Rockymtnreaper
Colorado.Cruiser
Nice to know that nothing is easy for any of us building these beasts. Glad they honored the work.
Builds Welcome home Matilda - faded like your favorite pair of jeans (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter CruiserTrash
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #402
Up next:
-Rear bench seat mods. Install a 62 seat back with headrests and put my upholstery over it. Install 3-point belts. Put in 62 cargo panels with the plastic covers that go over the belt retractor. All parts are here or on the way.
-install L-track in the cargo area with rivnuts so I have a place to strap down cargo.
Been hearing some strange noises lately too. When I accelerate strongly up to about 2900rpm I get a weird noise. Maybe a belt, it sounds similar but not quite like an undertensioned belt squealing on a pulley. Any other ideas? I wonder if that rod bearing that almost spun is now spinning away in the engine. Brakes are scratchy/squeaky just driving down the road withOUT pressing the brake pedal. I think this is the end stage of my drama where the rear shoes kept adjusting too tight. I’ll redo the rears with new OEM drums and shoes soon. Parts cannon time! Maybe bearings while I’m in there? I also get a weird sort of hollow rattling sound over bumps from the front left. It’s always happened on Matilda. I suspect the Rancho shocks that came on this thing probably need replaced, which would be the last part of the suspension that hasn’t been replaced. Anybody ever heard a noise like that? Also, since I have my suspension set up pretty soft, does anybody have recommendations for better bump stops? Any experience with the progressive ones? Just get the cheap Daystar stuff? Duro? I’ll go about an inch longer than stock I think. I don’t need the most expensive ones with the little built in shocks, but maybe better than the hard rubber OEM.
I’ll leave y’all with a photo. Everybody loves the mountains of Colorado. I’d argue that the eastern plains are highly underrated. This is from Pawnee National Grasslands last weekend. There’s a beauty in how quiet and still everything is out there. Some beautiful cliffs and buttes too, if you know where to look. Lots of wide open BLM land where you can mosey down little grassy two tracks as well.
-Rear bench seat mods. Install a 62 seat back with headrests and put my upholstery over it. Install 3-point belts. Put in 62 cargo panels with the plastic covers that go over the belt retractor. All parts are here or on the way.
-install L-track in the cargo area with rivnuts so I have a place to strap down cargo.
Been hearing some strange noises lately too. When I accelerate strongly up to about 2900rpm I get a weird noise. Maybe a belt, it sounds similar but not quite like an undertensioned belt squealing on a pulley. Any other ideas? I wonder if that rod bearing that almost spun is now spinning away in the engine. Brakes are scratchy/squeaky just driving down the road withOUT pressing the brake pedal. I think this is the end stage of my drama where the rear shoes kept adjusting too tight. I’ll redo the rears with new OEM drums and shoes soon. Parts cannon time! Maybe bearings while I’m in there? I also get a weird sort of hollow rattling sound over bumps from the front left. It’s always happened on Matilda. I suspect the Rancho shocks that came on this thing probably need replaced, which would be the last part of the suspension that hasn’t been replaced. Anybody ever heard a noise like that? Also, since I have my suspension set up pretty soft, does anybody have recommendations for better bump stops? Any experience with the progressive ones? Just get the cheap Daystar stuff? Duro? I’ll go about an inch longer than stock I think. I don’t need the most expensive ones with the little built in shocks, but maybe better than the hard rubber OEM.
I’ll leave y’all with a photo. Everybody loves the mountains of Colorado. I’d argue that the eastern plains are highly underrated. This is from Pawnee National Grasslands last weekend. There’s a beauty in how quiet and still everything is out there. Some beautiful cliffs and buttes too, if you know where to look. Lots of wide open BLM land where you can mosey down little grassy two tracks as well.
Regarding the front end noise, could be the damper or a worn out anti roll bar bushing. Do you need some shocks? I have a complete set of OME’s in the garage I could bring out to SAS if interested and you’re willing to wait that long. They have approx 3k on them…. Price would be a few beers. As far as the noise at higher RPM, definitely check your belt tensions and go from there.
Love the plains, I always enjoy stopping along the way to CO on some back road and just talking in the expanse.
Love the plains, I always enjoy stopping along the way to CO on some back road and just talking in the expanse.
- Thread starter
- #404
Sway bar bushings are new. Shocks came from PO, so they might be really old. Because of the added height of my shackle reversal I'll need to get creative - stock ones wont work. Thanks for the offer though!
Maybe I'm making a mountain out of a molehill with the belt noise. I've been known to do that.
- Thread starter
- #405
Not really Matilda rated, but …
I’ve acquired another rusty piece of trash: 1983 Tercel, SR5 4WD wagon, 5+1+1 speed. @batthewmrown and @cruiserinsanity guessed correctly!
Runs, drives, stops, great compression, everything works. Needs a thorough baseline. I’ll do all the coolant hoses, WP, thermostat, replace the belts, air filter, fuel filter, and spark plugs, change all the oils, new CV axles and suspension, and redo the brake system. All Rock Auto, all for about $1000 in parts.
I’m thinking sand and prime the rust then rattle can paint job, too. The bumper sticker game will be on point, just wait.
I’ve acquired another rusty piece of trash: 1983 Tercel, SR5 4WD wagon, 5+1+1 speed. @batthewmrown and @cruiserinsanity guessed correctly!
Runs, drives, stops, great compression, everything works. Needs a thorough baseline. I’ll do all the coolant hoses, WP, thermostat, replace the belts, air filter, fuel filter, and spark plugs, change all the oils, new CV axles and suspension, and redo the brake system. All Rock Auto, all for about $1000 in parts.
I’m thinking sand and prime the rust then rattle can paint job, too. The bumper sticker game will be on point, just wait.
- Thread starter
- #407
It’s been hard finding time for my own projects lately. I still have a motor to assemble! This weekend I installed some tie down tracks in the cargo area. The dog is absolutely SICK of bins and bags spilling over onto him when we’re on a rocky trail.
The sit nice and flush so they won’t be in the way when not in use. The tie down points are moveable of course. I’ll probably install a few more soon.
Project Second Row Shoulder Belts is on pause waiting for some laser cut brackets to arrive. I realized the Seat Belt Planet retractors are thicker than the space that the plastic covers. That means I need to trim some sheet metal to inset them, which then means they can’t be mounted directly to the sheet metal because it’s in the wrong plane. So a little offset bracket will do the trick.
Also, Matilda was made in 1982 and has threaded holes in the c-pillars. I’ve never heard of a truck this early with that.
The sit nice and flush so they won’t be in the way when not in use. The tie down points are moveable of course. I’ll probably install a few more soon.
Project Second Row Shoulder Belts is on pause waiting for some laser cut brackets to arrive. I realized the Seat Belt Planet retractors are thicker than the space that the plastic covers. That means I need to trim some sheet metal to inset them, which then means they can’t be mounted directly to the sheet metal because it’s in the wrong plane. So a little offset bracket will do the trick.
Also, Matilda was made in 1982 and has threaded holes in the c-pillars. I’ve never heard of a truck this early with that.
Dude looks great. How did you attach those tie down tracks?
- Thread starter
- #409
M6x1.0 rivnuts.
The fuel tank is 15mm below the sheet metal so I was a little nervous. I used a step bit and took it very slow with almost no downward pressure. When I got to where the bit was cutting the final diameter, there was 3mm between the tip of the bit and the tank. I would give the bit a half dozen spins, pull it out and check for any contact with the tank. I was also using a small screwdriver to check the depth and compare to how deep the bit was. Repeated that over and over being very cautious. The reason I used rivnuts in the first place is because I didn’t want to drop the tank to get a nut on the backside of a bolt. The track closest to the edge is clear of the tank and I could get nuts under there, but I used rivnuts anyway since I was geared up for the process. Unfortunately there wasn’t enough of the carpet or rubber mat at the against the cargo panel to save, so the blue floor is exposed.
Anyway, I hope six rivnuts per track is enough holding force. Should be.
FYI the tracks came from a place called Van Essentials. I guess they’re a “vanlife” outfitter. I wanted black ones that were recessed so they’d look good and sit flush. That was the only place I could find what I wanted.
Last edited:
Thanks for the details. Great work on this. This mod will be in my future as Clark our dog will greatly appreciate it
- Thread starter
- #411
Things are happening. I’m going to make a serious effort to get this new 2F installed, broken in, and shaken out by SAS. I’m ok if it doesn’t happen - the current motor will get me there and back just fine.
Tercel activities are also happening: carb rebuild. I picked up two spares and I figure having a fresh one for the upcoming smog test is a good idea. These carbs have a lot more going on than the 2F carbs. Lots more. Maybe I should make a separate build thread for the Tercel, but there’s not really a good spot in the forum for that.
- Thread starter
- #412
2F engine esoterica:
The oil pump is held on by sliding into a cast block that has a bore in it, then screwing down a fixing bolt. The cast block is bolted to the engine block with two M12 x 1.75 bolts that are staked on the inside. These bolts go through the block:
Now, to keep oil from getting through the holes in the engine block, Toyota used washers that have a rubber seal on the inner diameter. 18 OD, 11.5 ID.
Of course in my well-label bags of disassembled engine stuff, not one washer was present. And I’m trying to use as many new OEM parts as possible, down to nuts, bolts, & washers. I made a big spreadsheet based on the EPC diagrams before I started this engine build a couple years ago and knew the bolts and washers were NLA. So I’m sitting here contemplating FIPG when I decided to search Mud…
Oil pump retaining bolt - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/oil-pump-retaining-bolt.298005/
…and of course somebody has figured this out. There’s an active Lexus part number that fits! 90210-11002. I think the OD is 1mm smaller, but the ID is the same.
Now the conundrum is whether I should use some M12 washers and FIPG so I can keep working all weekend. I can’t install the oil filter bracket or oil cooler until I do this because they block access to those holes in the block. I’m trying to get this thing in for SAS after all.
The oil pump is held on by sliding into a cast block that has a bore in it, then screwing down a fixing bolt. The cast block is bolted to the engine block with two M12 x 1.75 bolts that are staked on the inside. These bolts go through the block:
Now, to keep oil from getting through the holes in the engine block, Toyota used washers that have a rubber seal on the inner diameter. 18 OD, 11.5 ID.
Of course in my well-label bags of disassembled engine stuff, not one washer was present. And I’m trying to use as many new OEM parts as possible, down to nuts, bolts, & washers. I made a big spreadsheet based on the EPC diagrams before I started this engine build a couple years ago and knew the bolts and washers were NLA. So I’m sitting here contemplating FIPG when I decided to search Mud…
Oil pump retaining bolt - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/oil-pump-retaining-bolt.298005/
…and of course somebody has figured this out. There’s an active Lexus part number that fits! 90210-11002. I think the OD is 1mm smaller, but the ID is the same.
Now the conundrum is whether I should use some M12 washers and FIPG so I can keep working all weekend. I can’t install the oil filter bracket or oil cooler until I do this because they block access to those holes in the block. I’m trying to get this thing in for SAS after all.
RevISK
SILVER Star
I’d say soldier on.
- Thread starter
- #414
Done. Found some hardened washers in my stash that were an exact fit and applied the magic black goop. They were actually from my leftover bag of hardware that Seat Belt Planet supplied with my front belts. Go figure.
Oil pump, oil pipe, union, and banjo fitting are in. Did some guessing at torque values since there’s not much detail in the FSM about installing the oil pump. Did some educated guessing based on the generic fastener torque values in the back of the book. I’m sure it’s fine … maybe? A dab of red high temp thread locker went onto the M8 fixing bolt for the oil pump. It’s a #7 bolt so it got 22ftlb.
Had to backtrack and install the rear main seal as well. I’d previously gone ahead and torqued the #4 main bearing cap down because I couldn’t find the RMS in my 50 boxes of new parts, but I finally stumbled across it tonight.
Ready for oil filter bracket, oil cooler, and fuel pump tomorrow, then maybe get started on prepping for the head install. I’m thinking I might start tanking the motor out of my truck by next weekend. I’ll shoot for using PTO to take Friday and Monday off work and maybe go the new motor in too … if all goes according to plan.
I requested a Toyota car section and was directed to General Tech.
I'd follow your Tercel build!
- Thread starter
- #416
Lots of progress today, almost feels like too much. It’s even starting to look like an engine.
Fuel pump
Oil filter bracket
Oil cooler
Oil pressure sender
Front cover
Crank pulley
Lifters
Side cover
Part of the day was spent deep cleaning inside the oil filter bracket and then reinstalling the plugs and the little spring bypass affair. Then painting that (masking a million machined flats) and the side cover.
Pretty sure I can get the head on tomorrow, along with the push rods and rocker assembly. And then almost everything else after that needs to come off my current motor:
Water pump & fan clutch
Thermostat housing
Coolant hardlines (that bolt to the block)
Valve cover
Manifolds & carb
It feels like it’s all happening very fast now, but at this point I might park the 60 tomorrow or Monday and start disconnecting motor related things. After work all next week I’ll be prepping. Taking current-motor stuff off, cleaning it, and populating it on the new motor, liberating the transmission and rolling it back and out of the way so it’s ready to roll into the new motor, removing the front end pieces that need to get out of the way, etc. I’m aiming to take Friday and Monday off work next week and get the new motor into the truck and hopefully fired up for the cam burn-in. That leaves me ~3 weeks for the recommended 500-700 miles of easy-going break-in driving before leaving for SAS. Worst case scenario I drive around the city for a couple hours every night listening to tunes or whatever.
That will also be my time frame for ferreting out any potential issues. I would normally say it’s a bad idea to take a new motor on a long trip so soon, but I know how well everything else in the engine bay is working. If trouble does arise I’ll be able to narrow it down to the motor pretty quickly which cuts down on troubleshooting time.
More photos:
Kind of worried about how dinged up the block is right above the big coolant passage (below). Hopefully extra goop on the water pump gasket does the trick. It’s already been block sanded with 400 & 800 grit - it looks worse than it is … but it’s not great.
The adapter in the oil pressure sender location (below) is so I can run the stock sender to the dash gauge plus an aftermarket, accurate oil pressure gauge during the cam run-in. 2500rpm for 20 minutes immediately upon first fire of the engine.
Fuel pump
Oil filter bracket
Oil cooler
Oil pressure sender
Front cover
Crank pulley
Lifters
Side cover
Part of the day was spent deep cleaning inside the oil filter bracket and then reinstalling the plugs and the little spring bypass affair. Then painting that (masking a million machined flats) and the side cover.
Pretty sure I can get the head on tomorrow, along with the push rods and rocker assembly. And then almost everything else after that needs to come off my current motor:
Water pump & fan clutch
Thermostat housing
Coolant hardlines (that bolt to the block)
Valve cover
Manifolds & carb
It feels like it’s all happening very fast now, but at this point I might park the 60 tomorrow or Monday and start disconnecting motor related things. After work all next week I’ll be prepping. Taking current-motor stuff off, cleaning it, and populating it on the new motor, liberating the transmission and rolling it back and out of the way so it’s ready to roll into the new motor, removing the front end pieces that need to get out of the way, etc. I’m aiming to take Friday and Monday off work next week and get the new motor into the truck and hopefully fired up for the cam burn-in. That leaves me ~3 weeks for the recommended 500-700 miles of easy-going break-in driving before leaving for SAS. Worst case scenario I drive around the city for a couple hours every night listening to tunes or whatever.
That will also be my time frame for ferreting out any potential issues. I would normally say it’s a bad idea to take a new motor on a long trip so soon, but I know how well everything else in the engine bay is working. If trouble does arise I’ll be able to narrow it down to the motor pretty quickly which cuts down on troubleshooting time.
More photos:
Kind of worried about how dinged up the block is right above the big coolant passage (below). Hopefully extra goop on the water pump gasket does the trick. It’s already been block sanded with 400 & 800 grit - it looks worse than it is … but it’s not great.
The adapter in the oil pressure sender location (below) is so I can run the stock sender to the dash gauge plus an aftermarket, accurate oil pressure gauge during the cam run-in. 2500rpm for 20 minutes immediately upon first fire of the engine.
RevISK
SILVER Star
Crazy.
Get it
Get it
- Thread starter
- #418
More progress. Matilda is officially parked in my shop and I started tearing down the motor peripherals last night.
Couple of questions for the hive mind:
1. Where is your oil pressure sender located? On my existing motor it’s in one of the banjo bolts on the oil cooler. I’ve seen photos of it located where it is in the photo above, in the oil filter bracket. Pros and cons?
2. I have two oil pressure senders in my parts. One has a nub on the top for a wire. The other has the nub and a spade terminal. I know never to connect anything to the spade, but is there any calibration difference between the two? Like is one meant to play nice with a different vehicle’s gauge cluster?
3. Engine fittings that hold liquid: the oil pressure sender, the temp sender and coolant pipes in the head, for a couple examples. These are tapered fittings so no sealant or thread tape, correct? Just go in dry? Also, how tight do you want them? I’ve done plumbing and gas line work with iron pipe that has tapered fittings … but a motor will get hot and the metal will expand. I don’t want to go too tight, then have the metal expand and crack anything. I also obviously don’t want any leaks.
Couple of questions for the hive mind:
1. Where is your oil pressure sender located? On my existing motor it’s in one of the banjo bolts on the oil cooler. I’ve seen photos of it located where it is in the photo above, in the oil filter bracket. Pros and cons?
2. I have two oil pressure senders in my parts. One has a nub on the top for a wire. The other has the nub and a spade terminal. I know never to connect anything to the spade, but is there any calibration difference between the two? Like is one meant to play nice with a different vehicle’s gauge cluster?
3. Engine fittings that hold liquid: the oil pressure sender, the temp sender and coolant pipes in the head, for a couple examples. These are tapered fittings so no sealant or thread tape, correct? Just go in dry? Also, how tight do you want them? I’ve done plumbing and gas line work with iron pipe that has tapered fittings … but a motor will get hot and the metal will expand. I don’t want to go too tight, then have the metal expand and crack anything. I also obviously don’t want any leaks.
For topic #3 in your list, I run this thread sealant in tapered threads. Helps eliminate any galling possibilities and provides some lubrication while you are threading in.
As far as torque spec goes, this should get you in the ballpark, I know it’s in Imperial vs metric but it should help:
As far as torque spec goes, this should get you in the ballpark, I know it’s in Imperial vs metric but it should help:
Last edited:
On my 2F both. I'm running a stock sending unit off the oil cooler banjo bolt and a aftermarket oil pressure gauge tapped into the oil filter housing.
