Hello gentlemen...What began as an engine rebuild has turned into an off chassis restoration. I am looking for a complete (24 piece) body mount kit for my '85. I have found kits for 84's and previous but no luck so far other than used (SOR). Maybe have to search individually?? There seems to be three sizes. Any help pointing me in the right direction is greatly appreciated!!! Thanks!
You can still order them new & OEM. Here are the numbers for the cushions themselves but I believe the bolts, washers, and nuts are also available. its all $$$ tho ($350 just for the cushions here). Note, these numbers could be wrong and some are duplicates. This is from a quick search on Parsouq
If you are looking for CAB MOUNTING & BODY MOUNTING Parts for Toyota LAND CRUISER BJ60LV-KK BJ60,HJ60,FJ6# then we advise you to pay attention to the range of our spare parts catalog for Toyota!
This website linked below has all the part numbers. Click on a number next to a part and the Toyota part number will come up.
Copy the part number and enter it into another online toyota parts vender's website to get prices.
On all Toyota drawings, most generic bolts and nuts and washer part numbers are labeled right on the drawing.
Most typical Toyota part numbers are 5 digits with a dash followed by 5 digits.
Hi Don,
Were you able to purchased complete list of Body Mount parts from PartSouq? I want to purchase a complete set as well.
Furthermore, is there a procedure to replace them? I want to clean the chassis/frame and put a protective paint on if the frame is more accessible with the body lifted off the frame.
Hey Mark...here are the invoices...Partsouq lacked a couple items but McGeorge Toyota Online Parts had them... this is from last November so my memory is a little fuzzy but I'm pretty sure everything you'd need is here. It was sort of a pain because bolts, washers, mounts are sold separately and as you see is was expensive as all get out. But everything I bought here worked perfectly. A shop did the work lifting the cabin off the frame, the engine had already been pulled. They told me is was "easy" once the engine was out...but I can't give you first hand knowledge on that. The chassis was is pretty good shape-they did reinforce a couple of areas just in front of where the rear wheels would be. Hope this helps!
Hey Mark...here are the invoices...Partsouq lacked a couple items but McGeorge Toyota Online Parts had them... this is from last November so my memory is a little fuzzy but I'm pretty sure everything you'd need is here. It was sort of a pain because bolts, washers, mounts are sold separately and as you see is was expensive as all get out. But everything I bought here worked perfectly. A shop did the work lifting the cabin off the frame, the engine had already been pulled. They told me is was "easy" once the engine was out...but I can't give you first hand knowledge on that. The chassis was is pretty good shape-they did reinforce a couple of areas just in front of where the rear wheels would be. Hope this helps!
Buena suerte, Mark! I know once you have that chassis off and ready to clean up it'll be a bit more exiting...be sure and check in front of the rear wheel wells...there was a ton of crud built up there over 35 years on both sides of the chassis and some corrosion underneath it all.
Buena suerte, Mark! I know once you have that chassis off and ready to clean up it'll be a bit more exiting...be sure and check in front of the rear wheel wells...there was a ton of crud built up there over 35 years on both sides of the chassis and some corrosion underneath it all.
Hi Don,
I want to cross-reference with factory repair manual. By any chance do you know where I can see the factory recommended steps to replace the Body Mounts. Thank you.
Hi Don,
I want to cross-reference with factory repair manual. By any chance do you know where I can see the factory recommended steps to replace the Body Mounts. Thank you.
Hi Don,
I want to cross-reference with factory repair manual. By any chance do you know where I can see the factory recommended steps to replace the Body Mounts. Thank you.
I did one side at a time. Remove all the nuts from the bottom of the body mounts. Start on the front. Find a place on the body where a long 2x4 will rest on the pinch weld of the body. Use a jack to carefully lift the body off the frame. Once it’s raised enough to slip the old bushings out, remove the bolt from the top (usually inside the cab), replace the rubber and washers, reinstall the bolt but don’t tighten the nut. Repeat this process for all the body mount locations. The tricky part is finding a safe place to lift the body so that you don’t bend or warp the panels. The pinch welds are pretty tough, but be careful none the less. Once you have everything replaced, then go around and tighten everything down. You don’t have to torque it down really tight. Just enough to see the rubber buldge ever so slightly. I used lock tite and a nylon locking nut on all of my mounts. You can do this in a day if you’re handy and you don’t have too many rusty hiccups.
I've used these for 10+ years and they're insanely high quality. The one caveat is that EVERY little vibration in the road, wheels or drivetrain is noticed. Especially in how much the rear view mirrors vibrate now that I have a much more stout arm for it from @NLXTACY. I'm actually considering retaining the 1" lift pucks I got from 4Crawler and going back to OEM rubber body mount bushings to reduce in-cabin vibrations.
They look to be either part of the kit or a separate line item (if parts are ordered separately). I have a body being put on a frame by this weekend and just sourcing body mount bolts in case the dude breaks any....
I just installed the 4Crawler mounts on my 62, and as said, they seem to be of very high quality.
I ordered them long enough ago that I don't recall if I had to order the bolts separate from the mounts, but one thing I did notice is that there were two lengths of bolts included in the kit. The longer ones were coarse thread, and the shorter ones were fine thread. I don't suppose it makes much difference in the end, but until I noticed the different thread types, I could not figure out why some of the nuts refused to thread onto some of the bolts.
4Crawler also use a single nylock nut instead of the stock double-nut system. I much prefer the nylocks for this application.