brian
SILVER Star
Finished the restoration of the instrument cluster.......
What are you working on? (21 Viewers)
- Thread starter crawlin40
- Start date
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I’ve never had a year where the Yellow Jackets have been so wicked.
Two persistent nests in the overhang of the barn, one of which brought them INTO the barn. I finally eradicated them this week using expanding spray foam. It took about three to four different applications to finally seal them in. They kept burrowing new exits.
Then yesterday, I was in the backyard, and almost stepped on an underground nest.
Entrance hole is about 5”, and there was a steady stream in and out.
Woke up early this morning and Napalmed them!
War is hell!
Two persistent nests in the overhang of the barn, one of which brought them INTO the barn. I finally eradicated them this week using expanding spray foam. It took about three to four different applications to finally seal them in. They kept burrowing new exits.
Then yesterday, I was in the backyard, and almost stepped on an underground nest.
Entrance hole is about 5”, and there was a steady stream in and out.
Woke up early this morning and Napalmed them!
War is hell!
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Crusha you don't take any prisoners, do ya?????
Noooooo!!! you bastid!
Just kidding of course. That 5" hole is scary and one of the nightmares from my childhood. When I was a kid, my mom was cutting the grass and I was following behind her about 10-15 feet on my "big wheel". She mowed over a nest and stirred them up. She didn't get stung, but they were primed and pissed when I got there. They flew up the back of my shirt and I got 40+ stings that day. I can only remember following behind her and the first couple of stings. i think my mind blocked the rest. I keep an eye out for nests for my kids and nuke any I find as well.
Hoping to remove the intake and resolve my miss at idle this weekend while everyone else it seems gets out for fun on the trails. New fuel filter and going to swap in a replacement #6 injector I have from the spare motor. Then a new fuel pump sock and hopefully the baselining is done. Just spoke with my local tire guys that do all the work/personal vehicles and they will mount and balance the 37" beadlocks ... just waiting on the front springs now and it's install time.
Also need to do the rear heater delete and flush the system yet again ... still getting what looks like dirt out of it in the overflow.
Almost forgot the exhaust ... just going to use some baler wire to pull the cats off the slider. Tired of hearing it rattle.
Way behind on firewood for the year, so I need the truck(s) to be functional for a while so I can prep for winter heat the next month or so.
Also need to do the rear heater delete and flush the system yet again ... still getting what looks like dirt out of it in the overflow.
Almost forgot the exhaust ... just going to use some baler wire to pull the cats off the slider. Tired of hearing it rattle.
Way behind on firewood for the year, so I need the truck(s) to be functional for a while so I can prep for winter heat the next month or so.
Just finished troubleshooting my front ARB locker issue - ran a new extended front diff breather hose and it seems to have stopped the constant cycling of the ARB compressor. I'm not sure the front locker ever worked right so hoping it holds up under some stress this weekend. (and by stress I mean running greens with my brother's stock 100 
It's finally time for to figure out why the a/c no longer works. I've read most of the threads in the 80 section and have done (or will be doing) the following.
1. Last night rented the gauges and vacuum from autozone (what a nightmare)- confirmed what I already new there is a leak.
2. Observed that the compressor doesn't engage when the a/c button is pushed - read that as a safety measure it automatically shuts off if there isn't enough refrigerant in the system. Visually it looks ok so hopefully figure out the leak and the compressor is ok.
3. Will be performing the evap clean, expansion valve and a/c drier replacement as part of this process following alia176's FAQ writeup.
So my question for the next step is in regards to diagnosing where the leak(s) are coming from.... my understanding is there are two options; buy the refrigerant with the dye and use a uv light OR put a charge in the system and spray with soapy water.
I don't have access to nitrogen (best option) but I do have a CO2 tank in the truck - is using CO2 ok since I'll be clearing the entire system again anyway to recharge it? If so, what pressure should I run through it? If there is too much that can go wrong with the pressure or introduction of water would you hesitate at all to use the dyed refrigerant?
Thanks in advance - Scott
1. Last night rented the gauges and vacuum from autozone (what a nightmare)- confirmed what I already new there is a leak.
2. Observed that the compressor doesn't engage when the a/c button is pushed - read that as a safety measure it automatically shuts off if there isn't enough refrigerant in the system. Visually it looks ok so hopefully figure out the leak and the compressor is ok.
3. Will be performing the evap clean, expansion valve and a/c drier replacement as part of this process following alia176's FAQ writeup.
So my question for the next step is in regards to diagnosing where the leak(s) are coming from.... my understanding is there are two options; buy the refrigerant with the dye and use a uv light OR put a charge in the system and spray with soapy water.
I don't have access to nitrogen (best option) but I do have a CO2 tank in the truck - is using CO2 ok since I'll be clearing the entire system again anyway to recharge it? If so, what pressure should I run through it? If there is too much that can go wrong with the pressure or introduction of water would you hesitate at all to use the dyed refrigerant?
Thanks in advance - Scott
Being that your a/c used to work, this is what I would do:
Go the dye/UV light route to pinpoint the leak. Fix the leak, pull a vacuum, charge the system, and see if you're happy. If not, replace receiver drier and repeat. Doubtful you'll have to go any further than this.
I wouldn't even worry about anything in your last paragraph.
^this
Excellent - I was hoping that was the preferred method!
fireball
SILVER Star
Crusha - you sure you're the best guy to be dishing out advice on AC repair work?! Aren't you still driving around with no working AC!?
brian
SILVER Star
Just do as he says not as he does...or something like that
Actually, I'll bump heads with Crusha, dci, ect...here and say the CO2 tank is a fine way to charge the system and at least see if the compressor kicks in without waisting freon. While charged with co2, you may find a leak with soapy water but chances are you can already visually detect a leak from the oily stain around whatever joint failed.
Either method will work.
Could just Vacuum, charge and go the rest of this summer.
I would recommend getting a hold of some Toyota #5 green o-rings before you start. They do not usually come in the universal o-ring kits.
So I went with the "waste freon' approach. The compressor turned on which is good and the vents are blowing "cold' -> forgot to pickup a thermometer 
I'm going to take the truck for a quick spin around the block to give the dye a chance to work through the system.
@Pacer I think I cpuld see the leak coming from the a/c dryer lines but there are some other suspect areas that I want to be sure about- good call on the toyota o-rings. Is there a good source?
I'm going to take the truck for a quick spin around the block to give the dye a chance to work through the system.
@Pacer I think I cpuld see the leak coming from the a/c dryer lines but there are some other suspect areas that I want to be sure about- good call on the toyota o-rings. Is there a good source?
Quick update on what I've found. Initial thought about the a/c drier/receiver was wrong. Compressor looks good too. It took me awhile but I think found I the culprit. I initially thought it was where the compressor discharge hose enters the condenser (middle circle in the diagram below)
But after removing the center brace I was able to see the top of the condenser covered in dye as well. A couple pictures below but thoughts on the condenser being shot versus just a bad connection? My guts telling me it's prob the condenser but I'm a bit out of element here.
Picture#2 from the Front showing the compressor discharge hose entering into the condenser.
But after removing the center brace I was able to see the top of the condenser covered in dye as well. A couple pictures below but thoughts on the condenser being shot versus just a bad connection? My guts telling me it's prob the condenser but I'm a bit out of element here.
Picture#2 from the Front showing the compressor discharge hose entering into the condenser.
So some good news (i guess)- second test produced the same results. I pulled the condenser today and ordered the ac receiver/dryer, o-rings and condenser. To be sure I wasn't missing a hidden leak I pulled the evaporator and checked for dye. No dye in the evap but ordered the expansion valve as a precautionary measure since it's open.
A large collection of debris was in the evap but otherwise everything looked pretty good.
Now just hoping I can get this all back together!
A large collection of debris was in the evap but otherwise everything looked pretty good.
Now just hoping I can get this all back together!
Jesus you pulled the evap?! Good for you for going through all that effort. Coat all the o-rings in whatever refrigerant oil you are using before assembly. Also pull a vacuum on it for as long as possible. 30 minutes plus for best results. Use the sight glass in the r/d to look for bubbles to look for over/under charge. At idle center vent temp of 40-60* is optimal. Can’t remember if the 80s have an electric fan, but if they do make sure it’s running full tilt at idle with a/c on. If you have a temp gun a/c lines going in/out of the evap should be roughly 5* of each other. Also look for compressor short cycling to indicate over/under charge.
