So far so good. I’m over it and back to normal, my wife got it worse but hopefully is thru the worst of it. Our 2 girls (7 & 3) have no symptoms, tested negative once and awaiting results from Friday’s test.......
What are you working on? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter crawlin40
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
So far so good. I’m over it and back to normal, my wife got it worse but hopefully is thru the worst of it. Our 2 girls (7 & 3) have no symptoms, tested negative once and awaiting results from Friday’s test.......
I had 27 i removed when we moved in. My winch got crissined doing that. They were much older and I still had to dig.
Is the excavator yours?
I put mine in about 25 years ago as a screen along the property line. With the hot/dry summers, a few of them haven't been doing so well.
Yep, the mini-ex is mine.
I have to take my work boots off to adequately work the VW pedals...
You might want to change over to spring clamps. There are a number of issues with using the worm-drive clamps - loosening up is only one of them.
I’ve never had much luck with that style on larger diameter hoses - to be honest I haven’t given them much of a chance. Given how tight I have to make the worm drive clamps I just can’t see how they’d provide sufficient clamping pressure.
I’m also dealing with some piping issues - is a Toyota radiator connected to a Chevy thermostat housing, metric Toyota heater hard lines transitioning to homemade copper heater lines in the cab, etc. seems like something is always either too loose or too tight. That’s probably as much my problem as any. However, it’s definitely not the only problem - the radiator hoses are designed for the Chevy fittings and those are the ones that leak.
I eagerly await the jokes about chevys leaking.
Looks like fj60 seat fits the holes on the 1980 fj40 perfectly
Getting close to the finish line on a new battery tray. If my battery manages to escape this, I’ll be totally at a loss.
The sliders on the tray clamp the base of the battery. The fence is there to act as handles (the top of the tray lifts off the frame support) so the entire battery and tray can be removed as a unit. Also - if the clamps fail, the battery will need to jump through my hood to get to the exhaust manifold again.
The top bracket has adjustable load spreaders to clamp just about any width battery. The hold down bar is 3/16 steel - cut to 3/4” wide to make sure it can get through the gap on most batteries with a raised fill cap.
The tray is large enough to accommodate any battery under 13”L x 7.25”W x 9.5” high so next time I find myself shopping for a replacement in a Winchester, VA Walmart, I should be able to accommodate damn near anything off the shelf.
The sliders on the tray clamp the base of the battery. The fence is there to act as handles (the top of the tray lifts off the frame support) so the entire battery and tray can be removed as a unit. Also - if the clamps fail, the battery will need to jump through my hood to get to the exhaust manifold again.
The top bracket has adjustable load spreaders to clamp just about any width battery. The hold down bar is 3/16 steel - cut to 3/4” wide to make sure it can get through the gap on most batteries with a raised fill cap.
The tray is large enough to accommodate any battery under 13”L x 7.25”W x 9.5” high so next time I find myself shopping for a replacement in a Winchester, VA Walmart, I should be able to accommodate damn near anything off the shelf.
brian
SILVER Star
put jams nut on the all thread down at the coupling nut. there is nothing to keep either your thumb screw or the all thread from backing out.
This was a mock up. It’s also just tacked together too so I have a ways to go yet - mostly just test fitting to make sure all the obscure angles and clearances worked.
The allthread will most likely get welded into the coupling nut, but at a minimum it will get a jam nut, or I’ll feed the althread through a bit further and put a nylock on the bottom. Haven’t decided - ultimately it just depends on how “serviceable” I want the battery tray to be in the future.
The knurled knobs at the top will probably get lock washers underneath. I thought about drilling a hole in the shaft of the knob to mount a set screw but that would definitely tear up the allthread.
Rick, might want to give the heat shrink hose clamps a try. Gate's make them. I used the on the 80 to replace the cotter key clamps Toyota used on the hard pipe connections, haven't seen a drop.
Finally replacing my rear axle. Andy @jamarquardt22 armored a set of housings for me well over a year ago.
It's a work of art!
Old axle out....
New housing in!
It's a work of art!
Old axle out....
New housing in!
Thats cheating. A lift and fork lift!
As someone who just installed new springs and basically benched the axles into position, I am 100% in agreement with the assessment. Especially since I have to do it again since the truck is leaning like 2" to passenger and I blew a spring bushing at Fall Crawl.
Work smart, not hard...
Working smart is not in my MO.
80 is out for the season due to (my procrastinstion mostly) needing a injection pump rebuild.
The IP started leaking after a recent upgrade so here we are!
Currently in process of removing the T-belt and pump.
Cleaned the radiator and condensor with AC vent cleaner. Now you can actually see through the thing!!!
Plan is to replace, T-Belt, Thermostat, reseal pump, injectors as well.
Taking my time with this as I dont want to rush.
The IP started leaking after a recent upgrade so here we are!
Currently in process of removing the T-belt and pump.
Cleaned the radiator and condensor with AC vent cleaner. Now you can actually see through the thing!!!
Plan is to replace, T-Belt, Thermostat, reseal pump, injectors as well.
Taking my time with this as I dont want to rush.
As with all of them, they do have to be properly sized for the hose you're using. Also a matter of getting quality clamps - either spring clamps OR worm drive. The cheap worm drive clamps tend to just strip out the holes in the band or run the worm sideways off the band.
I haven’t seen any evidence of the worm drive clamps “walking” or stripping out - I remember doing some research on “good” worm drive clamps before buying them last time to try and fix this. Of course I can’t remember what manufacturer I went with - they seem to be running straight enough but it definitely seems like they’re backing themselves off.
People may remember my "hardware store" from previous posts. I got tired of running out to the store every weekend for a few of these and a few of those to finish a project, so when the opportunity presented itself at a local auction I placed my bids...
I got them cheaper than I expected. I think everyone else just thought of all the time to disassemble the bins, load them up, haul them home (or wherever), unload them, and set them all up again.
Not all the bins were fully stocked and there were things that I'd never be likely to use, so over the years I've restocked and taken some stuff to the recycler and repurposed the bins for items that I'm more likely to use.
The downside is that the shop at work does not see such advantages. The boss is always focusing on "static" inventory and how often something is needed. So I regularly face situations similar to this past week...
I needed two fasteners. Fortunately, we actually had a few fasteners with the correct thread. Unfortunately, they were the wrong length - so they had to be cut down and then rethreaded to clean up the cut end. Then the head had to be turned down on the lathe to fit in the hole they had to go into.
Honestly, it would have taken less time to run home, pick up the two fasteners of the correct size (yes, I had them) and run back to work than the time spent scrounging around, cutting, rethreading, and turning the two I ended up with...
I got them cheaper than I expected. I think everyone else just thought of all the time to disassemble the bins, load them up, haul them home (or wherever), unload them, and set them all up again.
Not all the bins were fully stocked and there were things that I'd never be likely to use, so over the years I've restocked and taken some stuff to the recycler and repurposed the bins for items that I'm more likely to use.
The downside is that the shop at work does not see such advantages. The boss is always focusing on "static" inventory and how often something is needed. So I regularly face situations similar to this past week...
I needed two fasteners. Fortunately, we actually had a few fasteners with the correct thread. Unfortunately, they were the wrong length - so they had to be cut down and then rethreaded to clean up the cut end. Then the head had to be turned down on the lathe to fit in the hole they had to go into.
Honestly, it would have taken less time to run home, pick up the two fasteners of the correct size (yes, I had them) and run back to work than the time spent scrounging around, cutting, rethreading, and turning the two I ended up with...
Where is your stash, I need access... we've done the same so many times at work too. All that "junk" can be invaluable at times.
