Water Pump roadblock.

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Currently looking over this thread chaser set from LANG. I don’t have anything to measure the thread on my new bolts, so…I’m kind of eyeballing it. I almost started with this current chaser but stopped myself. This looks like the right one. I was trying to do a bit of a side-by-side comparison.

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GojiraFJ60 said:
Currently looking over this thread chaser set from LANG. I don’t have anything to measure the thread on my new bolts, so…I’m kind of eyeballing it. I almost started with this current chaser but stopped myself. This looks like the right one. I was trying to do a bit of a side-by-side comparison.

View attachment 4055495
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Put the bolts facing opposite directions and nest the threads together. It’ll be obvious if they aren’t a match.
 
What year is your truck? And as far as you know, it's the original engine?

I'm asking because at some point, I forget the exact date, the water pump bolts went from an m10 x 1.5 to an m10 1.25 thread.

BY HAND - no wrench or ratchet- Try and thread those into the holes the one with the proper thread will go with little resistance. The one with the wrong pitch, will bind quickly, just after a turn or two.

FWIW, you can get these cheap thread pitch gauge off amazon to help identify

AMAZ LINK

I have a set of THESE
 
Spike Strip said:
What year is your truck? And as far as you know, it's the original engine?

I'm asking because at some point, I forget the exact date, the water pump bolts went from an m10 x 1.5 to an m10 1.25 thread.

BY HAND - no wrench or ratchet- Try and thread those into the holes the one with the proper thread will go with little resistance. The one with the wrong pitch, will bind quickly, just after a turn or two.

FWIW, you can get these cheap thread pitch gauge off amazon to help identify

AMAZ LINK

I have a set of THESE
Click to expand...
‘84 and it is the original engine as far as I’m aware. But I do know what you’re referring to there because CruiserMatt didn’t get that info from me as well (I forgot), and he sent both ‘84 and 85+ bolts for that exact reason.

Nonetheless though, they are 1.5s though and I’ve already chased the threads…

The one hurdle I’m sitting at right now before I put everything back together is, I want to flush the head and block. I’ve got some CLR, but I don’t have a hose/spicket nearby (I live in an apartment complex) so I’m trying to find an alternative. There is an on-site laundry room I can probably use as a water source, but I’m gonna need some serious hose length. Definitely not 200ft, but not less than 100 either.
 
I just finished reinstalling the lower half of the tstat housing and got some initial head/block flushes going. I’m probably gonna do more but the CLR and water mix suggested to me by @CruiserTrash seems to be working. It’s not disastrously filthy, but it is nasty in there.

Also @S.CarolinaFZJ80 I believe that was you that mentioned applying some sealant to one of the water pump to block bolts that’s by the SMOG pump. I circled one in the photo here, if you can confirm.

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I don't remember which WP hole, if any, open into coolant passage. But if you haven't buttoned it up yet, any of those threaded holes that open into the water jacket need sealant on the threads. This will be in the FSM, if necessary.
 
Spike Strip said:
I don't remember which WP hole, if any, open into coolant passage. But if you haven't buttoned it up yet, any of those threaded holes that open into the water jacket need sealant on the threads. This will be in the FSM, if necessary.
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OKAY, hold on, I’m gonna need a break down of terms here LOL.
First off…when you say, “button up”, what does that mean?
And next, “water jacket”. 😵‍💫

And am I looking at the wrong FSM?
I’ll include a screenshot of what I’m looking at, that I found here on Mud.

IMG_7794.webp
 
GojiraFJ60 said:
OKAY, hold on, I’m gonna need a break down of terms here LOL.
First off…when you say, “button up”, what does that mean?
And next, “water jacket”. 😵‍💫

And am I looking at the wrong FSM?
I’ll include a screenshot of what I’m looking at, that I found here on Mud.

View attachment 4057377
Click to expand...
"button up" means you've finished the project.

"water jacket" are the internal passages inside the block and head where the coolant flows.

That's the right manual.
 
😁

'Button up', just meaning if you have not already installed the WP, yet.

Yes, that is the correct FSM

'Water Jacket' is the open spaces in the block that hold coolant and surround the cylinders.

I looked in that FSM and didn't see anything about sealing the bolts.

If the holes for the water pump are blind, meaning they stop in metal, you just need anti-seize. If the hole opens into where the coolant is, you need sealant so the coolant does not weep past the threads....

Opps, you got the answer sooner :)
 
CruiserTrash said:
"button up" means you've finished the project.

"water jacket" are the internal passages inside the block and head where the coolant flows.

That's the right manual.
Click to expand...

Spike Strip said:
😁

'Button up', just meaning if you have not already installed the WP, yet.

Yes, that is the correct FSM

'Water Jacket' is the open spaces in the block that hold coolant and surround the cylinders.

I looked in that FSM and didn't see anything about sealing the bolts.

If the holes for the water pump are blind, meaning they stop in metal, you just need anti-seize. If the hole opens into where the coolant is, you need sealant so the coolant does not weep past the threads....

Opps, you got the answer sooner :)
Click to expand...
Okay! Got it. I was saying to myself, “Hold up now, I ain’t been around the block for too long now; getting hit with these new terms.”
🤣

In any case though, I haven’t finished; I was mainly waiting to hear back before I proceeded and might have to go back and correct something.

From my understanding, all those holes are blind. I never saw them leaking prior to this project either, so I’d assume I’m good to go.
 
GojiraFJ60 said:
Okay! Got it. I was saying to myself, “Hold up now, I ain’t been around the block for too long now; getting hit with these new terms.”
🤣

In any case though, I haven’t finished; I was mainly waiting to hear back before I proceeded and might have to go back and correct something.

From my understanding, all those holes are blind. I never saw them leaking prior to this project either, so I’d assume I’m good to go.
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Take something skinny and long - a wood chopstick or a screwdriver or whatever - and put it in the bolt holes. See if it comes out into the interior of the engine. Get your phone camera down there if your head won't fit too.
 
CruiserTrash said:
Take something skinny and long - a wood chopstick or a screwdriver or whatever - and put it in the bolt holes. See if it comes out into the interior of the engine. Get your phone camera down there if your head won't fit too.
Click to expand...
I actually had used some q-tips lying around under the hood that I was using to clean up nooks and crannies. I poked some of them into the holes when I was doing some flushes yesterday. I believe there’s 1 that actually reached into the interior, but I’ll have to check again.

I got the pump on and I forgot to put the anti seize on the bolts (even though it was in my pocket 🙄), so I’ll just have to do it tomorrow after the sealant does its thing. That should be fine, yeah?

IMG_7798.webp
 
GojiraFJ60 said:
I actually had used some q-tips lying around under the hood that I was using to clean up nooks and crannies. I poked some of them into the holes when I was doing some flushes yesterday. I believe there’s 1 that actually reached into the interior, but I’ll have to check again.

I got the pump on and I forgot to put the anti seize on the bolts (even though it was in my pocket 🙄), so I’ll just have to do it tomorrow after the sealant does its thing. That should be fine, yeah?

View attachment 4057550
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I think a little sealant on the one bolt going into the water jacket. Anti-seize on the four bolts that hold the t-stat housing together.
 
No. Don't loosen the bolts once they've been torqued down. You risk breaking the seal of the RTV. Not a big deal not having the anti-seize. Most people don't use it and hopefully you won't have to replace that water pump again for a long long time.
 
Spike Strip said:
No. Don't loosen the bolts once they've been torqued down. You risk breaking the seal of the RTV. Not a big deal not having the anti-seize. Most people don't use it and hopefully you won't have to replace that water pump again for a long long time.
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I suppose that’s fair. It was my own fault anyway…Once I “fit” the pump onto the block and tried testing the one of the bolts to make it lined up with the holes, it didn’t and I went into a bit of a scramble trying to make sure they all fit…only after I was done: “And I forgot to put the anti seize on!” LOL.
But I won’t touch it.

Looking at the FSM, and if I was correct, it called for a torque rating of between 20-30 ft-lb on the class 5T bolts. I set my torque wrench to 30 but I stopped just around 27 or so.
 
Good morning/afternoon, fellas.

I’ve seemed to run into a problem.
I started putting the tstat housing back together (top half) and I get to the bolts. Applied anti seize and everything. 1/4 bolts did not want to screw in. Took it out, cleaned up the hole with some WD40, and noticed some metal and some of the sealant (I guess I put too much) coming up. So I went and chased the threads. Cleaned up the housing of some of that excess sealant; bolts too. Now it’s 3/4 that aren’t screwing properly. And at this point, I’m getting slightly agitated.
 
The other thing I want to note is that I even tried putting the bolts in without the top half of the housing and they went in just fine…I’m not sure what’s going on and I don’t think I have too many chances left; I don’t want to ruin my gasket.
 
No advise other than when I start to get agitated is when I break things by pressing ahead.
Maybe take a breather and reattack later.

Also, I have battled this with my 40 and needed a replacement thermostat housing. That aluminum is easy to mess up the threads

Here's one for sale for cheap.
R.K.

For Sale Thread 'N.C. - FJ60 2F thermostat housing'

Thermostat housing from an FJ60 2F for sale. Good condition.

$50 plus shipping

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