. Just waiting on the last piece in the mail to complete it. Then will begin the process of replacing the engine bay unit.
With that being said, I begun the process of installing a pressure sensor on it. Just waiting on the last piece in the mail to complete it. Then will begin the process of replacing the engine bay unit.
