Builds Warhorse-LS3 C&C & more (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Thank you
 
I installed the rubber door loom. Part number for the loom is shown, I get them from Summit.
Link for grommets

67540264_2590631154301093_2705175998810292224_n.jpg

67403519_2590631094301099_519420872193212416_n.jpg

67371667_2590631194301089_1816766652197371904_n.jpg
 
Having "engineered" something a little less professional for my recent door lock mod, I have been and continue to be consistently amazed at your resourcefulness and professionalism at resolving these details. Thanks for sharing.
 
Thank you Dick, you are truly too kind. I am fortunate to be in a position where I am forced to find answers to questions that we all (60/62 owners) face sooner or later. I learn something new on every build, more often many things new. I share them here because I know how hard some of these things are to find once the OEM solution is no longer available. In this case I like the solution better than the old grommet and taped wire I find on them when they get to me. If something I post can help someone get closer to the truck of their dreams, cool. :cool:

Edit:
When you run wire through the rubber looms,
-remove the loom from the door side
-run the wires through loom
-run wires through hole in door
-insert loom back in grommet

Or you can try to get your wires to turn those corners in place, no waaaaaay!
 
Thank you Dick, you are truly too kind. I am fortunate to be in a position where I am forced to find answers to questions that we all (60/62 owners) face sooner or later. I learn something new on every build, more often many things new. I share them here because I know how hard some of these things are to find once the OEM solution is no longer available. In this case I like the solution better than the old grommet and taped wire I find on them when they get to me. If something I post can help someone get closer to the truck of their dreams, cool. :cool:

Edit:
When you run wire through the rubber looms,
-remove the loom from the door side
-run the wires through loom
-run wires through hole in door
-insert loom back in grommet

Or you can try to get your wires to turn those corners in place, no waaaaaay!
Last time I did this I actually took and old metal coat hanger, bent the ends so they would not puncture the rubber and used that to route through the loom. Works great for me because you can see/bend the hanger easily for the bend in the loom and then pull everything through, kinda like a wallfish tape.
 
The last time I searched for vents it took a while to find two in decent shape. One out of four had both mounting tabs intact, two with one broken and one with both gone. I made up a jig, covered with sandwich bag and layed up epoxy fiberglass, 14 layers to get thickness desired. Cut to shape.



69462115_2629208290443379_142679943149518848_n.jpg

69136921_2629208337110041_6667618989654409216_n.jpg

68750710_2629208420443366_1724780272467050496_n.jpg
 
It seems almost everything we add to our trucks has electrical requirements. Most do not require much in the way of Amps but need one to all of Batt power, IGN power, ground and dash lights. It does not take long to have a dozen items with power needs. I solve this by using bus bars in the kick panel and fire wall. There are four, all leads are labeled as to hook up and what that particular lead(s) is powering on the other end of the harness.

All wiring is stand alone. There are two connections to the OEM harness, both fire relays. One relay converts Batt power to IGN power and is fired by the OEM IGN circuit. The other fires a relay that converts Batt power to dash lights and is fired by the OEM dash light circuit.

Some of the wires
69832863_2642614609102747_7078899530296459264_n.jpg

69240527_2642614709102737_6445699395269689344_n.jpg

69125078_2642614775769397_534515543344939008_n.jpg

69287378_2642614872436054_3776982008035540992_n.jpg
 
What headlights did you put in?
 
I was able to get the dash all back together. Everything is wired with connectors so pulling it all apart is pretty straight forward. There are even provisions for pwr/grnd/lights if a switch ever gets put in that blank to the left of OEM switches.

70480548_2666738510023690_661892049867374592_n.jpg

70644203_2666738583357016_2562091207748485120_n.jpg

69815728_2666738666690341_2107973767102726144_n.jpg

70425502_2666738746690333_4785382089379807232_n.jpg

69754670_2666738830023658_1083598829778894848_n.jpg
 
Which switches did you use for the accessory panel? Also did you fabricate something custom to mount them to?
 
The switches are Carling V1D2 in this instance. Standard Carling switch size. 5 place Carling style mount made up of two end pieces and 3 intermediate pieces. The juuuuuuuuust fit in the ashtray opening.
 
Sexy dashboard....!!!

Thanks, I really like the 60 dash it is very clean, no frills. The Speed Hut gauges are my favorite, clean.
 
Boots will go in last. My wife makes up a custom twin stick boot to match the Lokar boot.

71351799_2698352123528995_6832437912961810432_n.jpg


Corbeau seats
69849449_2698352190195655_1020794455017390080_n.jpg

70868902_2698352246862316_1942987559114113024_n.jpg

72122686_2698352306862310_1458710901065515008_n.jpg


71899154_2698352360195638_3329836815434645504_n.jpg

71399556_2698352436862297_1971299773075947520_n.jpg
 
Yes it is, houses a double DIN radio in the front. Huge storage behind. Interior light, USB charge ports.
 
E brake is electric.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom