This was a while back while I was trying to remove the door sidings to access the door speaker. Ebay to the rescue $$$
What did you break on your 100 this week?
- Thread starter Hendrik
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This was a while back while I was trying to remove the door sidings to access the door speaker. Ebay to the rescue $$$
The first thing I ever did to my Land Cruiser when I got it was tighten up the rearview mirror. 2.5 years later it was a little loose again so I decided to tighten it. Screw was a little stripped and my little extra effort resulted in a cracked windshield. I feel like a moron.
Definitely posting here too often, but I had another failure I didn't expect.
Last night I was driving home from wrenching on another Land Cruiser 100. On my way back I was driving, let's say 125+km/h/75+mph and then my upper balljoint snapped on the highway.
Bit of careful steering and sliding later I was on the Shoulder and saw this:
Got a flatbed tow home and saw what happened, balljoint does not have any play but snapped where the ball meets the pin:
And another picture:
I've got a 2'' Ironman Foamcell Pro lift, the ball joints do not bind but I do really use the HDJ100 off road.
Upper control arms and upper balljoints were cheap units
Put some old OEM ones on for now and will probably order a new set of OEM UCA's of aftermarked caster corrected ones.
Last night I was driving home from wrenching on another Land Cruiser 100. On my way back I was driving, let's say 125+km/h/75+mph and then my upper balljoint snapped on the highway.
Bit of careful steering and sliding later I was on the Shoulder and saw this:
Got a flatbed tow home and saw what happened, balljoint does not have any play but snapped where the ball meets the pin:
And another picture:
I've got a 2'' Ironman Foamcell Pro lift, the ball joints do not bind but I do really use the HDJ100 off road.
Upper control arms and upper balljoints were cheap units
Put some old OEM ones on for now and will probably order a new set of OEM UCA's of aftermarked caster corrected ones.
Yikes, that could have been really bad.
Are these "cheap units" made in China jobs? To snap at the ball like that looks like a fatigue failure from the ball not being able to move, or bad casting, or both? I've seen them separate when the ball wears out the nylon liner but not where they snap off like that.
Could've been real bad, just managed to steer away from barriers by giving it some extra.
This is a Febest unit. I looked up the part number: 0124-334RH
The units were installed late september 2021, so only about 15 months old.
I've also seen UCA's wear out and fail, but never like this.
Started to smell burning oil from where its dripping on the header from the valve cover gasket. Also, a bit bigger of a situation, my radio/audio has stopped working. Seems like I have the solder issue with pin 60 that is going out. There are times now when I have no control over any of the temperature settings. I keep getting the message the external system is not connected.
Jack90210
SILVER Star
I'm getting a weird symptom on my '07 LX: when I hit the door lock button on the fob, the doors lock but the alarm doesn't set, and then in a few seconds I hear the doors unlock again. Unlocking and opening/closing a door seems to cure it in the moment, and then it'll happen a few hours later. I'm scratching my head on this one. Do I have a sticky door lock, a bad connection in one of my doors, an alarm problem, or ... ?
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I have a sticky door lock on my pass rear door. I've noticed that in colder weather that lock sometimes will not completely move to the locked position. This causes the doors to unlock a couple seconds later. I have to manually push it to the locked position and then hit lock on my key fob for all my doors to stay locked. Luckily it's a rear door which doesn't get used unless I'm hauling my dogs. I would open all your doors & make sure they're all unlocked, hit the lock button on your key fob, and check to see if any of those locks did not fully move to the locked position.
Likely it’s a weak door lock actuator (motor). When one (or more) doors don’t lock, you won’t get the “chirp”.
TreatSmash
SILVER Star
BullElk
SILVER Star
LCA bushings. Sounds like a flock of irate laying hens driving thru the woods.
Here's probably my worst one. Happened last spring. Broken lower alternator bolt...drilling this one out was worse than the time I broke the starter neck off in the block... 
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Perhaps you should use 2 fewer ugga duggas in the future?Here's probably my worst one. Happened last spring. Broken lower alternator bolt...drilling this one out was worse than the time I broke the starter neck off in the block...
View attachment 3238261
You may be on to something. My wife says every time I fix something I break something in the process.
I confess I had to look it up:
"An Ugga Dugga is a unit of measurement consisting of time and torque, often found in automotive workshops. Ugga duggas can be counted infinitely, but it is commonly understood that 7 Ugga duggas is the maximum torque, while 3 Ugga duggas is sufficient to hold most projects."
I think a previous mechanic buggered it because it broke on removal. After I drilled it out I replaced it with a longer bolt and nut.
In the US, a chirp is a “luxury feature” only available on LX 100 series. A little retrofitting is required to put a chirp on a LC 100 series.
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TreatSmash
SILVER Star
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
And plebeian (4th gen) 4Runners.Only available on Luxury Crossovers
Here's probably my worst one. Happened last spring. Broken lower alternator bolt...drilling this one out was worse than the time I broke the starter neck off in the block...
View attachment 3238261
This is one of the most common bolts that break! Last time it broke on me on my 98, I ended up spending almost 4 hours on that POS
I finally ended up cutting it flush and drilling it out and then replaced it with a through bolt with a locking nut on the back - the next owner will never have to deal with that s*** again!
