Want to rent/borrow a knuckle centering tool

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I think I'm prepared. I bet the shims are in the box from Kurt. Have new T.R.E.s and a pickle fork.
Already got to try out my new brass drift, which i love. Even got some cleaning agents. Not my fitst time in this axle, just my first time measuring everything and trying to do it right.

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Yup, shims packs are there!
 
Don’t forget a rubber headed spatula/scoop to dig out the old goop with. You can also use it to push in new moly with. Works great for me.
 
The Tool in action! Taking measurements and making scribes!

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So what does that tool do? I guess I better get a Landcruiser manual, Iam not very good with numbers, need to do mine
What it does is. Y'know them shims what sits on top of the knuckle. And underneath too? Under the steering arm and above the bottom plate? This Tool tells you what shims you need where.
I suck at maths, but this is just the additions and take aways.
 
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How important is it to use this tool if I get the preload right, or does this tool just Make the preload setting easier?
 
I "think" that you could have a correct pre-load if the total thickness of shims needed was met.
This Tool tells you what you need above and below the centerline
Edit: i was thinking that this Tool would make measuring preload unnecessary. But i measured it anyway.
 
I "think" that you could have a correct pre-load if the total thickness of shims needed was met.
This Tool tells you what you need above and below the centerline
In other words, it helps keep the axle centered.
 
Yes, as centered as one can be with only one variable to play with.
Not to be overly argumentative but don't you have shim thickness top and bottom as variables to play with? It's really just assuring those shims result in the right preload while keeping the axle centered.
 
Not to be overly argumentative but don't you have shim thickness top and bottom as variables to play with? It's really just assuring those shims result in the right preload while keeping the axle centered.
Oh let's do be argumentative. This is my first go round with this gizmo and I'm still figuring it out. Got another side still to do.
Yes, exactly, (i think) you have shims above and below and the total adds up to one number (C?)
And the above and below might be different but add up to that number. Theoretically centering the axle in the vertical (?) Plane.
Probably not gonna make a spits worth of difference in the life of our oil seals. But it's fun to try.
 
Not to be overly argumentative but don't you have shim thickness top and bottom as variables to play with? It's really just assuring those shims result in the right preload while keeping the axle centered.

True, the common 4x-7x stuff has top & bottom shims. The 80 Series for example as shims only on the top bearing cap. It's my theory that manufacturing got much more precise and the larger seal can accommodate more deflection. So one simply sets preload with the shims.

In most applications, we start with a .5mm bottom shim and shim the top for preload.
 
@cruiseroutfit if I’m understanding you correctly you put the .5mm shim on the bottom, nothing on the top and test preload with your fish scale. If within spec Bob’s your uncle and you walk away. If not within spec what thickness shim do you start adding to the top to achieve correct spec?

Interests as I just finished my 55 with your kit and I’m gonna start on my 45 with your sumo kit soonish.
 
Oh let's do be argumentative. This is my first go round with this gizmo and I'm still figuring it out. Got another side still to do.
Yes, exactly, (i think) you have shims above and below and the total adds up to one number (C?)
And the above and below might be different but add up to that number. Theoretically centering the axle in the vertical (?) Plane.
Probably not gonna make a spits worth of difference in the life of our oil seals. But it's fun to try.
Thanks buddy. Just thought I’d ask maybe when it’s time to do mine now that you have experience you can help me. For I am a shade tree mechanic, Half Wacked Fab
 
Thanks buddy. Just thought I’d ask maybe when it’s time to do mine now that you have experience you can help me. For I am a shade tree mechanic, Half Wacked Fab
I'd be happy to supervise your next shim-setting.
See one/do one/teach one.
Technical maths question though: do two half-wacked shade tree mechanics add up to one fully-wacked shade tree mechanic or only one 1/4 wacked?
 
@cruiseroutfit if I’m understanding you correctly you put the .5mm shim on the bottom, nothing on the top and test preload with your fish scale. If within spec Bob’s your uncle and you walk away. If not within spec what thickness shim do you start adding to the top to achieve correct spec?

Interests as I just finished my 55 with your kit and I’m gonna start on my 45 with your sumo kit soonish.

Negative. We start with .5mm on bottom and say 1.0mm on top and slowly tighten to torque the steering arm until we get to torque spec OR we exceed pre-load. If we exceed preload before torque on nuts, increase shim total thickness, if we get to torque and pre-load is low, remove shim total thickness. We have the centering tool (both for sale and in our tech boxes) and will occasionally use it if it's all mix/match parts. More specifically we'll just start with the shim thickness's that came out and adjust as need.
 

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