Water Pump roadblock.

[GojiraFJ60]

“ I don’t want to do this truck a “disservice”. If I know I can do “more” or “better”, why not.”

You’re gonna go far kid. Just keep the stamina up because there’s about 15 projects like this waiting in line behind the WP.

LOL @ 15 projects. Tell me ABOUT IT.

 

[GojiraFJ60]

Clean those threads out real well as Spike Strip said and clean up the mating surface too.
If the bolts don't thread in smoothly consider carefully chasing the threads. Then flush them again.
View attachment 4052549

Here's the water pump backplate removed with FIPG added for your reference.View attachment 4052550

If you are careful with the removal of the plate, you can reuse the gasket.
Hope this helps. Keep the wrenching up. It will be worth it.

I do want to ask with regards to the thread chaser (I’ve never used one), would it be better to do that by hand as opposed to using a power tool?

 

[Spike Strip]

No power tool. Use with a ratchet so you can feel if it's binding, then back it out and clean it off, then reinsert

 

[GojiraFJ60]

No power tool. Use with a ratchet so you can feel if it's binding, then back it out and clean it off, then reinsert

10-4, thanks.

 

[GojiraFJ60]

I will be picking up my thread chaser and vessel screwdrivers today.
But right here I want to ask yet another question: As pictured, this is a new TSTAT seal…the old one was pretty bad, as you’d expect. I’m wondering though, does anybody suggest that I apply any sealant on the seal itself, or do I just leave it as is…

 

[Lead Head]

I would not put any sealant inside the thermostat housing. A little bit of leakage inside that location would just result in slightly longer warmup times.

 

[Spike Strip]

That round rubber gasket that sits on top of the thermostat goes on dry. Maybe clean up the contact surface inside the thermostat housing a little bit, if you can.

You can use a thin smear of the same RTV you used on the water pump on the paper gasket that goes between the lower and upper thermostat housing, only.

 

[GojiraFJ60]

That round rubber gasket that sits on top of the thermostat goes on dry. Maybe clean up the contact surface inside the thermostat housing a little bit, if you can.

You can use a thin smear of the same RTV you used on the water pump on the paper gasket that goes between the lower and upper thermostat housing, only.

Got it. I was just curious if it was something extra to do; “preventative measures” so to speak…

 

[Spike Strip]

You got it. Better ask now than redo it later.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

You could use some Napa Aluminum Brightener to clean up that thermostat housing.

 

[CruiserTrash]

You could use some Napa Aluminum Brightener to clean up that thermostat housing.

I would definitely surface the mating halves of the t-stat housing there. Lay some 400 grit sandpaper on a flat hard surface - a solid table, a big piece of glass, stone countertop, etc. Move the mating surface over the sandpaper in a circular motion. Not too much, but enough to get the corrosion off and maybe take out any small pits. If there are large pits you can do a skim coat of JB Weld and then sand it all back flat on a second pass.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Good point @CruiserTrash.
The JBWeld trick works good for the coolant hard pipe ends too.

Sand down and a respray and they will be good for many years to come.
The JBWeld may need a couple of cycles of coat, dry & sand to fill in all the pits.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Good point @CruiserTrash.
The JBWeld trick works good for the coolant hard pipe ends too.View attachment 4054955

Sand down and a respray and they will be good for many years to come.
The JBWeld may need a couple of cycles of coat, dry & sand to fill in all the pits.
View attachment 4054954

Yep, good call. I’ve used it on pipe ends before too!

 

[GojiraFJ60]

Clean those threads out real well as Spike Strip said and clean up the mating surface too.
If the bolts don't thread in smoothly consider carefully chasing the threads. Then flush them again.
View attachment 4052549

Here's the water pump backplate removed with FIPG added for your reference.View attachment 4052550

If you are careful with the removal of the plate, you can reuse the gasket.
Hope this helps. Keep the wrenching up. It will be worth it.

I’m about to apply the sealant on the pump in just a moment. I am going to reuse the gasket; should I put any sealant on the inside of the plate where the gasket is going?

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Yes just a skim coat on both side of the gasket between the pump and back plate.

Then a skim coat on both sides of the gasket between the backing plate of the pump and the engine block as shown.

Note I used a bit much on this pump. I took a bit off before installing

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

One of your bolt holes for the pump to block goes into the cooling Chanel I believe. It should be the one closest to the smog pump. If it does, that bolt will need sealant on it too.

 

[GojiraFJ60]

One of your bolt holes for the pump to block goes into the cooling Chanel I believe. It should be the one closest to the smog pump. If it does, that bolt will need sealant on it too.

The smog pump is down there right underneath the Alternator isn’t it…unless I’m looking at the wrong diagram.

 

[CruiserTrash]

The smog pump is down there right underneath the Alternator isn’t it…unless I’m looking at the wrong diagram.

Under the power steering pump. Driver side, down low, two large (1.5”?) diameter hoses coming off the back.

 

[GojiraFJ60]

Under the power steering pump. Driver side, down low, two large (1.5”?) diameter hoses coming off the back.

Ah got it.
What I was referring to earlier was what I thought the A/C compressor. I thought I might’ve just been proven wrong LOL.

 

[GojiraFJ60]

As an aside, I wanted to show my “handiwork” so far with the sealant and gasket. I applied sealant on the back plate, put the gasket on, applied sealant to the pump, lined everything back up and screwed the plate back on.