Builds Weenie 3 - Bringing another 40 back from the dead (1 Viewer)

[wngrog]

I found a good thread on pedal height and read up on it. I wanted to get this in spec to make sure I really had to dig back into the brakes.

Brake Pedal Height Adjustment?

Wrenching newbie here. I am far better fixing an eyeball then an FJ40...easier I think. I am working with Extreme Vehicle Builders in Danbury trying to solve a brake height pedal issue. I searched the forum and assume they tried the easy fixes. The height differential between gas and brake is...

forum.ih8mud.com

There is a great link to a City Racer tech thread on the booster. I’ve installed 4 and really got lucky I guess. This one was not right though going from the old 4 wheel drum booster.

As you can see if i matched the length in the Ubolt the threads came through and hit the pedal arm.

I trimmed about 1/2” off and reinstalled and got the pedal to the factory spec.

Then I guesstimated the pushrod depth and put it together. When I drove it it was a great pedal but I had to pump it like it had air in the lines

 

[wngrog]

I was really hoping that would give me the Porsche brakes I’m wanting but alas......

I purchased some reman calipers, some new hardline and made a few lines. I think I have it all good now.

I also added Toyota pads this time. I did not like the feel of the aftermarket ones I used before.

My Toyota fitting for my Power Bleeder will be here Monday. I think I’ll wait and do them then to test it out

 

[wngrog]

Took a much needed break from Weenie 3 work and sorted bolts all day yesterday.

This EvapoRust is unreal. Drop your nasty OEM bolts in and a couple hours later fish them out and they look new.

Wiper arms came in. Wrong. Dammit.


Finally found a blower motor that does not raise hell. Thanks @USMC22 (Fluid Film deoloyed)

Then I deployed this thing. No time to bleed but I got pressure into the system to check for leaks. It’s sitting at 10 psi. I’ll check tomorrow.

And for the record. Loosen this, THEN turn the 3 buckles. Then tighten the middle. Otherwise you pump a quart of fluid on your floor.

 

[wngrog]

2 months of possession and a bit over 200 hours later, I bolted the final major pieces to this project on.

 

[Garrissey]

Bravo.

 

[Tancruiser]

Nice but I think that bumper needs a little patina work

 

[wngrog]

I pumped up that bleeder before I went out of town and came back and it all still had pressure. That’s good. No leaks.

This morning though, I’ve bled the brakes out and driven it 4 times and they are getting better but not perfect. I just keep getting air and a soft pedal.

 

[1911]

Nolen, I just bled my brakes not long ago. I couldn't find my Motive Products power bleeder (packed away in the move somewhere) so I bought one of these:
Amazon product ASIN B00E6TXVJI
It was a one-man job like the Motive power bleeder, but easier (no messing with the seal on the master cylinder) and my brakes were PERFECT the first time I tried it - brakes were hard as rock with no air whatsoever. I was amazed; something that really works as claimed. I have been bleeding brakes for 45+ years and I have never had it this easy and effective until now.

 

[cbmontgo]

Nolen, I just bled my brakes not long ago. I couldn't find my Motive Products power bleeder (packed away in the move somewhere) so I bought one of these:
Amazon product ASIN B00E6TXVJI
It was a one-man job like the Motive power bleeder, but easier (no messing with the seal on the master cylinder) and my brakes were PERFECT the first time I tried it - brakes were hard as rock with no air whatsoever. I was amazed; something that really works as claimed. I have been bleeding brakes for 45+ years and I have never had it this easy and effective until now.

That is slick.

 

[1911]

That is slick.

It's really versatile too; it reverse bleeds, vacuum bleeds, pressure bleeds, bench bleeds masters, almost any configuration you can imagine. My stock front (disc) cylinders would not reverse bleed because there is a residual valve in the system, so in two seconds I was vacuum bleeding them and it worked like a charm, no muss no fuss.

 

[Dizzy]

I have the Phoenix bleeder, never used it, but I think that I need to. One thing that was explained in an old thread was that the Phoenix bleeder nipple needs to be wrapped with teflon tape so that the nipple can be open, but not loosing all of the pressure or hydraulic fluid at the location of the cylinder where it screws into the cylinder.

I think that those rear cylinders are kinda troubling in that the line over the axle is a natural bubble, and that there is only one bleeder. In addition, the cylinders themselves bleed from their equator, of sorts, and air wants to go north. Also, in theory, unbolt the axle, and turn it 90 degrees with the driveshaft flange at top, so that the front bleeder is at top because the back cylinder is kind of a dead-end.

In the past, I had good luck with someone on the pedal pressurizing it, and me releasing it all at once then closing the bleeder screw until the master was pressurized again. That was on a '73 stock, and my pedal pusher now lives an hour away and maintains a much busier schedule.

 

[1911]

One thing that was explained in an old thread was that the Phoenix bleeder nipple needs to be wrapped with teflon tape so that the nipple can be open, but not loosing all of the pressure or hydraulic fluid at the location of the cylinder where it screws into the cylinder.

Yes this is true, and well-explained in the instructions that come with the Phoenix.

 

[wngrog]

I’ve been pretty lucky I guess. I’ve completely rebuilt a few Toyota brake systems keeping 4 wheel and rear wheel discs and have not had this much of a problem. All recent so ......

It’s not a big deal. I’ll get a pedal kicker in here soon and tackle it again. I really like the idea of the Power Bleeder and man, once you get the hang of it you can really push some fluid through. I know I have used (and spilt at first) at least 2 quarts. It’s clean as a whistle now that I removed the old front calipers.

Yesterday when I was “finished” bleeding I installed the new blower motor and squirrel cage that I finally found that was quiet. This one came from an early FJ55. The motor is bigger and the squirrel cage was a bit smaller but it is quiet now.

Engine runs great. No leaks. I’m finished up here.

I had to rewire a tail light that stopped working. That only took a jump wire.

The only thing I’m waiting on now is a double sealed speedometer housing from @orangefj45 to get rid of the only leak and to rebuild the parking brake.

 

[Flatlanderfj40]

Where is it off to now? Great thread too.

 

[wngrog]

Where is it off to now? Great thread too.

Thank you.

I’m gonna let the new owner out himself whenever he wants.

I still have it until spring. He’s a damn yankee and does not need a topless 40 until it thaws a bit.
I’m going to shake it down real good in the mean time. Don’t want any loose ends popping up

 

[wngrog]

This vacuum bleeder is pretty cool. I can certainly see that in any normal situation where everything was good before you say, changed a line or a master, it would make bleeding a snap.

The instructions have some great tech about why you need the ass end of the master elevated. Also, the fact that if you are vacuuming from the bleeder valves you need to tighten them up with Teflon tape

But in the end I still don’t have brakes

I have a two pump pedal with the rear proportion valve in. Then it locks up.

Take the valve out and the pedal is immediate and the tears lock up and the pedal feels great.

Take the rears completely out of the system with a vice grip and the pedal is hard and the fronts work but don’t lock up good.

I literally pumped or pulled a 1/2 gallon of brake fluid through it today in some form or fashion.

Lost but not beaten.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Have you checked the master cylinder for residual valves? I’m not sure which master you’re using but some carried a residual valve in the rear circuit, mounted under the big nut where the line attaches. If you have 4-wheel discs you need to remove that for sure, but not sure how it would affect things of you wound up running a proportioning valve and a residual valve - could be messing with things?

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Nevermind, I just looked at the MC above and realized there’s nowhere to hide a residual valve in the usual place on that cylinder.

 

[wngrog]

I was thinking the same thing. That’s why I got frustrated and pulled the City Racer proportion valve.

It went from 3 pump 4-wheel lock up to no pump 2 wheel rear lock up so the proportion valve was doing its job.

Rear brakes are fully rebuilt drums. Slightly dragging so they are right and tight.

The last thing I did before quitting was vice grip the rear brakes out of the system.

when I did that, the pedal travel went about 1/2 as far as before. It is real hard and the front brakes just coast to a stop.

Dunno

I’ll add the prop valve back in tomorrow and keep messing with it.

edit...I also used the fancy Phoenix to recheck my bench bleed on the master. No air there.

 

[wngrog]

With the Motive Pressure bleeder it really does not matter what corner in the rear you start in because there is constant pressure with plenty of fluid so you can hop back and forth and open and close and fluid just flows. It’s really cool.

That said, all mechanical info says you start with the furthest bleeder away from the master and work your way back.

As the crow flies #3 in this diagram is the furthest from the master.

However, as the fluid flows, #4 is the furthest.

What say Mud?