The coolant can be close to 200 F. It'll steam. You don't want boiling coolant. Get them batteries.
Water Pump roadblock.
- Thread starter GojiraFJ60
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The coolant can be close to 200 F. It'll steam. You don't want boiling coolant. Get them batteries.
Missed that you got a new rad. I thought it was steaming from a leak in the rad not the drain. Yeah it's hot in there. Heat and water = steam.
- Thread starter
- #163
Get them batteries.
Yeah…I cracked that thermometer open and just said, “Nice.”
That all being said, just correct me if I’m wrong here. 1. No more CLR/water moving forward. 2. I’ll do another flush with distilled til it runs clear (might have to run the truck itself again with said water just to make sure I get it all out) 3. Coolant. 4. Check temperature with thermometer (with batteries lol.)
I personally don't like using anything caustic when doing flushes. And I never do a flush If the thermostat is installed. You can flush with tap water from the hose till it runs clear. Then run a few gallons of distilled fluid, drain, then add the 50/50 coolant mix. Hopefully you're using the old school green.
- Thread starter
- #165
Yeah I never mentioned that in this particular thread; my first thread here on Mud was when I was replacing the old one. Which I am still on the fence about considering it has one less tube in it than the original - which had 4 I believe.
My bad though, but I appreciate the extra help. I appreciate everybody that chipped in to help, offer guidance, etc.
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- #166
If that's the equivalent of the Toyota red coolant (I don't know), just make sure you flush all the old coolant really really well because the Toyota red and the old school ethylene glycol green do not mix. Was there red coolant in there before, or the Green?
That will likely be fine since you flushed the heck out of it.
Mixing Toyota red with old green that's left in there has caused some issues in the past but it'll be fine in yours.
I think historically green was more readily available and cheaper than the Toyota red variety.
Mixing Toyota red with old green that's left in there has caused some issues in the past but it'll be fine in yours.
I think historically green was more readily available and cheaper than the Toyota red variety.
The Red is better
- Thread starter
- #170
If I remember right, the old coolant (it’s literally been months since then) was actually orange or something along those lines. And this one I have from Prestone is red. My thought process was, “I’ll grab that since it says ‘Toyota’ on it…”
But to S.Caro’s point, I doubt I’ll have any issues with it since I’ve flushed this thing multiple times; even before I reassembled the water pump and everything.
- Thread starter
- #171
Circling back to this for a sec. What’s a good range for it to hover while idling, a flat 200 or something a little higher?
Get them batteries.
If you've got the stock thermostat, should oscillate between 190 and 210 Fahrenheit depending on if you're at highway speeds or idling and what the ambient temperature is.
- Thread starter
- #173
I put in a new one. I got quite a few new parts when I bought the 60; a new tstat was one of those parts.
I was the one suggesting a CLR flush. To be clear that was "fill with CLR/water mix, get to temp, then drain" - not long enough to hurt any aluminum unless you buy a 5 gallon bucket of CLR and fill the entire system with a 100% mix. No harm no foul. And always run a 15 minute flush of distilled water as the last thing before filling the system with coolant for good.
If there isn't much coming out of the block drain when the system is full of liquid and you've loosened it really far, there's sludge built up/crust behind the drain cock. Remove, gently pry out sludge being careful not to knock it INTO the engine. A small pick tool helps. Put drain cock back. Bonus points if you get this fancy upgrade one from Toyota for less than $10. You can connect a hose to it, makes draining the coolant a lot easier next time - instead of the current one that just sprays it everywhere. Any local Toyota dealership can get it and some might have it on the shelf.
Yes, it's called the "cock assy". Dare ya not to laugh. My wife and I get the Beavis & Butthead giggles every time we see one of these.
Here's my experience...
Operating temps with a stock radiator (or a Performance brand rad or other 4-row):
idle - 185-190
around town - 190-195
highway - 190-200
pulling up long hills in the Rockies on the highway - 205
wheeling in 4low, high rpms, going slow - 195-205
Outdoor temp doesn't really seem to matter to the stock or Performance rads and they both seem to live in a very narrow temp range.
Operating temps with a CSF radiator (or other 3-row):
idle - 190-195
around town - 195-200
highway - 205-220
pulling up long hills in the Rockies on the highway - 225
wheeling in 4low, high rpms, going slow - 205-210
The CSF seemed a little more prone to fluctuations of 5-10 degrees with variation in outdoor ambient temps. The CSF overall fluctuated in temp quite a bit for me.
It was the constant 220*F on the highway that made me take my CSF out. I never had a problem, but if there was an issue there's very little margin for error. Temps will go from 220 up to 240-250 in a split second. With the stock radiator if there's an overheat issue I feel like I have a few more seconds of time to shut the truck off and coast somewhere safe.
If there isn't much coming out of the block drain when the system is full of liquid and you've loosened it really far, there's sludge built up/crust behind the drain cock. Remove, gently pry out sludge being careful not to knock it INTO the engine. A small pick tool helps. Put drain cock back. Bonus points if you get this fancy upgrade one from Toyota for less than $10. You can connect a hose to it, makes draining the coolant a lot easier next time - instead of the current one that just sprays it everywhere. Any local Toyota dealership can get it and some might have it on the shelf.
Yes, it's called the "cock assy". Dare ya not to laugh. My wife and I get the Beavis & Butthead giggles every time we see one of these.
Here's my experience...
Operating temps with a stock radiator (or a Performance brand rad or other 4-row):
idle - 185-190
around town - 190-195
highway - 190-200
pulling up long hills in the Rockies on the highway - 205
wheeling in 4low, high rpms, going slow - 195-205
Outdoor temp doesn't really seem to matter to the stock or Performance rads and they both seem to live in a very narrow temp range.
Operating temps with a CSF radiator (or other 3-row):
idle - 190-195
around town - 195-200
highway - 205-220
pulling up long hills in the Rockies on the highway - 225
wheeling in 4low, high rpms, going slow - 205-210
The CSF seemed a little more prone to fluctuations of 5-10 degrees with variation in outdoor ambient temps. The CSF overall fluctuated in temp quite a bit for me.
It was the constant 220*F on the highway that made me take my CSF out. I never had a problem, but if there was an issue there's very little margin for error. Temps will go from 220 up to 240-250 in a split second. With the stock radiator if there's an overheat issue I feel like I have a few more seconds of time to shut the truck off and coast somewhere safe.
Yes, I'm resurrecting this thread to post an important service announcement! Several were debating whether or not to remove the rear plate on the back of the water pump to add sealant. I removed the back on my new Aisin water pump and was surprised to find it full of rust even though it was in a sealed bag. I'm glad I checked as the you can see in the photo below the seal from the factory was breached and would have leaked from day one.
Sadly I've seen that on both OEM Toyota and AISIN boxed pumps recently. Trying to reconcile what changed on their end in that we are seeing this now.
- Thread starter
- #177
Solid tip…and that would be an absolute “WTF” moment.
Thanks everyone! I'm just glad I search the forum just prior to install, would have been a big mess! I've got plenty to do in the meantime!
- Thread starter
- #180
I’m also coming back to resurrect this thread. I got sidetracked because I found that I was having an electrical issue as well; my alternator was gone as well as my fusible link.
However, I’ve gotten the alternator rebuilt, and I also rebuilt the link with a kit from Cruiser Cult.
In any case, I’ve done several distilled water flushes (a lot of Walmart trips…) until I was satisfied with the clarity of water draining from the head, and I finally did a proper coolant fill; system bleed and all.
Looking back on everything that has happened, I realized that I made a mistake in the beginning when I first took my 60 on the road post-purchase. Of course at that time, I didn’t know anything about a “proper” coolant job.
I drained the existing coolant at the time and put one single jug of new coolant in. My theory that doing that whole thing improperly is what caused my water pump to fail, but maybe somebody here can tell me better.
Fast forward to now and I’ve learned quite a lot from here, other folks on platforms like instagram, etc…it’s been a great experience. Frustrating at times, but all worth it.
However, I’ve gotten the alternator rebuilt, and I also rebuilt the link with a kit from Cruiser Cult.
In any case, I’ve done several distilled water flushes (a lot of Walmart trips…) until I was satisfied with the clarity of water draining from the head, and I finally did a proper coolant fill; system bleed and all.
Looking back on everything that has happened, I realized that I made a mistake in the beginning when I first took my 60 on the road post-purchase. Of course at that time, I didn’t know anything about a “proper” coolant job.
I drained the existing coolant at the time and put one single jug of new coolant in. My theory that doing that whole thing improperly is what caused my water pump to fail, but maybe somebody here can tell me better.
Fast forward to now and I’ve learned quite a lot from here, other folks on platforms like instagram, etc…it’s been a great experience. Frustrating at times, but all worth it.