Water Pump roadblock.

[CruiserTrash]

I have had success using helicoil to repair threads. Not on a thermostat housing though but on an 80 series engine block that holds the exhaust manifold on.

If I were in your shoes, I'd try to repair the threads with a helicoil and use carb studs in the lower housing. That way they stay put forever. You'd have nuts to loosen on the top when you'd need to change out the thermostat and gasket.

I did it on my 40 years ago and it's hold strong. Here's the 40 version. You'd need 4 studs and nuts for the 60 series.
View attachment 4059804View attachment 4059803View attachment 4059806

Here is the carb stud that I used, it's the shiny one on top. Was just comparing it to another stud in the pic.

Not sure on the nut part number, I think I had those laying around. There may be a part number in a thread in the 40 section.
View attachment 4059805

As far as removing the valves on the housing, use an O2 sensor socket. It has a slot on the side that will keep clear the plastic vacuum nipples. Use penetrating oil first then heat up the housing.

Cut off the vacuum hoses before all of this then after removal you can get the remnants of hose off the valves. Carefully get a pick under the vacuum line and carefully go around to loosen the hose from the nipple. Don't pry even the slightest or they will break.

Also, get another housing and keep as a spare.

Man, those shiny BVSVs are sexy.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Man, those shiny BVSVs are sexy.

They didn't stay shiny for long unfortunatley

 

[Pighead]

One could look in the classifieds...

For Sale Thread 'N.C. - FJ60 2F thermostat housing'

Jan 1, 2026

Thermostat housing from an FJ60 2F for sale. Good condition.

$50 plus shipping

• R.K.
• Replies: 0
• Forum: Classifieds - Engine/Transmission/Transfer Case

• 

 

[Spike Strip]

Has anyone here had success repairing threads in general?

Yes. It's a known process and standard repair. Drilling and fitting a thread insert into old Aluminum is easy, if you have the clearance to get a drill in there. I don't see any reason why you can't do it with the lower housing still attached to the head. Just make sure no shavings get in the coolant passage. I'd stuff the lower housing and tape it off. Again, there are hundreds of youtube vids on how to do it. Watch a few to see if it's something you want to attempt.

Full Kits are cheap as $10 on Amz.

If you're uncomfortable with drilling it, you can even do low-stress thread repair of this kind with JB Weld epoxy.

 

[GojiraFJ60]

Yes. It's a known process and standard repair. Drilling and fitting a thread insert into old Aluminum is easy, if you have the clearance to get a drill in there. I don't see any reason why you can't do it with the lower housing still attached to the head. Just make sure no shavings get in the coolant passage. I'd stuff the lower housing and tape it off. Again, there are hundreds of youtube vids on how to do it. Watch a few to see if it's something you want to attempt.

Full Kits are cheap as $10 on Amz.

If you're uncomfortable with drilling it, you can even do low-stress thread repair of this kind with JB Weld epoxy.

I have an OMT thread repair set that just arrived today, and I have a new upper and lower housing on the way from Matt that should be here Tuesday/Wednesday.

I’ll see how it pans out tomorrow after work. I might have to get a t-handle from HF if I need to/don’t have one. At minimum I’ll have it repaired and good to go…at best, I’ll have new stuff and a spare. Which I’m more than happy with as an outcome.

 

[Spike Strip]

A 9/32 socket (1/4 drive) will hold that tap, if you have it.

 

[GojiraFJ60]

A 9/32 socket (1/4 drive) will hold that tap, if have it.

Heard that. I wasn’t too sure since all of this stuff is just oddly shaped. Squares and whatnot. I saw a video on YouTube about how to use the set, but like always, I want to be 100% before I do anything. Can you use a standard drill to drill the hole out with the supplied bit?

 

[Spike Strip]

Yes. Any drill will hold the supplied drill bit.

I you're going to HF, this ratcheting Tap Handle is pretty good. Works well when tapping soft aluminum.

https://www.harborfreight.com/t-handle-tap-ratchet-wrench-97633.html

 

[GojiraFJ60]

Yes. Any drill will hold the supplied drill bit.

I you're going to HF, this ratcheting Tap Handle is pretty good. Works well when tapping soft aluminum.

https://www.harborfreight.com/t-handle-tap-ratchet-wrench-97633.html

10-4, thanks.
I was looking at that exact Tap handle last night. I’ll pick one up.

 

[GojiraFJ60]

Good morning fellas.
Just an update this morning. I’ve got the new housing on standby (thanks @cruisermatt)
And I just drilled out the old holes. So far, it looks pretty good…

 

[GojiraFJ60]

Good morning fellas.
Just an update this morning. I’ve got the new housing on standby (thanks @cruisermatt)
And I just drilled out the old holes. So far, it looks pretty good…

View attachment 4064364

View attachment 4064365

I probably should have asked before, but given how deep these holes are (or just in general), can you put two in there? Or is one sufficient?

 

[Spike Strip]

That will work fine, but you really only need to go a couple of threads below the surface. Nice work.

 

[GojiraFJ60]

That will work fine, but you really only need to go a couple of threads below the surface. Nice work.

Gotcha, that sounds fair enough. Thanks

 

[GojiraFJ60]

Evening guys. Another update here.

I went and got some CLR to mix with water to run through the system before I do the final fill with coolant and everything. I was unable to gauge the temperature with my IF thermometer (I forgot a battery for it) so I just watched the gauge from inside. Once it got hot, I went ahead and shut it off, and proceeded to drain the system from the radiator and head plug.

I got a bunch of steam coming from the radiator when I unplugged it…is that…”normal”? My immediate guess is that, “Well the system was hot…”

But if I’m wrong…that’s why I’m here.

 

[Pighead]

Don't use CLR on aluminum...

 

[GojiraFJ60]

Don't use CLR on aluminum...

…What do you mean by that…?
I hope you don’t mean not to use it on its own, definitely didn’t do that. I just mixed it up with some water.

 

[Pighead]

just the first thing that popped up on google...

You should not use standard CLR (Calcium, Lime, and Rust Remover) on aluminum because its strong acids will etch, pit, discolor, and permanently damage the soft metal, even when diluted.

 

[GojiraFJ60]

just the first thing that popped up on google...

You should not use standard CLR (Calcium, Lime, and Rust Remover) on aluminum because its strong acids will etch, pit, discolor, and permanently damage the soft metal, even when diluted.

Noted. What’s a bit frustrating in that regard is the conflicting information that I’m receiving…I’ve had one person here suggest I use a CLR/water mix to clean the system before filling with coolant, now I’m being told not to. That’s fine, I’ll leave that be. That isn’t the pressing issue I’m having right now.

I’m just concerned for right now if I was supposed to be seeing steam coming from the radiator plug when I went to drain it.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

The CLR could have loosened some corrosion in your radiator and that corrosion might have been sealing it.
Find a radiator shop and take it to them, likely it can be repaired

 

[GojiraFJ60]

The CLR could have loosened some corrosion in your radiator and that corrosion might have been sealing it.
Find a radiator shop and take it to them, likely it can be repaired

Wait wait wait WAIT. This is a brand new radiator I’ve got…as far as I’m aware, it’s fine. And on another note, I didn’t get much of anything out of the radiator (or the block plug) when I ran some distilled water through the system. So I don’t “think” there’s a problem there.

Again…I was just wondering if it was normal to see steam being released from the radiator plug when I drained the CLR/water mixture.