Welding broken bolts (1 Viewer)

[flintknapper]

Best advice I can give on buying a welder is you get what you pay for. Cheap ones might burn metal together but they don't work as well as a quality unit and don't last nearly as long. If you're trying to keep cost down you are better off finding a used version of a quality brand than you are getting a new cheap one.

I have a Miller 211 and love it. It has the ability to select the wire speed and amperage for you based on material thickness and wire size or allows fully customization of the settings (more advanced). Its great for sheet metal and also lets me build larger stuff like bumpers, cages and sliders. I like that its capable of using 240v or 120v power supply. If you're just doing small stuff the Miller 141 would also work well.

Be sure to get one with a gas system. Flux core works ok, but for sheet metal the gas shielded is the way to go.

I previously had a Lincoln, no complaints with them either. Unit worked great for me for over 12 years.

Hobart is popular and I believe is made by Miller.

Agree the 211 is a fine machine. It's what I use as well.

Hobart is built to different specifications but both brands are owned by Illinois Tool Works, not made by Miller.

Each person must decide what their needs are (occasional use, hobbist, thin metal only.....or more serious DIYer with other needs).

Purchase accordingly. DO recognize there will more costs than just the unit itself....unless you opt for flux core wire only and pretty much just need to tack things together.

If using solid core shielded wire....there are different diameters, you'll need a Bottle(s) of shielding gas, PPE, extra tips, etc....

IF your unit didn't come with hoses and regulator, you'll need that. IF you want/need to weld aluminum....you'll need a spool gun and a bottle of pure argon. I use mine a lot for that. It all adds up.....so its well worth considering what you really need and how often you will use it.

 

[changingground]

I’ve been using a Hobart 187 ( hobby 220 volt mig machine) for 13 years, built several bumpers, sliders, etc with it, as well as other projects. Beware- owning a mig welder has an uncanny ability to generate welding projects. I’ll be moving soon and my greatest priority in our outrageous real estate market is a shop/garage with 2 220 volt outlets.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

I use a Hobart handler 100. Little guy, 110V machine, flux core only. Probably should have bought a bigger machine, but it was all I could afford at the time.
I have gotten very good with it. Where the little machine falls flat is duty cycle and size of weld in single pass.
It is far more capable than "just tacking things together" as someone above mentioned. It just takes longer, and better planning.
The thing I really like about flux core is I do all my welding outside with no screens, with flux core wire you don't have to worry about the shielding gas being blown away from the weld.
The big 220V gas sheild MIG machines are the bomb, they are hot melt glue guns for steel, but you need a weld shop or wind screens.

 

[AirheadNut]

A decent welding helmet and a welding jacket that has a high collar will go a long way to protecting you from any spatter. As for welders, don't discount finding a used machine on Craigslist or Facebook marketplace. I started out with a lightly used Millermatic 140 which was a great little welder, but I quickly outgrew its capability in terms of metal thickness. I then used a friend's Millermatic 180, which is a 220v machine, and now I have a Millermatic 211 that I picked up on Craigslist for $500. I would highly recommend looking for a dual voltage machine like that; I run mine on 120v most of the time because it is a lot easier to plug in anywhere or run a short extension cord, but it is really nice to be able to plug in to 220v to burn together some 3/8" plate if I need to. IMO gas shielded mig welding is the ideal setup for a hobbyist, the gas makes it easy to make a nice weld with minimal cleanup.

 

[Corbet]

I also have the Miller 211. Great machine for the Cruiser owner.

 

[Bambusiero]

x2 what @Pin_Head said, but I like using reverse twist drill bits, stepping up diameter gradually.
Have only had to deal with this sort of trouble a few times, but, using reverse twist drill bits, the broken bolt just spontaneously backed out by itself at some point.

 

[Bambusiero]

By PPE you guys are referring to weld helmets with filtered breathing air? Would love to have it - but way out of my price range.

 

[changingground]

By PPE you guys are referring to weld helmets with filtered breathing air? Would love to have it - but way out of my price range.

I can’t speak for them, and yes, a fresh air supply helmet would be nice to have, but I’ve welded under the vehicle with my regular Miller auto dark helmet, suede welding jacket, jeans or Carhartts, and gauntlet gloves.

 

[flintknapper]

By PPE you guys are referring to weld helmets with filtered breathing air? Would love to have it - but way out of my price range.

No, just a good Auto-Dimming helmet, Good gloves, jacket IF you weld overhead much, some boots. You should have adequate ventilation when welding...so no masks or filtering should be needed. However if welding on galvanized metal....be aware the fumes created are toxic.

 

[Saito]

Best advice I can give on buying a welder is you get what you pay for. Cheap ones might burn metal together but they don't work as well as a quality unit and don't last nearly as long. If you're trying to keep cost down you are better off finding a used version of a quality brand than you are getting a new cheap one.

I have a Miller 211 and love it. It has the ability to select the wire speed and amperage for you based on material thickness and wire size or allows fully customization of the settings (more advanced). Its great for sheet metal and also lets me build larger stuff like bumpers, cages and sliders. I like that its capable of using 240v or 120v power supply. If you're just doing small stuff the Miller 141 would also work well.

Be sure to get one with a gas system. Flux core works ok, but for sheet metal the gas shielded is the way to go.

I previously had a Lincoln, no complaints with them either. Unit worked great for me for over 12 years.

Hobart is popular and I believe is made by Miller.

Justified buying a Millermatic 211 about 4 years ago and I’m so glad I did. Excellent machine.

 

[flintknapper]

I use a Hobart handler 100. Little guy, 110V machine, flux core only. Probably should have bought a bigger machine, but it was all I could afford at the time.
I have gotten very good with it. Where the little machine falls flat is duty cycle and size of weld in single pass.
It is far more capable than "just tacking things together" as someone above mentioned. It just takes longer, and better planning.
The thing I really like about flux core is I do all my welding outside with no screens, with flux core wire you don't have to worry about the shielding gas being blown away from the weld.
The big 220V gas sheild MIG machines are the bomb, they are hot melt glue guns for steel, but you need a weld shop or wind screens.

I'll use flux core occasionally (outside) when wind is an issue and I'm welding something thin and am going to grind it smooth anyway. Otherwise....I just get the stick welder out. I'm well aware that 'decent' welds 'can' be made with flux core and low amperage machines, but the 'average' DIYer makes a pretty pitiful looking weld with low penetration from what I've seen. Of course, practice is the key....but apparently most folks don't.

 

[Pin_Head]

Left hand twist drills are cool and work, but if you break off an EZ out in the hole, you will hate yourself. It is easier to just drill a hole and tap a new one

 

[Perfected]

Overhead MIG can be tricky for a rookie / amateur welder. I suggest practicing the other positions first on some scrap metal. And make sure you have the proper PPE.

 

[Railwelder93]

None of this will help with those bolts, but I’ll talk welders. To preface I have been playing with all manner of making steel hot and sticky for a living for about 10 years now.

It has to be pretty damn windy for mig not to work. You can crank the gas up.

You definitely don’t need an air supply/ filter helmet. We rarely even use those at work.

Any little mig machine of a brand you have heard of before will be great for 4x4 work in the garage.

Gas is wayyyyyy better than flux core.

Don’t rent bottles, find a welding supply that will let you buy one. A 125 cube will last forever, just doing hobby work in the garage.

I have a few welders in the garage, the one I use the most is the mig on the little Miller 215.

My opinion the best damn mig machine ever for high level hobby/ low level professional use is the old faithful Miller 252.

But like I said any little mig machine with gas will be the tits in the garage.

 

[Railwelder93]

I agree that you probably need drill bits and extractors for those little boogers tho.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Laying on your back, welding overhead, will you not burn the fire out of yourself with the sparks falling in your face?

MIG welding under a car, and getting a hot bead of weld spatter fall into your ear, and then listening to it sizzle in your own ear wax, and banging your head on the frame while trying to shake that hot little mother fùcker loose from your ear is a rite of passage!!

 

[mudgudgeon]

Don’t lay under it lol

If there is big globs of molten metal fall down everywhere while you are welding a nut on a broken bolt, you are doing something wrong.

It’s really not that bad.

This. Position yourself so you aren't directly under it.

Just as important as a good welder is a good automatically darkening welding helmet.

Although, more than once, I've been caught out where the frame blocked the light sensor from a direct shot of light, and the auto darkening function wasn’t triggered.

 

[mudgudgeon]

By PPE you guys are referring to weld helmets with filtered breathing air? Would love to have it - but way out of my price range.

I think he means flip flops, and old t-shirt with strategically placed holes

 

[flintknapper]

MIG welding under a car, and getting a hot bead of weld spatter fall into your ear, and then listening to it sizzle in your own ear wax, and banging your head on the frame while trying to shake that hot little mother fùcker loose from your ear is a rite of passage!!

Yep, that's one you won't soon forget. After the first time....you will learn to use those small spongy ear plugs.

I have 52 years of welding experience (both on and off the job) and have had just about everything that CAN happen, happen to me. I've been burned so many ways its not even funny. Caught myself on fire, caught what I was working on....on fire, been shocked, choked on fumes, ruined my eyesight, burned my retinas, got the infamous welding 'sunburn' on exposed skin, etc....

I'm old enough to remember when the first MIG machines came out. It changed the world of welding in a significant way. But because of 'lead' length is restrictive in where you can take and use it. In a 'shop' setting it is ideal.

MIG can also be 'learned' well enough by a complete novice (with some practice) to allow for serviceable welds (even if not aesthetically pleasing).

In some cases....you just can't avoid getting some 'spatter' on you. But you should be able to avoid having large globs of molten metal falling down on you. You shouldn't be creating large globs to begin with....especially with MIG.

Stick welding is another matter. If you are in a confined space, welding overhead with a 7018, have the electrode stuck right in your work and letting it burn at Flux Rate, yeah....you're going to get flux and metal dropping down.....period!

And if you are 40' above a concrete floor...in a bucket, welding a purlin tab on a rafter, you don't really have anywhere to go. On a hot Texas day....it can be 105°f on the ground. Up in the peak of the building its more like 120°F. You won't have your 'leathers' on in that kind of heat.

But yes, take all reasonable measures to protect yourself from spatter and other calamities that can happen while welding.

 

[BILT4ME]

Yep, that's one you won't soon forget. After the first time....you will learn to use those small spongy ear plugs.

I have 52 years of welding experience (both on and off the job) and have had just about everything that CAN happen, happen to me. I've been burned so many ways its not even funny. Caught myself on fire, caught what I was working on....on fire, been shocked, choked on fumes, ruined my eyesight, burned my retinas, got the infamous welding 'sunburn' on exposed skin, etc....

I'm old enough to remember when the first MIG machines came out. It changed the world of welding in a significant way. But because of 'lead' length is restrictive in where you can take and use it. In a 'shop' setting it is ideal.

MIG can also be 'learned' well enough by a complete novice (with some practice) to allow for serviceable welds (even if not aesthetically pleasing).

In some cases....you just can't avoid getting some 'spatter' on you. But you should be able to avoid having large globs of molten metal falling down on you. You shouldn't be creating large globs to begin with....especially with MIG.

Stick welding is another matter. If you are in a confined space, welding overhead with a 7018, have the electrode stuck right in your work and letting it burn at Flux Rate, yeah....you're going to get flux and metal dropping down.....period!

And if you are 40' above a concrete floor...in a bucket, welding a purlin tab on a rafter, you don't really have anywhere to go. On a hot Texas day....it can be 105°f on the ground. Up in the peak of the building its more like 120°F. You won't have your 'leathers' on in that kind of heat.

But yes, take all reasonable measures to protect yourself from spatter and other calamities that can happen while welding.

The hot glob down into your boot into that little hole where the tongue meets the body of the boot at the ankle and the boots pucker out just a little when flexed. It takes so damn long to undo those laces.