- Thread starter
- #121
Water Pump roadblock.
- Thread starter GojiraFJ60
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- Thread starter
- #122
Putting new bolts back in. Standby…
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- Thread starter
- #123
All bolts apart from the one my thumb is pointing to went in just fine.
As for the “odd one out”, the moment I try to thread it in, it gets caught. And as an aside; I gave it a slight nudge with my ratchet, it’s free for a few more hand turns, then it reaches the bottom and screws in tight like the rest.
As for the “odd one out”, the moment I try to thread it in, it gets caught. And as an aside; I gave it a slight nudge with my ratchet, it’s free for a few more hand turns, then it reaches the bottom and screws in tight like the rest.
- Thread starter
- #124
I thought I had something. Nevermind…
One’s “loose” again.
I put the housing back on and all seemed fine.
The bolt in the back on the right hand side started to give. I took the housing off and peeped in the hole:
One’s “loose” again.
I put the housing back on and all seemed fine.
The bolt in the back on the right hand side started to give. I took the housing off and peeped in the hole:
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Yes, that's the problem with brittle 40-year-old aluminum... The threads strip out. It's common.
- Thread starter
- #126
It seems to be two holes like this. It’s weird. I’ll take the thread chaser and chase them out, clean, re-insert, and they’ll take the bolts FINE.
Let me try something.
- Thread starter
- #128
From the look of it, I might just need a new housing…I’m just spinning tires right now lol. Unless there’s a way I can fix this thread situation…which doesn’t seem likely…
Do you need to keep your smog equipment for the area where you are?
As far as the lower housing there are a couple different ways you can go:
There are 'Thread Repair' kits (Helicoil) that are not expensive, maybe $15-35, but it will require you to drill out the existing hole, retap with included larger tap that comes in the kit, then install insert for correct M8x1.25 thread. There are plenty of Youtube vids on how to do it. Not hard, but I'd watch the vids if you've never done it before.
Or, Get a new lower housing.
This is a reproduction lower housing of very high quality.
Get a used housing, but I've found it's very difficult to get those plastic valves (BVSVs) out of the lower housing without breaking them.
As far as the lower housing there are a couple different ways you can go:
There are 'Thread Repair' kits (Helicoil) that are not expensive, maybe $15-35, but it will require you to drill out the existing hole, retap with included larger tap that comes in the kit, then install insert for correct M8x1.25 thread. There are plenty of Youtube vids on how to do it. Not hard, but I'd watch the vids if you've never done it before.
Or, Get a new lower housing.
This is a reproduction lower housing of very high quality.
New FJ60 Thermostat Lower Housing Toyota Land Cruiser 2F 16331-61032
2F lower thermostat housing for FJ60's requiring smog sensors from 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986 1987 Toyota Land Cruisers 16331-61032 temperature probe port FJ60 FJ45 FJ47 FJ40 FJ43 ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT HOUSING NEW 8/1980- 87
www.therustfarmers.com
Get a used housing, but I've found it's very difficult to get those plastic valves (BVSVs) out of the lower housing without breaking them.
- Thread starter
- #130
I personally don’t know (with regards to the smog equipment, or maybe I don’t understand the question…)Do you need to keep your smog equipment for the area where you are?
As far as the lower housing there are a couple different ways you can go:
There are 'Thread Repair' kits (Helicoil) that are not expensive, maybe $15-35, but it will require you to drill out the existing hole, retap with included larger tap that comes in the kit, then install insert for correct M8x1.25 thread. There are plenty of Youtube vids on how to do it. Not hard, but I'd watch the vids if you've never done it before.
Or, Get a new lower housing.
This is a reproduction lower housing of very high quality.
New FJ60 Thermostat Lower Housing Toyota Land Cruiser 2F 16331-61032
2F lower thermostat housing for FJ60's requiring smog sensors from 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986 1987 Toyota Land Cruisers 16331-61032 temperature probe port FJ60 FJ45 FJ47 FJ40 FJ43 ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT HOUSING NEW 8/1980- 87www.therustfarmers.com
Get a used housing, but I've found it's very difficult to get those plastic valves (BVSVs) out of the lower housing without breaking them.
Do you need to get a smog test every couple years, more or less, to register the truck?
- Thread starter
- #132
Oh. I don’t believe so; I’ll have to go look at Georgia’s requirements (I don’t readily have it in my head). My other vehicle’s a 2000 Camry and I think last year was the last year that I had to get emissions done on it.
Ok, I'm just guessing here at your situation, but if you get a new lower housing you will need to either swap the pink and violet plastic valves over, and that's very difficult to do without breaking them, or block them off with supplied plugs, but that opens up large can of worms removing the rest of the smog equipment -
Maybe others can chime in here because I don't know how the truck will run with simply plugging the lines to those pink and violet BVSVs. I have to have all smog equipment installed and functional here in Los Angeles.
If you're sure you can't get the Top housing to tighten down, then I would suggest trying to fix the buggered holes in the lower housing with a complete thread repair kit. All you will need is a drill if you get a kit that comes with everything else necessary.
You've got nothing to lose by trying, except some time and $20
Maybe others can chime in here because I don't know how the truck will run with simply plugging the lines to those pink and violet BVSVs. I have to have all smog equipment installed and functional here in Los Angeles.
If you're sure you can't get the Top housing to tighten down, then I would suggest trying to fix the buggered holes in the lower housing with a complete thread repair kit. All you will need is a drill if you get a kit that comes with everything else necessary.
You've got nothing to lose by trying, except some time and $20
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- Thread starter
- #134
Just to follow up. I did a quick check for Georgia; I don’t need smog/emissions (as of 2025) for anything before 2001.
- Thread starter
- #136
- Thread starter
- #137
I’m currently corresponding with Matt about a new lower, however I’m not particularly opposed to trying to fix what I currently have.
Has anyone here had success repairing threads in general? Not specific to my current problem.
I have had success using helicoil to repair threads. Not on a thermostat housing though but on an 80 series engine block that holds the exhaust manifold on.
If I were in your shoes, I'd try to repair the threads with a helicoil and use carb studs in the lower housing. That way they stay put forever. You'd have nuts to loosen on the top when you'd need to change out the thermostat and gasket.
I did it on my 40 years ago and it's hold strong. Here's the 40 version. You'd need 4 studs and nuts for the 60 series.
Here is the carb stud that I used, it's the shiny one on top. Was just comparing it to another stud in the pic.
Not sure on the nut part number, I think I had those laying around. There may be a part number in a thread in the 40 section.
As far as removing the valves on the housing, use an O2 sensor socket. It has a slot on the side that will keep clear the plastic vacuum nipples. Use penetrating oil first then heat up the housing.
Cut off the vacuum hoses before all of this then after removal you can get the remnants of hose off the valves. Carefully get a pick under the vacuum line and carefully go around to loosen the hose from the nipple. Don't pry even the slightest or they will break.
Also, get another housing and keep as a spare.
If I were in your shoes, I'd try to repair the threads with a helicoil and use carb studs in the lower housing. That way they stay put forever. You'd have nuts to loosen on the top when you'd need to change out the thermostat and gasket.
I did it on my 40 years ago and it's hold strong. Here's the 40 version. You'd need 4 studs and nuts for the 60 series.
Here is the carb stud that I used, it's the shiny one on top. Was just comparing it to another stud in the pic.
Not sure on the nut part number, I think I had those laying around. There may be a part number in a thread in the 40 section.
As far as removing the valves on the housing, use an O2 sensor socket. It has a slot on the side that will keep clear the plastic vacuum nipples. Use penetrating oil first then heat up the housing.
Cut off the vacuum hoses before all of this then after removal you can get the remnants of hose off the valves. Carefully get a pick under the vacuum line and carefully go around to loosen the hose from the nipple. Don't pry even the slightest or they will break.
Also, get another housing and keep as a spare.
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- Thread starter
- #139
I actually didn’t have a problem taking the hoses off/puttin them back on the nipples when I the lower housing off; the space is small/awkward, but I managed…still though, definitely have to be careful.
I can get an O2 socket from Harbor Freight; I’ll just need to figure out what size I need, so that shouldn’t be a problem.
Right now it’s really just a matter of “Do I get a brand new housing entirely” or “Fixing the one I have”. It’s definitely more “cost effective” to fix the one I have, since it’s 1-2 holes that seem to need repairing (I could probably go through and fix all 4 of them). At the same time, I’m not trying to be cheap here either…I’ll already have to “walk back” and undo work I’ve done with the original lower…either way it’ gonna have to come off anyway.
Matt won't steer you wrong. Get the new one from him and rebuild yours as a spare.
You will find that having spare parts on hand for a 40+ year old vehicle will come in handy.
You will find that having spare parts on hand for a 40+ year old vehicle will come in handy.